What kind of paint should I use??
 

Restoring my 1980sc and wondering if I should stick with glasurit 22 line or go to a base/clear. I have never painted a car with single stage paint before wondering how it is to buff/sand/polish and also if I can just use a good two part epoxy primer

as for to use SS or BC if it's not going concourse then it's up to you .
SS to BC is no harder to color sand and buff it's just different .
the same can be said for applying the two .
when your talking epoxy primer there are many different types and uses of them . more details of just what epoxy your thinking of and or it's use you would need it for would be a help .

I thought about using ppg' shopline epoxy then a 2k primer then using the epoxy as a sealer?? Then an acrylic urethane base coat. Followed by a high voc clear

you no longer can buy high VOC clears because of the national VOC rules .
in fact you can't buy any high VOC products at all . they now are of low VOC .
MOST base coats are of polyester based not acrylic as acrylic based product when it coes to base colors are of lower grade .
they do not hold up as well !
CO's like house of kolor still use acrylic as the cost to reformula all there colors to a better more up to date product is not needed for there product line of coating .

Ok so could you recommend a product line/process to paint my 1980sc. It needs to be taken down to bare metal and sprayed black the original color.

what's the color ?

Color is black I figured I would stay with the original.

more questions .
what is the spraying environment you will be painting in ? your garage ? booth ?

what is your use for the car when finished ? every day driver ? weekend ? cruise nights ? shows ?concourse ?

Not sure where I will be painting but garage is probably a good answer. Just a driver

I would go down to Liquidz auto body supply on Edison st Syracuse .
they are a BASF jobber and should have the RM paint line .
I would use the EP 789 epoxy primer for going over bare metal .
for a filler primer I would use the DP20 .
for a wet on wet sealer you can use the EP 789 .
for base color I would go with Diamont base
and then one of the RM urethane clears .

I would do it in B/C simply because if your not spraying in a booth you may get some dust in the base . if you do you can give it a lite sanding and go back over it with more base .

Thanks for your time appreciate it

One more question what size tips for the epoxy primer,build primer,sealer,base and clear. Was thinking about buying a devil bliss finishline gun with different tips. Can I use a harbour freight purple gun for the primer??

the finish line guns for the price is a very good gun .
a 1.3 or 1.4 will work for the EP , base coat and clear .
a 1.6 to 1.8 will work for the DP primer . 1.7 or 1.8 being best for primer .

just clean the gun real good and you will be just fine using the same one .
a 1.3 would be the best size for a all around ep base and clear gun .

For a home job find the simplest system there is so you aren't buying different hardeners and reducers for each stage.

I hate to plug PPG but they have very user friendly lines with hardeners and reducers (oversimplifying here) that can go from primer to clear.

PPG NCP is an etch primer that can also be a surfacer and also a sealer depending on what is mixed into it. You buy one gallon and mix the appropriate hard/redu in it.

NCP fills fairly nice and sand easily.

I would also go with the single stage as again you are cutting down on product. to me a single stage black always looks the cleanest.

If you don't want to be 100% color match then House Of color also has great system and a really nice black.

Stay away from HF there are low cost guns like CAT that really cut down on overspray and sell in kits with caps and needles to go from prime to color.

Good luck.

I do not agree with to much of what was stated !
basf also crosses the reducers and hardeners .
as for SS saving you any thing NO SS costs the same as BC . you will not save any thing .
as for house of Kolor it's a very out dated product and is of a very low grade . it's acrylic based .
if you want a low cost low grade equal to house of kolor get limco or Omni line .
at least limco is a urethane based product .
being a airbrush artist i have used house of kolor 1000's of time and have there paint system in my shop . all i can really say about there products is they suck .

if you get dust in ss your stuck with it .
does ss offer more depth to colors like black well yes to a point . but there are also big pluses to bc .

i would stick to the finish line or start line guns . there offer very good quality at a very good price . from now to the end of time you will be able to buy parts for it at just about any jobber (automotive paint store )

You mentioned OMNI...

Is it really that bad? Our local paint place carries it, was going to use it for some black touch up and blend...

What makes a paint line a lower grade?

Is it the final appearance? Ease of use? Durability?

Also, what do you think of the paints that EASTWOOD carries? They seem to have great reviews...

Thanks

If I'm doing a bare metal re spray on a targa how much paint will I need?

are you doing the Jams and undersides of lids?

