Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog Tech Info Tech Forums
 
  Search our site:    
 Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    
  Join us November 1st for Casino Night at the Pelican Parts Open House!
Benefiting LuMind - Research and Treatment for individuals with Down Syndrome
Go Back   Pelican Parts Technical BBS > 5 - Miscellaneous > Paint & Bodywork Discussion Forum

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
Author
Thread Post New Thread    Reply
Registered User
 
David 23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 142
Painting fiberglass body parts

Would someone offer suggestions as to the correct sequence of materials for painting fiberglass body parts (bumpers). I would appreciate specific material suggestions.
__________________
1996 993 C4S
1978 911 SC "D" race car
2002 BMW E46 M3
2003 MINI S
1951 Chevy Old Skool Kustom
Old 01-11-2008, 06:15 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 532
This is what I do: I sand the FG parts with 150 grit to take most of the scratches, then I prime it, I preffer to use PPG brand because it is somewhat flexible, with that primer you will find out that there are a lot of pinholes, I use some very flexible glaing putty like metal glaze and go over all the surface, sand again with 150 and reprime and prep for paint.

I hope this help.
__________________
"EVER SINCE EXCUSES WERE INVENTED, EVERYBODY IS PERFECT"
http://axiom-motorsports.com/
Rudy Ruano, Operations Manager.
Joseph Toliva, guy who signs my check
Old 01-11-2008, 09:05 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Jeff Alton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Langley,B.C.
Posts: 9,475
I would first recommend a thorough wash with virgin tolulene or your favourite wax remover. Use two rags, one wet and a different one to dry with. Also, use new cloths, not ones that have been used with any wax type product even if they have been washed. When a part comes out of the mold it takes some of the mold release wax with it. If you sand before removing the wax you run the risk of imbedding the wax in the surface which can cause problems when you finish it.

Cheers
__________________
Turn3 Autosport- Full Service and Race Prep
jeff@turn3autosport.com
Old 01-11-2008, 09:30 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 532
Good catch Jeff, I often forget to remind others to do that first step. dish washing soap has also worked for me.
__________________
"EVER SINCE EXCUSES WERE INVENTED, EVERYBODY IS PERFECT"
http://axiom-motorsports.com/
Rudy Ruano, Operations Manager.
Joseph Toliva, guy who signs my check
Old 01-12-2008, 07:53 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Boca Raton/Atlanta
Posts: 544
painting fiberglass...help!

John et al,

Wow, wish I would've found this post before I commenced painting! Here's what happened -- I bought bumper ducts for my C2 conversion.

due to their potent smell, I am guessing the pieces were just made and I should have known better and cleaned them. However, I proceeded to sand them, prime them and paint them. Problem is, the paint is crackling and no matter how many times I sand them back down, the paint just crackles...again and again.

Any guess as to why or what I might try?

Thanks,

Rob
__________________
Rob L.
Currently have too many cars
to properly care for
Old 02-14-2008, 01:19 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 532
You may want to try some resin base primer like the one that PCL sells, it's called poly primer. and then repaint.
__________________
"EVER SINCE EXCUSES WERE INVENTED, EVERYBODY IS PERFECT"
http://axiom-motorsports.com/
Rudy Ruano, Operations Manager.
Joseph Toliva, guy who signs my check
Old 02-14-2008, 02:57 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #6 (permalink)
 
Now Available for Ordering:   101 Projects For Your BMW 3 Series 1982-2000  [more info]
drives fast
 
Capt. Crunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Orange County, Ca
Posts: 1,011
...
__________________
Capt. Crunch
Socalcruiser161@gmail dot com

Last edited by Capt. Crunch; 03-24-2008 at 02:26 PM..
Old 02-19-2008, 10:10 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 532
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt. Crunch View Post
For those of you outside of california PCL is probably not available. This is a primer that is polyester based and acts more like a sprayable bondo. You want to make sure any polyester product is dry before you coat over it as it has a tendency to suck in the solvents from the basecoat and cause "halos" and "dye-back".
Sprayable bondo??? Isn't Bondo a name brand?? if you are referring to body fillers, I doubt if anything that thick can be sprayed, even gel coat or Evercoat's Primer Surfacers are not that thick.

