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How Much Paint ?

At the paint stage, finally. I was going to order a gallon of Glasurit single-stage and got to thinking maybe a gallon was too much for a small 911 SC.
How much paint covers a 911 ? Probably 4 or 5 coats ?
Old 05-30-2014, 04:08 PM
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what color ?
any jams getting painted under sides of panels ?
are you using all HVLP or just a HVLP gun ?
are you using a sealer 1st going wet on wet ?
are you painting the car with the bolt on panels off the car at a different time ?
Old 05-30-2014, 05:07 PM
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Color - orange
911 SC conversion to wide body
Door jambs and under hood painted a few weeks back. Panels are on the car.
Tea tray wing needs to be painted (disassembled) / front spoiler needs paint too.
Primered with epoxy primer, wait a few days, sand then paint same day.
Painting with an HVLP gun only.
Old 05-30-2014, 06:24 PM
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because colors like yellow reds and oranges are pore hiding colors and the color of the under coats will change the color of the top coats . I would spray a coat of a very light gray sealer down 1st . this will do two things 1st is give a better substrate for the top coat to bite into and the 2nd is give a better uniformed finish for the orange to cover over using less color .

there is a myth that a sealer will give more peal to the finish . this is just not true at all !
this only happens from people that have no idea how to paint doing things like use the wrong tip in the gun , spraying the sealer to dry or to wet . sealers at most is would be two medium coats best is just one medium coat . most sealers you would use a 1.3 tip and cap on the gun .

I would mix a GAL. of color . you should have a little extra when your finished .
but the more little things you paint off the car the more product you will burn up . the reasons why are 1st you will no dough over mix what you need when your paint on average it common to waste about 5 % from that . then there is the over spray just going off into the air on smaller parts . having extra just incase any thing happens like you put a scratch in a panel of have to repaint for any reason . it's one thing when you mix the color your self but when a jobber mixes the color they may over pore a tint so if you ever have the jobber mix more it may not match 100% to what you have .

then your only using a HVLP gun . the problem with that is it burn up more material as it's not really HVLP . to compensate for the smaller air hose fitting and such you will have to bump up the air pressure a little . this pushes more product out of the gun using more material .

you would really only want to spray 3 coats of orange . any more your applying more product then needed . even if your going to color sand and buff you should only be removing about 1/3 of one coat of color by doing that .
if you have to color sand with any thing more then a 1200 grit you did some thing majorly wrong painting . you hear people starting off with 800 or 1000 grit and they keep braking down the sanding grits until they get to 2000 . if this is needed to be done it's best to just repaint the car . all you should need to do is sand out any thing you don't like (dust) with 1500 then sand the rest of the car with 2000 .

because of the links of a epoxy primer being very thigh it's not a good idea to just spray a top coat right over it . it's more then ok to do this on jams and the under sides of panels but not really on the outter panels . the reason is if a stone hits the finish it will chip much easier with just a epoxy primer as your under coat . when you sand a OE finish you will see there are two under coats used and this is why . one is a e-coat primer and one is a sealer .
Old 05-30-2014, 07:20 PM
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962porsche-your expert advice, once again, is just what a semi-skilled amateur (me) needs for success. I've read many of your posts two and three times. Thank you.
Old 05-30-2014, 08:10 PM
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Thanks 962porsche for such clear and expert advice.
Old 06-02-2014, 08:05 PM
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I once painted my car in the drive way,...using a cheap 50.00 gun from sears,...very early in the morning,...sprayed 3 coats of a single stage guards red.I was very very surprized to find that it went ok,...and the paint actually turned out nice,..a little sand and buff,...and my driver was painted,..prep and technique worked out for me,..one run and a little bit of orange peel that I could buff out,..it was fun and nerve racking all at the same time...!!!!!!!!
Old 07-18-2014, 05:18 PM
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2 quarts of GOOD paint will do a 911. Keep in mind any decent paint is going to reduce 2:1 so those 2 quarts ends up being a gallon once reduced. 3 quarts if you want to be safe and have a bit left over, that's jambs and all. If you cheap out and use mid level or less paint, then yes, a gallon mayh be needed and the color match will be far from perfect. The last time I bought a gallon for anything it was an 84 300 TD and I had a quart left over. I'm not trying to get into a pissing match, but a sealer coat will most certainly leave a trace of orange peel, I don't care how good you are. After all, you are spraying liquid droplets. EVERY coat you lay down will leave some peel. In the real world that bit of peel will leave a factory orange peel look even after the clear is slicked out and buffed. Think of it as a glass table top on gravel. You are seeing the peel under the clear. In the world of really high end work, you would never seal and shoot base wet on wet. the final primer gets wet sanded to 600 then the color goes on. 400 grit if it's single stage.

On the cheap vs expensive paint subject. The difference is the number of toners used. Cheap paints have lower quality pigments, and the formulas will use many fewer pigments than the higher end. For example ( not exact, just an example ) Guards red in Omni may only have 2-3 tines, Shopline may have 5-6 tints and PPG Deltron may have 7-8 ( again this is just an example, not the actual numbers )

MOST of the time for the average job I'll use Shopline as a solid color base and get a good match. Particularly on Vw's and 914's , but NEVER use anything other than Deltron for metallics. Metallics just DO NOT match when you drop down to the cheaper stuff, znd quite frankly you don't end up saving much $$ since you have to buy twice as much paint
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:24 AM
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Now that the job is complete, I would recommend a few things to be considered:
--- color (mine was orange. Yellow would be in the same category)
--- changing car color ? Add jambs and under hoods
--- evenness of the undercoat. I sprayed on a white sealer.
--- air supply volume to support a true HVLP (mine was marginal)
--- amount of parts off the car
--- experience of the sprayer. I'm a novice and had lots of overspray

I was "all the above". Two quarts could be done by a pro. I needed 3 (but I bought a gallon), and it left me ample extra to allow for touch ups for polishing or whatever. Since colors are never the same when purchased later, I was comfortable having a little extra.
For reference, paint quality was high - Glasurit 22 Line (single stage)

Last edited by Drbraunsr; 08-01-2014 at 08:41 AM..
Old 08-01-2014, 08:34 AM
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that's great you got it done .
are you happy with the way she came out ?
like you said having some extra color is a good thing . years from now if you get chips in the bumper or what ever you can repaint it with out any worry of a color match .
it would be best if you pour the extra paint into a QT can and cap it tight . that way the paint will last longer if there is less air in the can .
be sure to label it so you have all the info if you need it later on .
Old 08-01-2014, 06:26 PM
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Happy = yes. The parts sprayed off the car are perfect. The car though has a little more orange peel, but with my lack of experience is OK.
Started wet sanding with 1500 and 3M compound / glaze with good results but a ton of work and time.
Is dry sanding with a short throw DA, to get the majority down with some follow up wet sanding 1500 or 2000 OK ?
I've read your other posts, but would like to reduce the time by using a DA sander and not sacrifice the end result too much.
Old 08-02-2014, 07:16 AM
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a tight orbit DA dry works good to knock down the peal .
they also have wet ultra fine DA paper that also works good to do the same thing .

once your done with the da sanding you can go over it with wet by hand with 1500 or 2000 .
that depends more on what compound you are going to use . if it's a cutting compound you can just use 1500 .

time in wet sanding and buffing is one thing most customers totally over look . it's not until you do it your self is when people will understand the work it takes to do it and have it come out right .
Old 08-02-2014, 11:50 AM
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