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Jhogan0101's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Philadelphia PA
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Help with 82' Platinum Metallic Material list

Ive disassembled everything and soda blasted (gently) all to metal.
Can someone suggest and entire material list to complete this to factory specs?
Ive read that glasurit 22 would be appropriate but not sure.
Help would be very much appreciated.
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82' 911SC Targa
Old 07-17-2015, 04:01 PM
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dkbautosports.com
 
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the 1st problem is you sodablasted the car .
now you have to clean the hell out of the surface and sand it with 180 or 220 grit paper .
one problem with soda blasting is 1st the substrate is left to smooth to just apply any thing over with out sanding . 2nd problem is the substrate is now coated with soda and blasting metal pushes the soda into the metal .

once you clean the hell out of the substrate and sand every thing and then clean it again .
you would want to apply 1 and no more then 2 coats of an epoxy adhesion primer like glasurit 801-1871 .
then after it's dry you can do your fuller and metal work over the 801-1871 .
you will have break thrus to bare metal after your filler and metal work is done so you will want to spot in the bare areas again .
once that it dry sand the epoxy primer with 220 grit or 180 . try not to break the thru primer sanding .
once it' sanded blow off the work area wipe down and tack off .
now using glasurit filler primer 285-60 mix and spray 3 to 4 coats max .
after it's dry spray a light coat of a sanding guide coat then sand with 500 to 320 grits . wet sand 500 to 400 or dry 400 to 320 .
then after it all sanded you will need to clean every thing getting painted .
wash the panels with soap and water . dish soap works well for this just be sure it does not have hand softeners or oils in the soap like lanolin and alike.
after it's dried off wipe the panel/s down with a pre paint cleaner like RM's 901 .
when cleaning also be sure to clean the back sides and all the nooks real good . even if your masking off the dirt will still find it's way back out when you start spraying . so clean every thing real good !
after masking it time to wipe down every thing all over again . in my shop we all do a final wipe two or three times always using good clean rags .
wet one rag with the 901 and before it dries on the surface wipe it dry with another clean dry one . as soon a the rag gets dirty at all use a new one .
from the final wipe down on you will always be wearing rubber gloves doing any prep work .
how using a good clean tack rag tack the surface down real good . we will also tack off a panel 5 or 6 times .
now it time for top coating .
you can use a wet on wet sealer the 285-60 tinted to the cars color and mixed as a sealer works great .
spray one coat of sealer and after it flashes off for 15 to 20 minutes you can go right to top coat .
the 22line is a very high quality and is what Porsche uses at the factory .
you would want 2 to 3 coats of the 22 line .
after it's dried for 2 or 3 days if air drying (not baked in a booth) you can color sand and then buff .
when buffing do not sand more then you can buff out that day .
the reason is if you put a ultra fine sand scratch in the finish from sanding and you don't get it buffed out that day it will dry a little more and then will be a ***** to buff it out .


any questions ?
Old 07-17-2015, 06:17 PM
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jchamness
 
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I think 962 overlooked it being metallic. The 22 line is single stage for solid colors. 55 line is available in solid or metallics. Metallics should be clear coated.
Old 07-17-2015, 07:27 PM
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Thanks for the info, if you were to put together a Material list to do this what would you purchase?
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Last edited by Jhogan0101; 07-18-2015 at 10:22 AM..
Old 07-17-2015, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchamness View Post
I think 962 overlooked it being metallic. The 22 line is single stage for solid colors. 55 line is available in solid or metallics. Metallics should be clear coated.
yep over looked that !
how ever all the steps are the same but top coating you would use 55 line and then clear .
Old 07-18-2015, 11:47 AM
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jchamness
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhogan0101 View Post
Thanks for the info, if you were to put together a Material list to do this what would you purchase?
This is a tough one to answer. There are too many factors & too little info.
How much bodywork? Whole car or just the outside? Etc....
The amounts you will need of everything will depend on your equipment, talent, and how much your doing....lots of variables.

I don't believe you can get glasurit primers in less than gallons (or metric equivalent) anymore.
The epoxy uses a different hardener than the primer surfacer. The clear hardener is different as well.

