Paint Accident! Help!

[ROW911SC]

Started reassembling my SC (back from the paint shop less than a month) and accidentally dripped touch up paint on the newly waxed fender! Drip ran and dried before I noticed it, but I was able to remove most of it. Feel like an idiot...

Can I use painter's tape to mask this off and then fine grit sandpaper to smooth it down to the paint level?

Advice on how to knock down the drip and blend/buff much appreciated!

Glasurit single stage, three coats...

[JJ 911SC]

That sucks but "caca" happen...

Just to make sure, (for those who will answer) its only the circle part and not the "white" spots on the photo?

[mreid]

Did you say the fender was waxed? Try using a plastic putty knife to knock it off or scratch it with your finger nail. That paint shouldn't stick very well. Then hit it with some rubbing compound and see if it all comes off.

[962porsche]

if you try and just wet sand it off you will break thru in the area of were you don't want to .

you could try a plastic razor blade . how ever trying to scrape the paint off could scratch it .

because you did not state if you added a hardener to the touch up I'm guessing you did not ??
if you didn't then you could just use some glasurit reducer and it will wipe right off . just don't get the new finish to wet with reducer for to long .
if you did add a hardener t the touch up then I would try either back blading it off with a razor blade or get some old red lead spot putty .
the putty you would want is a lacquer based product only !
spread a light coat over the area then when it's dry sand it with 1500 or 1200 wet or dry paper .
by spreading a coat of the putty you will not be sanding the new good finish so you will not break thru sanding.
you sand until the drip is gone then to remove the red lead that is left you can wipe it off with lacquer thinner . it will take some wiping but it will come off .
never try any of this on non cured paint you will screw it up to no end if you do . to be sure the finish is cured take your finger nail and push it into the finish if any mark is made from doing so then the finish is not cured yet .
the last two options are risky and you have to know what the hell your doing not to screw things up more .

[sugarwood]

What were you touching up on a month old paint job?

[ROW911SC]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

What were you touching up on a month old paint job?

I was using Porsche touch up paint (the kind sold at dealers in the small metal vial w/ brush attached to cap) to hit a few areas inside the front trunk, nothing to do with the newly-painted parts of the car...

[ROW911SC]

Originally Posted by JJ 911SC

That sucks but "caca" happen...

Just to make sure, (for those who will answer) its only the circle part and not the "white" spots on the photo?

Yes, the white spots are just highlights in the photo.

[ROW911SC]

Originally Posted by 962porsche

if you try and just wet sand it off you will break thru in the area of were you don't want to .

you could try a plastic razor blade . how ever trying to scrape the paint off could scratch it .

because you did not state if you added a hardener to the touch up I'm guessing you did not ??
if you didn't then you could just use some glasurit reducer and it will wipe right off . just don't get the new finish to wet with reducer for to long .
if you did add a hardener t the touch up then I would try either back blading it off with a razor blade or get some old red lead spot putty .
the putty you would want is a lacquer based product only !
spread a light coat over the area then when it's dry sand it with 1500 or 1200 wet or dry paper .
by spreading a coat of the putty you will not be sanding the new good finish so you will not break thru sanding.
you sand until the drip is gone then to remove the red lead that is left you can wipe it off with lacquer thinner . it will take some wiping but it will come off .
never try any of this on non cured paint you will screw it up to no end if you do . to be sure the finish is cured take your finger nail and push it into the finish if any mark is made from doing so then the finish is not cured yet .
the last two options are risky and you have to know what the hell your doing not to screw things up more .

As I mentioned the touch up paint is from Porsche, so I don't know if that has hardener in it?

I see what you mean about the putty, basically the same idea as masking off the unaffected area w/ painter's tape, right?

[962porsche]

telling where the paint was bough does not mean you did not add a hardener to it .
if Porsche added hardener the touchup would be hard in the bottle .
so I'm guessing YOU did not add hardener so if the finish on the car is at full cure then you can just wipe the non hardened touchup paint off with some reducer.

[ROW911SC]

Originally Posted by 962porsche

telling where the paint was bough does not mean you did not add a hardener to it .
if Porsche added hardener the touchup would be hard in the bottle .
so I'm guessing YOU did not add hardener so if the finish on the car is at full cure then you can just wipe the non hardened touchup paint off with some reducer.

I did not add a hardener to the Porsche touch up paint, and its not hard in the bottle, and the paint is at full cure, so I'll try the reducer. Thanks!

[ROW911SC]

Was able to get a few ounces of Glasurit Reducer from a local paint/body shop and it worked like a charm. Have a bit of discoloration where the drip was, but I should be able to get that out. Thanks all!

[962porsche]

you can just buff up the area to get the shin back .
paints with out a hardener in them is what's called reversible . meaning the paint will turn back to a liquid state from a solvent .

there was a question asked as to why you would touchup a car with new paint .
there could be a 100 reasons why .
but it's common to touchup the things like heads of bolts after your finished installing fasteners like fender bolts that get painted body color.

we use soft socket inserts but even they don't 100% guarantee you will not chip up a bolt or two .
we media blast the painted bolt heads in the blasting cabinet with glass bead . then use as little product when repainting them . so we use a Epoxy primer mixed as a sealer then go right to top coat . this makes the material in the head of the bolts as thin as it can be and still give very good adhesion for the finish.
there is nothing worse then seeing a nice finish on a car and then to see chipped up fender bolts .
people wonder why some places charge so much for a resto ? this is just one of 1000 reasons why that is .

[ROW911SC]

Originally Posted by 962porsche

you can just buff up the area to get the shin back .
paints with out a hardener in them is what's called reversible . meaning the paint will turn back to a liquid state from a solvent .

there was a question asked as to why you would touchup a car with new paint .
there could be a 100 reasons why .
but it's common to touchup the things like heads of bolts after your finished installing fasteners like fender bolts that get painted body color.

we use soft socket inserts but even they don't 100% guarantee you will not chip up a bolt or two .
we media blast the painted bolt heads in the blasting cabinet with glass bead . then use as little product when repainting them . so we use a Epoxy primer mixed as a sealer then go right to top coat . this makes the material in the head of the bolts as thin as it can be and still give very good adhesion for the finish.
there is nothing worse then seeing a nice finish on a car and then to see chipped up fender bolts .
people wonder why some places charge so much for a resto ? this is just one of 1000 reasons why that is .

What I wonder about is why, after charging so much, some shops let the little details fall through the cracks. The details that can make the difference between good and great. Very happy with the overall quality of my respray, but I've found a few drips and some slight overspray, and am sure the reasoning was, "well, its out of sight and will never be seen." This might be true, but IMO its the worst kind of excuse. I design high end, custom science exhibits for museums, and everything that's out of sight or the back of something is given the same amount of attention as what visitors see and interact with. When you are used to working with this kind of standard for 30+ years, I bet that over 90% of "restoration" shops would fail miserably by my litmus test.

[962porsche]

some is what the car will be used for and other is budget .
there is always the things that you should never cut corners on .
the resto should be at the least of what the car was like new then you start getting into the fine deals like using the same hardware so the bolts and fasteners are the same as OE things like have the wrong bolt heads are not concourse quality .