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Ferrino's Avatar
 
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Bonding Fiberglass Tail

I have decided to try to recreate something similar to the factory early Carrera tail (and later Weissach tail), by taking a fiberglass reproduction of the "tail" and bonding it a factory steel decklid. I just happened to stumble across the fiberglass piece below at a swap meet and it fits the profile of the steel decklid very nicely. I was originally going to cut up a complete fiberglass tail, so this saves me a lot of work. I appreciate that this is not precisely how the factory did it (for example, I will be preserving the decklid skin), but externally it should appear the same. I had a few questions:

1. Which 2-part panel adhesive would you recommend for bonding to the decklid? I hear good things about 3M's 08115 product and also SEM's equivalent. Would one of those 200ml packs be enough for the whole tail?

2. The base of the tail has bolts 'glassed into it, so that would help located the tail when bonding and allow it to be tightened while curing. Only issue is that some of the bolts are corroding and I don't want it to spread to the decklid. I'm also unsure if keeping the tail bolted to the decklid (after curing) is a good idea - should a little bit of flexibility be allowed to minimize any cracking?

3. What type of filler would you use to smooth the joints between the tail and the decklid? I have short-strand fiberglass filler and Rage polyester filler. Or can some of the adhesive itself be used and then topped off with polyester filler?

Many thanks!




Old 03-11-2015, 01:09 PM
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Cool find! You will have slightly less bonding area than I had with mine but I do not think that will be an issue.
  1. As we discussed in PMs the 08115 is what I used with my FG-Metal deck lid. After a few years of Florida sun and track days it is still solid as a rock. I think I used about 1/2 a tube. If you go that route and I can find my applicator gun (I just moved and can't find anything) you are welcome to borrow it. The gun is expensive, but worth it if you are using a lot of the stuff like I was later. I used the 08115 to re-glue the top half of my 23ft boat back to the bottom half... That stuff worked great!! So far I have not sunk miles from land
  2. The bolts are a great idea, but if they are already corroding I think I would remove them. You will need a ton of clamps, though, as you will need to provide good even pressure along the perimeter that you are gluing down to the deck lid.
  3. As you put pressure down you should get a good amount of adhesive to squeeze out. While it is still soft you can use your gloved finger to smooth the joint out in a rough manner. After drying, you will probably knock it down with 80 grit and then go to your poly filler. I did use the glue to fill some of the holes I created for fitment post initial bond. It sands/shapes nice. This will begin your iterative process of fill-sand-fill-sand-fill-sand progressively getting lighter in sanding grit until you are satisfied with the results. This is the point where your buddy with 30 years of body and paint experience arrives, puts a finger on your work, and instantly says, "You're not even close to being done, bud!" I might be able to loan you one of those too
Good luck and take lots of pics as you work so we can follow along!
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Old 03-12-2015, 11:28 AM
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Thanks Michael. I wasn't sure if the adhesive had good filling properties (i.e. under filler and paint). Thanks for the offer to borrow the applicator - based on how slow I work, I think I'll just stump up the cash and buy one though. Is this is pairing I need?

3M 08115 Panel Adhesive 3M 08571 Manual Applicator Gun | eBay
Old 03-12-2015, 11:55 AM
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Question: I have some areas on the tail that do not mate perfectly to the steel decklid. In other words, I need to build the bonding surface up a little to get good contact. Could I apply a layer of short-strand fiberglass filler to the fiberglass in order to reduce the gap? The panel adhesive would therefore connect the fiberglass filler to the steel, in those places. From my experience of short-strand fiberglass filler on metal, this stuff seems to stick incredibly well. Or should I build up with fiberglass cloth and resin?
Old 04-13-2015, 04:16 PM
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Why not reduce the high areas of the bonding surface? Wouldn't that be better than building it up?
Old 04-13-2015, 08:42 PM
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Have you considered simulating the actual rubber spoiler by puting a groove along the same line as where the original rubber spoiler met the fiberglass tail, then use some rubber spray (flex seal) for that part?
Old 04-13-2015, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snbush67 View Post
Why not reduce the high areas of the bonding surface? Wouldn't that be better than building it up?
Thanks, but that's not possible in my case. Hard to describe, but I am going to try to make new flanges on the tail to produce bonding surfaces that have an identical profile to the decklid. I'll share some photos if it works out!

Regarding the groove idea - I did consider it. but I think it would be difficult to make a clean line. My plan would be to paint it one color and then add a fake lip with plastidip that would then be removable if it looked cack.
Old 04-15-2015, 11:51 AM
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In that case I don't think it's nessasary to match the surfaces, just use whatever your using to bond it as filler, sand it smooth and be done.

Maybe test paint the plasti dip idea before you put your fresh paint on. I think flex seal would be best.
Old 04-15-2015, 08:52 PM
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is the photo of the car with the black tail what you want this one to look like when it's mounted on your car ?
did you drill the mounting holes yet and place the new tail on the car if so do you have a photo of the gaps your looking to fill ?
Old 04-16-2015, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 962porsche View Post
is the photo of the car with the black tail what you want this one to look like when it's mounted on your car ?
did you drill the mounting holes yet and place the new tail on the car if so do you have a photo of the gaps your looking to fill ?
Yes, I intend it to look like the black tail. I did not drill the mounting holes in the decklid because the bolts that were glassed into the base of the fiberglass tail were rusted and I did not want that to spread to the decklid. I plan to purely bond it on (though I could use bolts to hold it together while the adhesive cures). I ended up removing most of the fiberglass bottom, because most of it does not actually contact the decklid - I think it's just there to hold the tail together when it's bolted on.

My plan is to lay a few layers of chopped strand mat onto my decklid and then place the tail on top while the mat is curing - this should hopefully give me flanges on the tail that will give a nice area for the adhesive to work on. I stole this idea from another user who suggested doing this to bond a ducktail onto a steel decklid. My understanding of panel adhesives is that they can't really fill very large gaps between the 2 surfaces being joined? Like I said, this tail wasn't designed to be bonded - but rather bolted.

I will try to get some pics uploaded to show you what I've done.
Old 04-16-2015, 09:34 AM
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