So you need:
Fillers?
Epoxy/hardener/thinner
Primer/hardener/thinner
Base coat & thinner (possibly same as primer)
Clear/hardener/ & thinner (same as basecoat)
I would get 5-10 sheets of each grit 962 states to start with. By hand, machine or both is up to you.
Cleaners, rags plus all the other consumables....
Old 07-18-2015, 05:07 PM
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Your talking huge dollars for the glasurit line!!! Hopefully you have some experience painting and a compressor that can handle a spray gun.
Old 07-19-2015, 10:07 AM
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So far during this restoration nothing has been cheap, so why would the paint be different?
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:24 AM
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Good info here....follow it!!!



Quote:
Originally Posted by 962porsche View Post
the 1st problem is you sodablasted the car .
now you have to clean the hell out of the surface and sand it with 180 or 220 grit paper .
one problem with soda blasting is 1st the substrate is left to smooth to just apply any thing over with out sanding . 2nd problem is the substrate is now coated with soda and blasting metal pushes the soda into the metal .

once you clean the hell out of the substrate and sand every thing and then clean it again .
you would want to apply 1 and no more then 2 coats of an epoxy adhesion primer like glasurit 801-1871 .
then after it's dry you can do your fuller and metal work over the 801-1871 .
you will have break thrus to bare metal after your filler and metal work is done so you will want to spot in the bare areas again .
once that it dry sand the epoxy primer with 220 grit or 180 . try not to break the thru primer sanding .
once it' sanded blow off the work area wipe down and tack off .
now using glasurit filler primer 285-60 mix and spray 3 to 4 coats max .
after it's dry spray a light coat of a sanding guide coat then sand with 500 to 320 grits . wet sand 500 to 400 or dry 400 to 320 .
then after it all sanded you will need to clean every thing getting painted .
wash the panels with soap and water . dish soap works well for this just be sure it does not have hand softeners or oils in the soap like lanolin and alike.
after it's dried off wipe the panel/s down with a pre paint cleaner like RM's 901 .
when cleaning also be sure to clean the back sides and all the nooks real good . even if your masking off the dirt will still find it's way back out when you start spraying . so clean every thing real good !
after masking it time to wipe down every thing all over again . in my shop we all do a final wipe two or three times always using good clean rags .
wet one rag with the 901 and before it dries on the surface wipe it dry with another clean dry one . as soon a the rag gets dirty at all use a new one .
from the final wipe down on you will always be wearing rubber gloves doing any prep work .
how using a good clean tack rag tack the surface down real good . we will also tack off a panel 5 or 6 times .
now it time for top coating .
you can use a wet on wet sealer the 285-60 tinted to the cars color and mixed as a sealer works great .
spray one coat of sealer and after it flashes off for 15 to 20 minutes you can go right to top coat .
the 22line is a very high quality and is what Porsche uses at the factory .
you would want 2 to 3 coats of the 22 line .
after it's dried for 2 or 3 days if air drying (not baked in a booth) you can color sand and then buff .
when buffing do not sand more then you can buff out that day .
the reason is if you put a ultra fine sand scratch in the finish from sanding and you don't get it buffed out that day it will dry a little more and then will be a ***** to buff it out .


any questions ?
Old 07-19-2015, 12:26 PM
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the thing about high end coating like glasurit is they cover much better so you may spend more but in the long run your not really spending more money .

compare it to say the limco line that is at the low end of the coatings line .
you would need 4 coats to get the same mil build as you would out of 2 coats with glasurit .
the same goes for the primers with the limco 800K you would need 6 coats to get the mil build out of 4 coats with glasurit's 285-60 .
BASF products tend to cross things like hardeners and reducers . all there under coats (primers and sealer) will use the same hardeners just like all top coats will use the same but different from the under coats .

a real good thing with the limco line is they share all hardeners and reducers across all there products .
because of how products change over the years limco of today is pretty much the same as what was used on your early 1980's Porsche .
late 1980's to early 1990's the RM line is a match to what was used on Porsche .
Old 07-19-2015, 12:33 PM
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