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Blackhawk Jig

Got the Blackhawk jig and put my car on it. The torsion tube had a crack so replacement of that is first. My rear seats are in near perfect condition so I wanted to avoid cutting them out. So will replace the tube from below.
Rich from J-3 Restorations has been fantastic. Customer support is better than anything I've ever purchased. Emails back within 10 min. Bit expensive but well worth the sum.




Sorry some of the pictures appear to be upside down. They look right on my iPhone but on my computer not so much. Im going to put the blame on Apple. and the that they have something against left handed people. I guess I hold the phone upside down in my left hand. Seeing as I have really bad luck with stocks. Im going to buy a ton of Apple and that will guarantee them going down.
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Last edited by seafeye; 11-15-2017 at 05:42 AM..
Old 09-22-2017, 01:30 PM
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Got some work done today. Right side torsion tube is fitted, welded, epoxy primed. Inner rocker is mostly in. Now to the other side.
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Last edited by seafeye; 10-12-2017 at 05:15 PM..
Old 10-12-2017, 04:01 PM
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Hopefully not upside down.
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Last edited by seafeye; 10-24-2017 at 07:56 PM..
Old 10-12-2017, 05:15 PM
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Old torque tube had a wee crack.
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Old 10-12-2017, 07:44 PM
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Got the left side done. Torsion tube is nice and straight. The jig is nice and stout. Makes for easy assembly.
Now it's off to fit the front.

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Old 10-18-2017, 03:24 PM
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Nice work.
Old 10-19-2017, 06:04 PM
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Thanks

I've scrapped off 90% of the undercoating. Just a bit where the steering rack is. I'll get that once it's off the jig.
There was an original Turbo in the shop so we had made a door fixture to locate the door hinges and the quarter panel striker plate. The front end is screwed in and measured. The dansk innerfenders required a fair amount of working to get situated properly.
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Old 10-19-2017, 07:06 PM
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Left side door jig made up.
And the welding started up front. Got it secure so the strut towers on the jig could be removed. Will still have to do a fair amount of grinding and making everything look pretty.




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Last edited by seafeye; 11-14-2017 at 10:08 AM..
Old 10-24-2017, 03:05 PM
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For those of you that noticed... the car is a '71. But I'm making a 911R style car and will have a '72 style oil tank. So to make things simple the '71 oil tank holes were filled in and a '72 style inner quarter piece was put in so I can mount the remote oil console.
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Old 10-24-2017, 07:53 PM
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Pics


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Last edited by seafeye; 11-14-2017 at 10:20 AM..
Old 10-24-2017, 07:54 PM
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Some progress today. Lots of welding and grinding. The dansk inner fenders needed some more welds at the top of the shock tower. The tank support and 100l tank needed some work to get to fit right. Will finish that tomorrow. Battery boxes were a bear to get to fit.







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Last edited by seafeye; 10-25-2017 at 03:59 PM..
Old 10-25-2017, 02:54 PM
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Amazing work.


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Old 10-25-2017, 04:50 PM
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I'm just an owner that tries to help but probably gets in the way. But a 2nd set of hands "sometimes" makes things go smoother. I try do the worst jobs to take the strain off the builders.

I Made some 3" round pieces of steel to fill in the fuel tank filler that I won't be using. And the door was hung to see how much adjustment will be needed. The rear quarter panel will need to move up 1/4". The tank support was measured twice and welded in. Battery boxes next up front. Then I'll have to figure out how to mount an early style fiberglass bumper to a "newer" body car.





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Last edited by seafeye; 10-26-2017 at 09:41 AM..
Old 10-26-2017, 09:19 AM
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Front of the car was clamped on to help line up the doors and rear quarter panel. I tried fitting the hinges on the fiberglass doors. That's not going to be a fun job. Limited access and obvious differences left and right. Pictures tomorrow. I decided to forget the battery boxes. They don't fit great with the fiberglass front fenders. And if I ever get enough money for the front dual cooler setup, the battery boxes would be in the way.







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Last edited by seafeye; 11-15-2017 at 05:45 AM..
Old 10-26-2017, 04:51 PM
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Slow day. Sized up the front bumper. Will need to modify the newer style bumper brackets to work with the early bumper. Then finished installing the hinges on the fiberglass doors.


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Old 10-27-2017, 01:11 PM
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Fiberglass doors lined up. Still have the left side of the car to weld. But the right is mostly done. Aside from the rear quarter panel. Hood was being a challenge to line up correctly. But after the seals were installed the gaps were great.

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Old 11-07-2017, 03:59 PM
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Left side door hinge panel located and rosette welded in place. Doors close nicely with little effort. Although the right rear quarter panel was spot welded incorrectly and will need to be fixed. (Factory part) Lots of new metal going into this build. So should be good for another 40 or so years. And so I won't have big holes in the inner fenders my patch for the fuel filler pipe was put in place.






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Last edited by seafeye; 11-14-2017 at 10:21 AM..
Old 11-08-2017, 04:59 PM
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Super cool in all regards: the car, the GM Dealer Equipment jig, the shop doing the work. All A+, great to watch. John in CT
Old 11-08-2017, 08:36 PM
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Kinda going back a step. But those that noticed I replaced the rear motor mount panel. It wasn’t in great shape, salvageable but I think it as money better spent replacing this part. Original part was spot welded and also had a gas weld around the mounts. Those all had to be removed to fit the new part. Pictures say 1000 words. The newer style panel is slightly different in 3 places. I have yet to decide if I’ll backdate the panel yet to make it more period correct.




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Last edited by seafeye; 11-14-2017 at 10:28 AM..
Old 11-12-2017, 09:35 AM
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Had some people ask more about the torsion tube replacement. Ill try to explain what we did, keep in mind there are many ways to get to the end result. This is just the path we took. One of the reasons we did it this way was because I really really didn't want to cut the back seats out of the car, then weld them back in. There are 3 pieces of steel used on each side. The inner, the really inner and the outer sheet metal. The order to replace was important in order to get full welds 360 degrees around the torque tube. The inner piece kinda gets extra weld. It gets it from the inside and as much as we can from under the car.

We started with the used donor replacement tube. I cut off the surrounding metal with a power saw and used a wiz wheel to ground out the factor welds. I was left with a round tube with the transmission mounts still left on. I then bead blasted the part and painted with epoxy primer. Knowing that some of the tube will have to be cleaned off to weld.



The old tube in the car was cut out using a small wiz wheel. I figured a saw might not be safe. I cut a square hole in the tube from the underneath, enough to get the wiz wheel inside the hold. Then I twisted it to just cut a line all around the tube. Then repeated on the other side. There was still metal that needed to be cut out. So I made some rough cuts, square, to get the remaining torque tube out.



Not a lot of rust but its a lot more metal will need to be removed in order for the tube to be fitted.




Next we trimmed the area for the new metal starting inside out. The holes are already made in the new panels. The tube was bolted to the jig fixture and the inner sheet metal was lined up and tack welded in place. Now here is where we got cheeky. The torque tube was pulled out to give us access to the back of the sheet metal. This was we were to guarantee that it was welded in the 90 degree corner.





Then the torque tube was put back on the jig, bolted up and welded 360 degree around starting from the outside. We did as much as we could from the underneath of the car but maybe only 270 degrees. Its welded on the other side so that didn't matter much.



Next was just working inside out. Doing the middle panel, then the outer. All the time having at least 3 points connected to the jig. Some shims were used to take out some friction in the tube. We are talking 1000/th of an inch.

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Old 11-14-2017, 09:54 AM
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