Oil Pressure Light - Ignition Off

[1964356c]

Hello All -
Really appreciate the community and hoping to learn a great deal. I purchased a 64 356c and just had the (912) engine and transmission rebuilt.

When it first returned from the shop, starting the vehicle was no problem and it would idle at just less than 1,000 rpms before driving.

After several weeks, the car would start well, but the idle would go to zero and shut down while warming up. We adjusted the throttle and that may have helped a bit. That said, I've been manually keeping the idle +/- 1,000 for a few minutes before driving.
After driving for a bit, the car will idle nicely, although I would hear a knock every once in a while.

Last week, the car would take a few turns of the key prior to starting and the oil pressure light comes on when turning the car off and remains on with the key out. During the rebuild, we installed a kill switch. It came in handy as that prevented current being drawn from the oil pressure light overnight. A few days later, it wouldn't start.

2 days ago , the car started just fine (with the low idle) and the oil pressure light had disappeared when turning it off. When returning home in the rain, (not ideal) the light came on while driving.

I am not sure what the cause might be appreciate your feedback or solutions.

Thank you,

[peter leinberge]

Good morning
Perhaps start with the basics:
1) Oil pressure test cold and hot, it will alleviate a lot of hand wringing and worry so you can focus on the next step.
2) check for vacuum leaks.
3) check & adjust rockers (valve lash) .004 intake, .006 exhaust.
what distributor are you using?
If it's a 912 engine, are you still using the solex carbs or whatcha' running?

[1964356c]

Hi Peter -
Goes to show how much I need to learn about the car as I am heading to the shop on Friday to get items 1-3 tackled. It does have a .050 distributor and Weber carbs. Being so new and keen on gaining an understanding of the car, I am open to any literature / video suggestions. Thank you for the response.

[peter leinberge]

Hi.
You're welcome, hope it gets sorted and doesn't cost too much.
I would look through the offerings here? on Pelican for reading or video material.
There are many informative and interesting publications to help you get started plus tutorials so you can learn to do your own work on your new Hotrod. The more you know the lesser the chances of getting stuck somewhere if it should hiccup.

[Daves911L]

I wonder if the oil pressure light is somehow confused with the generator light?

[1964356c]

Hey Guys -
I am looking forward to doing work on the car with some learning- definitely aiming for smaller task initially.

It appears that getting caught in the rain allowed moisture to penetrate the electrical system and that is the possible culprit. Now it's dry and the light hasn't come on again.

A new challenge...We changed the oil for the first time since the rebuild. On the way home, the oil temp would bounce around and hold in the red as well. We installed a universal oil pressure gauge and that kept steady at 20-23. Heading back into the shop this week to review. The idle has also reduced more as well. (100-600 / even after some good driving). If I am not manually keeping the rpms up - there is a possibility of the car shutting off as I am unsure it will agree not to shut down at a low rpm. I haven't made any additional adjustments to the idle rpm yet. Wondering if the 2 issues are related somehow. A future task is to rewire the electrical but I am hoping that isn't required too soon.

[930cabman]

Welcome aboard!

As I recall 10psi per 1000 rpms is a good rule of thumb. If the engine was rebuilt the oil pressure should be very good, assuming the clearances were done correctly.

Have the Weber carbs been synchronized? each carb must draw the same vacuum. This is accomplished with a Uni Syn or similar gauge.

[1964356c]

Hi All -
We also thought the lights might be confused with each but everything seems to be connected properly.
The 10 psi per 1,000 has remained steady and the carbs were synchronized during the rebuild. We cleaned them and ensured all is running well. Separately, one of the velocity stacks is burned so we now have those on order. After cleaning the carbs, I adjusted the idle to a solid 1,100 rpms. Went to start it the next morning and the gas pedal was to the floor. The throttle ball and the alternator belt popped off. Thinking there is a leak from the oil tree and that might have caused the belt to pop off. Hoping to fix the leak and replace the throttle balls. Hoping that will do the trick.

[peter leinberge]

The fan belt pulley and belt tension is critical.
Be certain the tension is adjusted properly and the pulley is intact. Check the center of
the pulley, they have a tendency to wear out due to improper spacing/tension between the pulley halves and "walking" / slippage.
Maybe research "356 generator pulley" or something to that effect to find accurate pictures of the pieces.
Can you post any photos of your engine?

[1964356c]

Hi Peter -
The improper spacing was likely the cause.
New belt (+ velocity stacks) added, and the throttle ball & oil leaks were repaired. Gave it a good drive. After about an hour of driving, I smelled toast and the generator burned out. It was a new generator and being rebuilt now. Hoping this will be the cure so I can get behind the wheel. Will report back.

[1964356c]

Attempting to add the photo again..