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Plan for doing work on sections of the car: Is this plan OK?

I'm restoring/rebuilding my first car (1973 914) and my knowledge of all of this is mostly theoretical at this point. I'm finally going to be getting started on the metal work this spring. I'm going to work on small sections at a time, such as inside the longitudinal, rather than blast the whole car and epoxy prime it before doing metal work. Here's my plan for working on each section:

1. Blast and/or wire wheel to bare metal
2. Vacuum/blow media
3. Degrease with Castrol Superclean (If applying POR 15 paint in a given area I'll use their cleanear, but otherwise Castrol is much less expensive).
4. Once the section is dry, spray it with POR Metal Ready/Prep (Jasco metal etch is not available locally and the POR product is actually about the least expensive one in these parts; still $23 CAD per quart).
5. Do metal patch repairs (using weld-through primer as appropriate)
6. (should I re-do the Castrol and Metal Ready again at this point, especially on the area of the replacement?)
7. Sand with 400 to scuff (red scotch brite)
8. Clean with wax and grease remover.
9. Blow off with air and wipe with tack cloth
8. 2 coats of epoxy primer (wipe with tack between coats)

Are there any problems with this plan and thoughts on #6?
Old 03-30-2017, 05:01 AM
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i wouldn't intermix different product lines. You don't need to sand with 400 grit to put down a primer coat. Etching primer might be a better choice for your car. You can leave a panel bare for a few days depending on your environment. Talk to 962 he can help you out with questions. Get yourself a good air compressor high cfm, a decent da and go to town. Don't use por 15 on your car, cut out all rust and repair with new.
Old 04-04-2017, 04:25 AM
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Thanks for your reply. Ill be doing this in my spare time so blasted/wheeled parts would be bare for quite some time if I didn't apply metal ready. Interesting, I thought metal needed to be scuffed for proper adhesion of primer. Yes, hoping that 962 chimes in with his sage advice on the steps above.
Old 04-04-2017, 04:46 AM
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forget wire wheeling go with media blasting or stripping with a DA .

yes the blasting will take a good clean up after .but so does a da the dust will still get every where .

foget the por15 crap it's total junk ! use a quality etch or epoxy primer . i would go for epoxy but a etch will do just as well as epoxy . one thing to remember is your primer is your base layer that has to bit into the metal and every thing then bits into that so adheasion primer is not something to get cheap with !

there should be no need to do the castrol supper clean again . as for metal ready i do not in any way like products like that . you remove the rust covering it or converting it is not a real repair .
clean rust free metal is always best to work with . covering /converting it is like lipstick on a pig .

when it comes to sanding the metal for priming 180 or 220 is best 400 grit is not enough tooth for the primers to bit into . 400 is for sand primers for top coating .

you will not be able to take off between coats of primer . the primer will be to tacky to take off . just take it before you prime .
the only product you can take between coats are base coats every thing else you only take off before you start spraying .
Old 04-04-2017, 05:55 AM
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Thanks very much 962. I was thinking to use the metal ready to hold back flash rust after having blasted/stripped while doing repairs (which could take months), so not the lipstick on a pig approach. Do you approve of it's use in this way, or would you let it flash rust and then blast it again before priming (I'd prefer the metal ready way if it will work because it's a lot less messy). Great to know not to try tacking between primer; you saved me learning that one the hard way
Old 04-04-2017, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 962porsche View Post
when it comes to sanding the metal for priming 180 or 220 is best 400 grit is not enough tooth for the primers to bit into .
This is why 962 gets paid the big bucks by Pelican.

When 80 grit is used the surface is surprisingly smooth, even if stripping paint on plastic bumpers.

Mechanical adhesion.
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Old 04-04-2017, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug_B_928 View Post
8. Clean with wax and grease remover.
Use a pre-paint cleaning product after wax and grease remover. Have an applier towel and remover towel. Don't go big on area cleaned. 1.5 foot square - apply then remove. Change out remover towel frequently.

Don't skimp on elbow grease.
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Old 04-04-2017, 03:12 PM
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I saw in a video a guy using a product called something like 'final wipe'. What's he difference between that and W&GR?. I bought a cheap hand held sprayer that's intended for spot spraying herbicide but I thought I'd use it for applying W&GR. I've seen videos of guys using something similar for applying W&GR to wet check for straightness.
Old 04-05-2017, 03:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug_B_928 View Post
I saw in a video a guy using a product called something like 'final wipe'. What's he difference between that and W&GR?. I bought a cheap hand held sprayer that's intended for spot spraying herbicide but I thought I'd use it for applying W&GR. I've seen videos of guys using something similar for applying W&GR to wet check for straightness.
Final wipe is the stuff. I am not sure it's the same stuff as "pre-clean" but it's close. Hell, the names may be the answer and I am not going the full length.

The final wipe flashes off quickly. By the time you get to wiping before painting you should have maybe body oil from you hands and dust. Wax and grease remover is a heavier solvent. It is intended to stay around and dislodge bug guts and road tar. It's almost oily. You don't want to trust a rage to clear it all off.

You can sure use wax and grease remover for a wet check.

Go to a parts store or a paint jobber and buy a Preval sprayer. $10. Skip the herbicide sprayer.
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Old 04-05-2017, 01:54 PM
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Thanks. To clarify, are you suggesting to use a preval sprayer to apply wax and grease remover?
Old 04-05-2017, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug_B_928 View Post
Thanks. To clarify, are you suggesting to use a preval sprayer to apply wax and grease remover?
No. To spray the paint.
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Old 04-11-2017, 11:30 AM
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That's what I figured. The herbicide sprayer is for applying wax and grease remover. I have some paint guns (el cheapos but I hope they'll work for me).
Old 04-11-2017, 11:37 AM
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El Cheapos can work just fine
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Old 04-11-2017, 12:13 PM
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I'm no expert but I can tell you that after blasting I had a ton of media all over the car. I vacuumed to no avail. What really worked was to hit the body with a light rubber hammer, vacuum, repeat. It worked well.
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Old 05-14-2017, 12:10 PM
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Good tip, thanks!
Old 05-15-2017, 04:11 AM
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