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GorillaFoot
 
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: largo, FL
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Bonding nose panel to bumper cover

As the title suggests, for some not terribly vital reasons, I am bonding my 951 GT-Racing nose panel to the bumper cover. Both pieces are gelcoated fiberglass. I tried to sand off the gelcoat to give a fiberglass to fiberglass bond, but there is too much gelcoat, so I am working under the advice that epoxy will mechanically bond to properly prepped gelcoat. I'm using West System products.

Here's the plan. Tell me where I am screwing up:

1. Sanded the areas to be bonded with 40 grit sand paper
2. Drilled holes in each piece to allow the epoxy to seep through and bond better
3. Clean area with acetone
4. Lay epoxy down on each piece, join the pieces and clamp/screw them in place
5. For extra strength, using fiberglass to reinforce the back side seam of the now joined unit and build up the areas that flex. I may then rivet the joint too, but I think this is overkill
6. Finish off with filler, sand, prime, paint.

This is my first time working with fiberglass, so if anyone's got some tips out there, I'd appreciate it!
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1989 951- As graphics have been added, it's less red, but read more. Stock has been socked. Caged, stripped, bump sticked, blown, chipped and tweaked, rollin' on Hoosiers.
Old 08-08-2012, 05:24 AM
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i did the same thing as you are with my 948 (944 with a LS7 motor ) tube chassis car with GT panels . grind the jellcoating off . then lay up glass and do it right if you don't the seam wil show up later .
i will get back to you after work today on what i did .
Old 08-08-2012, 10:24 AM
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GorillaFoot
 
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Well, I'd LIKE to bond the two pieces, fiberglass to fiberglass, but after quite a bit of sanding, I'm not getting past the gelcoat in a few areas, especially on the leading edge of the nose panel. I have an itching feeling that the entire front of the nose panel is gelcoat!

962, I think you may have too many toys. Care to give any of them away?
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1989 951- As graphics have been added, it's less red, but read more. Stock has been socked. Caged, stripped, bump sticked, blown, chipped and tweaked, rollin' on Hoosiers.
Old 08-08-2012, 11:51 AM
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to many i only own 38 cars right now i own more 944 body cars than any others .
this spring i own 46 cars but i sent some off to the bone yard two 944's and a 930 race car . one of the 944's the guy drove right onto the flat bed tow truck . it needed ball joints the other 944 had a bad trans and the 930 i stripped every thing off i could most of the panels were fiborglass . they were up for sale but only some tire kickers came and looked it them . i'm moving two fo my shops and they needed to go .
any way . grind the jellcoat off with 36 grit on a grinder . take it back about 4 inches past the seam of were you want to bond the two panels . if you find that the jellcoat is very thick and you will don't worry about it you have to remove it or you will have a ghost of the seam coming back a year later . you will be building what your grinding away with the fibor glass . after you strip it back use cloth not mat and do your layups . cross the weave of each layup so that non of them run in the same direction 3 on the top side and 3 on the under side is best . use only enough resin to wet the glass cloth no more if you over use resin it will srink in later and you will see the seam or it may crack later on . let each coat or layup dry before the next one goes on . i let it sit for about 12 to 24 hours between coats or layups to fully cure . you then can give it a sanding with some 80 grit between coats /layups do not shag up the cloth you just want to give a scratch for the next layup to bite into .
when your finished with your layup and the panels are nice and strong you can use a product like duraglass to fill in any lows and to do any majer shaping you will need to do . that is what it's made for . to do any final finish filler work you then can use a regular type body filler . don't use a regular body filler over the fiborglass you layed up it will srink in later on and you will see it . so use the duraglass 1st . then you can use a filler primer or a polyester spray filler . i tend to use a spray filler insted of a filler primer on some thing like that . the reason is most of the time the other products your using are also polyester so everthing is a good product match and every compatible .
jellcoat is a product were nothing really likes to bite into it and say for very long so that is the reason you really need to remove it and not work over it at all .
Old 08-08-2012, 06:16 PM
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GorillaFoot
 
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Oh, boy. This fiberglass crap is a lot of work. Thanks for the step by step though! I'm taking next week off from work, so hopefully I will be able to get all this done.
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1989 951- As graphics have been added, it's less red, but read more. Stock has been socked. Caged, stripped, bump sticked, blown, chipped and tweaked, rollin' on Hoosiers.
Old 08-09-2012, 06:25 AM
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as you know fiborglass work will make your skin itchy to help combat it you should take a good hand cream and rub it all over your arms tow coats . then use a box fan to blow the dust out away from you . wear long sleeves . when your done for the day wash in the coldest water you can stand . it's not a cure to stop all the itch but it's a big help . and don't do the work in the sun .
but yes it is work ! on the other hand if you do it right and take your time it will be worth it .
Old 08-09-2012, 09:35 AM
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GorillaFoot
 
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Yes, I've heard about the fibers! I'm going to wear a body suit, but the lotion is a good idea too. We don't have cold tap water here in Florida. Will cold beer work? I plan on being inebriated for a good portion of this job...
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1989 951- As graphics have been added, it's less red, but read more. Stock has been socked. Caged, stripped, bump sticked, blown, chipped and tweaked, rollin' on Hoosiers.
Old 08-09-2012, 12:35 PM
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Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmbeer !
Old 08-09-2012, 01:53 PM
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GorillaFoot
 
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Well, I did not get to enjoy as many beers as I wanted. I had a very long list of interior stuff, body work, panel alignment (fiberglass panels and a slightly tweaked frame makes life... interesting.) that required me to take an entire week off of work, getting started before dawn each day and working until 3-5pm, 7 days straight. The big job was the aforementioned nose. I had never worked with Dzus fasteners, fiberglass or epoxy, so I didn't know what to expect.

I took 962's advice in the previous posts and though there was a boat load of sanding required and a bit of Evercoat filler, I think the final product came out very nicely. It's pretty damn solid, too. I still have to fill in some epoxy holes, give it another shot of primer, paint, then a vinyl wrap, but the heavy lifting is done.

Thanks for the help, 962porsche!

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1989 951- As graphics have been added, it's less red, but read more. Stock has been socked. Caged, stripped, bump sticked, blown, chipped and tweaked, rollin' on Hoosiers.
Old 08-20-2012, 07:36 AM
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any time my friend ! it looks good ! 1/4 turn fasteners are no big deal once you do them once or twice they go ez . the biggest PITA about them is knowing what size ones you need .
for any pin holes you can just skim coat over them with a product like USC icing .
be sure any epoxy you use has no chromates in it . any chromates will eat into the polyester resin . any body fillers that are derect to metals of filler type primers many have some chromates and will blister down the road .
Old 08-20-2012, 09:18 AM
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