NO it's not that bad ! but it's one of the lowest grade products on the market .

the chemical make up if the product is what determines the paints grade .
Alkyd is the lowest with acrylic being just slightly better .
that does not mean that all acrylic based products are of low grade .
you can have acrylics mixed with other based components like urethane this brings the grade to a much higher level .

calling some thing user friendly is kind of a useless term . I use it my self but it has to do with more then one of the parts of a product .
most people will use the term as being friendly to spray .
this is only one out of many aspects of a product line .
all paint systems will work and be user friendly if you go by the system stick to the system and go by the TDS of the system .


products lke alkyd and acrylic do not and can not offer the same UV protection as say a urethane or polyester .
the biggest reason is the plastic base component of the two urethane and polyester .

one of the cars I own is a rally car when it's not being used it just sits out in the weather . I painted it 10 12 years ago with alkyd enamel the lowest of the low grade paints . the car still looks good and to get it to shin all we do is run the buffer over it .
I also own a 944 track loaner (I let new drivers to the track use) that car also sits out side all the time . I painted it 8 years ago with polyester base urethane clear and to get that car to look good all we do is wash it . it's never needed to be buffed yet .
both cars are dark blue solid colors .

if you own a car that you don't drive much and sits in a garage most of the time in reality you could use a lower grade product . it's not seeing any heavy use or weather . most of the time the owners will keep it clean and by doing so the finish is not going to go thru the same as a car you would be using more .

I own a 1988 countach with the original red acrylic lacquer finish on the car .
there is nothing wrong with the finish at all and still looks as good as it did from day one .
the car just does not see any weather at all and is in a climate controlled garage .
so when some one states they used a lower grade product and it's holding up great . you have to think about the environment the car is seeing .

Thanks for the great reply! Makes sense...

Bo

Yes I'm doing jams and underside of lids

you will burn up color from wasted over spray on little parts like bumpers and such so I would get 3 QT's to start off with . if you would really need another qt you can pick that up later .
a qt of Epoxy primer should also do to start off with .
all you need is one medium coat of that over the bare metal .
a Gal. of filler primer should do for 3 coats of primer over the complete car .
a Gal or clear is all you should need for 2 coats of clear .
if your going to color sand and buff the hole car from top to bottom front to back then plan on one extra coat of clear so you may need one extra QT of clear .

Thanks for your time appreciate it.I'm assuming one quart of sealer as well?

yes sealer is the same one QT .

Hi im doing my car in my Garage at home, so i can give you first hand experience in this if you want to see how theother side does it (amatuer)
I took my 911 to bare metal as i was converting it from cab to coupe and then sprayed the whole car including inside of doors , underbody, engine and bay etc etc, everywhere basically,

Also had to do a lot of welding but thats another story lol
Anyway
I bought Acrylic paint in arrow blue which was original car colour,
good thing when using Acrylic is that if your an amatuer like myself you can easily correct errors and make the end result as perfect as you want it to be, for extra protectioni could have used acrylic clear but i thought not to as i was happy with the finish,

Cost for the job

Primer 6 litres = $75
Arrow Blue 6 Litres $225
Thinners 10 litres $75

So the cost of doing whole car from bare metal cost me under $400 prob add another $50 for wet and dry paper and rubbing compound maybe another $50 for bits like paint strainers and disposable filters
So all up id Say under $500

I dont know anything about hardeners , epoxies etc as discussed here,
i believe that if you put the time into it you can get a concourse condition paint with a Modern single base acrylic if you wanted to.

The application varies so much with different opinions, but the end result is what matters and so far i am more happy with mine,
I applied one day/panel at a time in my garage first i sanded the panel i was going to paint back to bare metal and checked for rust and prev damage lucky there was/is none so far

I dont use any high build primer and wasnt going to use primer at all but decided to give it a coat anyway for extra security of keeping paint stuck to the metal,

i havent painted before and found it quite easy to do once i got the hang of it and watched a couple of youtube vids,

I sprayed primer on Bare Metal that i dry sanded with 320 grit and cleaned with alchohol,
Then did the paint
After 3 to 4 coats of paint i sanded with 1200 wet grit


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1427215098.jpg


Then i buff with cutting compound,

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1427215396.jpg



[I havent gotten around to waxing yet im going to do that when im sure the whole car is finished in case i have to resand an area, easy to do with acrylic if you find a mistake you can redo a section:)

I believe acrylic based paints are the ideal paint to use if doing it yourself at home in the garage, ive had flies land on my bonnet and left foot prints, no problem just sand it out :)

Ive been restoring my car over the last 2 years and have put on about 6000 kays in its current state, as mine is a daily driver and i cant have down time thats why im doing the painting in stages, im able to do a section and use the car the next day


Some people swear by 2 pack and some swear by Acrylic,
I dont believe one is better than the other and both have pros and cons, if anything Acrylic is better for me for the reasons i outlined above and because it wont stink up your garage :) and its underrated so its cheaper,

It must be good because the stuff i bought comes with a 5 year No Rust guarantee, i dont know of any other paints that can give the same written guarantee.

At the end of the day ive saved about 20k and i dont have to wait for weeks or months for my car to be finished by a stranger who god knows what shortcut he may have taken in order to finish the job.

Note* Ive never painted before except a room in a house once with a roller
And i know when im finished it will be showroom condition, (its not hard to do) just some elbow grease,

Still driving with only the one panel rubbed back so far;) (cant do that with fancy paints:p

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1427217462.jpg

Dang - that looks pretty freaking good!! And a great color too.

So what is the opinion for a long hood car staying covered most of the time? BC for ease, or SS for authenticity?

SS and authenticity !

:d