PCL, outside California, UPS perhaps.? it is a decent and affordable product for a small job, like some bumper ducts.
__________________
"EVER SINCE EXCUSES WERE INVENTED, EVERYBODY IS PERFECT"
http://axiom-motorsports.com/
Rudy Ruano, Operations Manager.
Joseph Toliva, guy who signs my check
Old 02-20-2008, 05:35 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #8 (permalink)
drives fast
 
Capt. Crunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Orange County, Ca
Posts: 1,011
...
__________________
Capt. Crunch
Socalcruiser161@gmail dot com

Last edited by Capt. Crunch; 03-24-2008 at 02:27 PM..
Old 02-20-2008, 07:17 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: SANTA CRUZ, CA.
Posts: 2,240
Send a message via Yahoo to rgofast
One thing everyone should be aware of when painting and finishing fiberglass parts. The bare pannels should be worn on the car before they are painted. I mean quite a while. Depending on how fresh the fiberglass is, it takes time to fully cure. During this time it is outgassing substances which could end up destroying your perfect paint job over time. I have MA Shaw fiberglass on my car. It has been on the car for over two years without painting. I was told by Mr Shaw himself to put the panels on the car, drive around and let it sit in the sun for quite a while before attemting to finish the panels. The fiberglass will cure, and minor defects, such as pits and bubbles will show up. They did on mine. If I would have painted them right away, I would be re doing it. Of course this depends on how long the stuff has been sitting in inventory, but anything that is still putting out an odor is way to new to paint.
__________________
www.thegraffhaus.com
1969 911T lightweight, 1925 lbs. Autocross car
1973 1/2 911T S optioned sunroof coupe (in progress)
1998 993 Carrera Cabriolet
Old 02-20-2008, 01:48 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
3.2 CAB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: MS.
Posts: 2,319
I personally would not install any composite part on a vehicle that would be driven and then exposed to the contaminants that it would encounter while on the road. Oils, petroleum products, waxes, silicones, etc. are devastating for a quality paint finish. The composite parts that I mold and then later pull from the plugs, I let cure in a climate controlled storage room. Some items I even let the Sun help aide in the out-gassing process. I know that a lot of people still use old newspapers for the masking and taping off, when ready to shoot. This is a bad idea, where does most ink come from, vegetable oil bases, or petroleum base products. Why take a chance for failure from the beginning when a quality finish is needed. Just my $0.03
__________________
84' Steelslantnose Cab.
1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles
1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles
1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY
1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK*
1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow
Newest additions-
Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!!
1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles
others...
Old 02-21-2008, 03:42 PM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #11 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 532
Here are some pictures of a piece that was given to me to, kind of test. It is still in the same shape as it came out of the mold, It was done by some one who deals in a lot of molded pieces, but not a huge name in the business, it is a two piece tail, so I painted the top piece right away and left the bottom piece for observation.

There has been no bleeding, no shrinking, no gassing, and no other things we might think of.

The parts are still the same, so.... who or what do we believe, a manufacturer that might be covering his angles, a salesman trying to push his products, a guy at a shop who has to deal with the issues of an unhappy client or just the common myths and old wives' tales.

The part that got painted was done with the following procedure: wash with soap and water, dry sanded with 150 grit and primed with PPG NCP 280, wet sanded to 600 grit and spray with a two stage system, DBC base coat and DCU 2010 clear.

I deal with a lot of composites (thank you 3.2 cab for using the correct terminology) and I must say that poor quality is to blame for the majority of problems.





__________________
"EVER SINCE EXCUSES WERE INVENTED, EVERYBODY IS PERFECT"
http://axiom-motorsports.com/
Rudy Ruano, Operations Manager.
Joseph Toliva, guy who signs my check

Last edited by Axiom; 02-23-2008 at 02:06 PM..
Old 02-22-2008, 09:43 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #12 (permalink)
Registered User
 
3.2 CAB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: MS.
Posts: 2,319
Very true on a lot of poor quality composite parts. I have seen numerous pieces that the gelcoat was so poorly applied, it could be almost invisible in some areas,(numerous pinholes and even fabric at the surface) or very thick in other places on the same piece. Quality pieces are a must to start with. Some producers try to make things so thin(saving money on products) that the pieces are total crap, some hardly 1mm thick. You could crush it in your hand like rice paper. Then there is the other side of the spectrum, too little fabric, chop, cloth, or what ever you want to call the (re-bar) in the composite piece, and it is super-overly saturated with resin. Too much resin just adds extra weight, but no strength, and makes for an unstable product. There needs to be a proper balance of resin and the mat, chop, fabric, etc for a piece to last just as long, or longer that the same piece shaped from sheet metals. For people that have not worked with the various composites that are available presently, it is a good idea to seek out some assistance from someone that has knowledge of the materials. I have seen some items totally ruined, from misapplication of various paint related products.(Some things just don't play well with others) OK, rant over.
__________________
84' Steelslantnose Cab.
1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles
1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles
1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY
1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK*
1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow
Newest additions-
Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!!
1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles
others...
Old 02-23-2008, 07:20 AM
  Recommend this thread for the PelicanWiki    Reply With Quote #13 (permalink)
Old 02-23-2008, 07:20 AM
Reply

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

 



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:14 AM.


 
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page
 

DTO Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.