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My turn at rust repair

I bought this '81 SC back in 2013 to build into my next rally car. After building and racing two 4wd cars in the mid 2000's, I wanted to get back into the sport in something different. I bought the car with plans to prep the shell the first year and leave the powertrain stock, but after finding some broken headstuds, I embarked on a hot engine build. Well, it's nearly 3 years later and the cost of these cars and parts is raising so rapidly, I'm rethinking my plans. Now, i'm planning to build a hot street / auto-x / track / etc. car. I'm debating keeping it narrow and more Carrera 2.7 MFI like or a backdate to ST, R or something else. Regardless of that direction, I have some rust to repair. Most of this rust was hidden from sight with all the panels attached and the paint looked pretty darn good.













Last edited by 3literpwr; 04-24-2016 at 04:36 AM..
Old 04-24-2016, 04:32 AM
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Good Luck with the project. When I started on my cars rust, it seemed a bit much at first. After taking one section at a time, it wasn't too bad a process.
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:50 PM
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Buena suerte
Old 04-30-2016, 02:25 AM
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Sir, I just did some of what you are about to tackle on my 82 coupe...specifically, rot on top of both front bumper shock mounts, the driver's side inner fender flange and the fender attchment lip itself. As per most things, it was a bigger project than I anticipated but came out well in the end.

First tip: be sure to use new 18 guage metal for your repairs; I was initially using 20 which sucks to weld plus isn't as thick as what the car was made with, thus weak, not safe. The 18 g. was a pleasure to weld. You probably know this but resist the temptation to use metal from a late model wreck....say, a Toyota hood someone at a bodyshop might give you, because new car steel is bad for fabricating...somewhat brittle, high carbon, nasty stuff. Buy a fresh sheet of 18 guage fom you local autobody supply house.

Welcome to Impact Bumpers - ImpactBumpers.com is a British website with a bodywork section that has numerous threads on this same set of repairs; it was hugely helpful for me to see how other guys approached it.

You will have the choice to remove the remains of the bumper shock brackets from the tub and rebuild from there. I didn't chose that path; on my car the rust was all above them, so I left them in place and worked around, therefore not risking losing their exact location for reassembly alignment purposes.

One last tip learned either on a forum or from watching TV shows: I've had my MiG forever, but my welding improved 100% when I started double clamping my ground clamp with a pair of vise grips. Replacing the wimpy ground clamp on my Cebora MiG 130 with a high quality clamp with a stiff spring would have the same effect. Either way: hugely important.

Make sure you have plnety of ventilation and a self-darkening mask. Sermon over! Enjoy the ride.
John in CT.
Old 05-06-2016, 11:51 AM
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Thanks for the tips! I'm looking for some of the front end bumper shock repair sections now. Not been able to locate just yet!
Old 05-07-2016, 04:35 AM
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3Litre: I too looked for some "cut" (from a wreck) panels for mine but couldn't find any. I used fresh 18g sheet and hammer & dollies to shape my patch panels, which were all butt-welded plus plug/rosette welded where the bumper shock mount overlaps. I cut the three holes on each side (for electrical and windshield washer hoses) using a circular die punch thingy. Came out well. That's a pretty busy area of the tub on an impact bumper car...so being able to trim back to good metal without hadking out too much enables you to rebuild it as it was designed without losing any indexed reference points. I hope that makes sense. Best of luck, John
Old 05-08-2016, 05:58 PM
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Built a chassis cart this weekend and this should help with other areas of the car.

Old 05-09-2016, 06:16 PM
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