Rear Deck Lid Alignment
 

I installed the freshly-painted rear deck lid yesterday and it does not clear the body when trying to close it. I have it situated as far as the slots in the hinges will allow. Is there another adjustment point? The hinges themselves? They were removed for painting as well. The shop reinstalled the hinges but not the deck lid. Needless to say, the deck lid fit just fine prior to disassembly and repaint. Nervous about damaging the new paint so any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1422281729.jpg




most likely i's not that you have to move the lid back more but the front of the lid has to come up .
at the factory they use washers / shims on the front two bolts one on each side between the hinge and the lid .
there are different size thickness or shims used for this at Porsche to help gain the proper gaps for the lid .
you may think that raising the front of the lid will not do what you think but it will !
by changing the angle of the lid to the hinge it will pull the lid more forward in the slots where the bolts go thru the hinge it's self .

Thanks for the sketch! So the "front" of the lid is the edge closest to the rear glass, right?

I'll post some pics of the current condition later this evening...

While you're adjusting things, lay down some 2" masking tape along the edges. That will help protect the paint from nicks and scratches.

Yes; using blankets, and painter's tape! Thanks.

it's the bolts that are closest to the rear cowl back glass area or facing the front of the car.
pull off the striker post on the lid if you installed it or you left it on the lid then get the gaps you want .
after that reinstall the striker post and adjust that to latch the lid closed .

if you try and get the gaps right with the striker post in it could be pulling the lid in a direction that you don't want it to making it a real PITA to get the gaps where they need to be .

Perfect timing on this post for me. Thanks 962 for the sketch - I could not figure out why my replacement decklid was rubbing on the rear cowl as it closed - works like a charm with the shims only on the front bolts.

Yes, worked like a charm. Used one stainless steel washer and some tape to create a visual gauge. Then some adjustment in the YAW direction to even all the gaps. Thanks 962porsche!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1422394038.jpg

And new hardware on the way; its amazing how "OK" finishes look absolutely terrible against new paint...

glad it worked out for you .
time for a good detail to bring the old finish back to new looking ?

I've found that Genuine Porsche hardware is often so cheap its not worth the effort to refinish.

very true ! the hardware is low cost for the most part .
the down side is when you need 1000's of nuts and bolts for a job .
we will tend to reanodize the hardware at that point and only replace the hardware that the threads or heads are screw up .
the anodizing kit I bought has paid for it's self 10 times over the cost of the kit was some thing like 3500 dollars years ago but they do have real good kits for the hobbyist around 300 dollars .
that's the cost of just one door latch .
it's not so much the cost of nuts and bolts but when you have latches and strikers with nothing wrong with them but just rust and dirty that's were detailing comes into play .

Great discussion around a pending project......I need to have my deck lid refinished as well. Each paint shop I talk to references water base paint and the need to spray out onto the quarters to blend. In my simple mind, I would think I can get a very close match on my guards red. Here are a couple questions:

1. Does water base paint matter in doing a one panel respray?
2. Can good shops get a very good match on the guards red? Note the PO had a nice glass out respray.
3. Should I stay clear of shops who express the need to spray beyond the decklid to blend in with the rest of the car?

water borne paint is standard now in most US states . that is not to say solvent based coatings are no longer available as they are . the thing with that is collision shops for the most part are not using it .
can red be panel painted not just yes but hell yes !
this comes down to what I have stated god knows how many times the difference between a sprayer and painter .
99% of the shops out there will only hire sprayers as a painter wants twice the money per hour .
that is not to say a sprayer can't lay down a good finish as some can but for the most part when it comes to the other aspects of painting they fall far short .
the sad thing is many sprayer think of them selfs as painter .
so it does not matter if it's water borne or not .
there should be no need for blending the color .
yes stay away from production shops that have to blend into other panels .

1st find a shop that uses Glasurit they have color max (or should have) they are spray out done by BASF for color matching so the shop does not have to do spray outs costing you more money needlessly .
2nd find a resto shop not a collision repair shop .

962porsche..... Always appreciated and thanks again.