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47silver's Avatar
 
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hvlp fuji turbine painting

using a turbine type sprayer for the suspension etc,,, thanks to 962porsche for paint advice i think that they parts came out pretty good.






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Old 06-15-2014, 03:27 PM
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the parts come out dam good !
Old 06-15-2014, 04:29 PM
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sprayer

i used spray guns years ago this one is fantastic, i adjusted it once and did not have a run, the overspray is minimal. very pleased
i will post pics of the black parts when we get them done..
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Old 06-15-2014, 05:55 PM
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there are some good pluses to using a set up like this .
the 1st is that they are a true HVLP . unlike just buying a HVPL gun and trying to use it with a regular old non HVLP air lines with and fittings and wondering why it's not working all that well and burning thru a lot of material this set up will not do that .

I used one for years when I was a younger man painting things in my mothers garage . they are worthy looking into if you only have a small compressor that will not supply enough air to supply a full size gun .
Old 06-16-2014, 04:34 AM
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I painted the black parts with rust oleum. Bought some auto paint without a hardener as the paint guys said it might peel away the rustoleum. Will the paint be hard enough?
Old 06-17-2014, 10:18 AM
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you will still be in the same boat if there is not a hardener add to it .
it could lift or peal if you go over a non hardened product .
the reason is the product under is still reversible meaning it turns back to a liquid if a solvent gets on it . then with a hardened shell on the top you don't know just what it will do .
years from now you will find with out a hardener the finish will not hold up . it would be best to strip the non hardened finish off and start over from bare .
Old 06-17-2014, 11:12 AM
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leave it alone then?

would it be better to just leave the rustoleum alone and not cover it with acrylic enamel? the rustoleum has hardened and some parts were painted last year..
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Old 06-17-2014, 11:31 AM
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962, I used the preval sprayer to spray the rustoleum with a reducer. I did not use a spray can. Would that make a difference? I hate to get these 100 pieces sand blasted again
Old 06-17-2014, 06:38 PM
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it will hold up to a point as is .
so to save you time and money I would just leave it alone .
rustoleum as a enamel based product so like all enamels you don't have to have a hardener in it to get the product to harden . but it is solvent sensitive .
being that way and I'm guessing it suspension parts ? brake fluid will eat into it very ez .
again reversible .
being a non hardened product it will also chip much easier then a hardened product .
engine parts with the heat will also tend to resoften non hardened enamels once the motor cools back down it will harden again but the repeated heating and cooling will tend to brake down the links that bond the product to the substrate .

so going over it with any other product will not aid to the bond of the 1st product that was laid down .

if it's a car that only get driven once in a wail on nice days it will be fine for years . but non the less it will only hold up for 1/4 to 1/3 the amount of time a hardened product will .
Old 06-17-2014, 07:40 PM
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suspension parts

to the sandblaster i go
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:28 PM
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sorry I don't like to be the bearer of bad news !

the 1st product you should spray is a catalyzed E-primer on bare metals . that would be a Epoxy or Etch primer . with many E-primers you can do what is called wet on wet .
check to be sure you can with the E-primer you buy as not all E-primers are that way .
wet on wet is you spray the E-primer and let it flash off then go right to your top coat
Old 06-18-2014, 05:20 AM
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so a primer on primer?

962 i will have all of the pieces hanging maybe 40 different pieces,, they will need primered, i will not be able to switch out to the finish coat unless i flip back and forth and between primer and finish that could get ugly. i am using acrylic enamel i will use a hardener..
what would be a good primer that i could paint everything and then
either the next day or a few days later paint the finish coat(S)?

thanks for your info
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:38 PM
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in my shop we use this for just such applications like yours .
it offers great bonding to bare metals and for top coats to bond to it .
EP 789 IS THE BLACK .
because enamels are all compatible with one another (as long as they are in the same family like alkyd with alkyd and acrylic with acrylic ) you can cross over makers or brands with out any troubles un like urethanes were you should not do that .

the down side is I do not know if you have a RM jobber in your area .
so you may want to ask your area jobber if they have a product that will do the same thing as this will .
Old 06-18-2014, 08:01 PM
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spray

so spray on 2 coats of this in quick succession should i sand between or after? or just top coat after it dries?
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Old 06-18-2014, 08:47 PM
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with this all you would do is take the blasted part/parts and spray your two coats left the part/parts flash off for 15 to 20 minutes and then spray your top coats . this is called wet on wet so no sanding is needed .

the EP is a epoxy primer so it will stick like glue to bare metals

I just used this yesterday my friend is restoring his old Honda superhawk and I'm spraying every thing for him . he just got the triple clamps ,swing arm , and frame back from the blaster in the morning took it right to me and with in 3 hours every thing was painted .
I did the wet on wet with the polyuroxy and gloss black limco enamel I just opened the booth and every thing looks great ! I did most of the other parts for him the same way like the fenders and things how ever with them I'm using the limco urethane enamel base clear in a Porsche color # M8W macadamia metallic to match the Porsche he owns of the same color .

the only time you don't want to do some thing like this wet on wet is if there is body filler .
you would 1st want to do your body work and get a filler primer down over you body filler then you could do the polyuroxy and top coat wet on wet .
Old 06-19-2014, 04:44 AM
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thanks

picking the primer up today from the local guy.
same product and application.
2 coats then wait then the primary coat.

should i use a hardener with the finish acrylic enamel?
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Old 06-19-2014, 08:26 AM
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yes you should !
you should always use a hardened product right from the under coats to top coats if you want the finish to be long lasting . with the exception of a base color most of the time there is no real need to harden base coats .
Old 06-19-2014, 10:50 AM
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thanks for the information

thanks again
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:24 PM
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I have a question about painting the strut housings: some people have suggested you shouldn't paint the machined portion where the brake caliper mates to the housing. Should this really be masked off? I would have thought a thin layer of paint would be insignificant.
Old 06-25-2014, 09:46 AM
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strut painting

I would like to know too, as i will have to sand it off.

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Old 06-25-2014, 09:56 AM
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