356 fuel sending unit

[mostlybugs]

Just started looking a '54 356. Is it easier to make a new sending unit gasket than to buy one? Like the tip on the battery size, this one does not fit properly, leaving no room for the spare tire. Also the wheels on this car seem to stick to the drums when the lug nuts are pulled. Are they the wrong size?

[Wayne 962]

Hmmm, you'll have to be a bit more clear, I didn't quite understand what you were talking about?

-Wayne

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

I´m not sure but the pre A didn´t came stock with a fuelmeter. Those units where suplied from aftermarked. But mostly VDO or Motometer.

Now we don´t know what sender is in the tank.

Most gaskets can be made from raw. But if it is aviable you can save the time.

Just up on you. If you run a buisines you buy as much you can and focus to make only the NLA possible. If not the investet time will run out off control and well we know that.

Correct batterys are still avaiable but cost a bit more then the standard unit. If you say old Volkswagen it might be cheaper but also the smaller battery with lower cold crank capacity.

The slight sticking is normal as this is caused by the long time on the drum and the very low tolerances to center the tire on the drum.

But it also could be caused by aftermarked units as beetle rims are machined for M12 x 1,5 bolts while the 356 has M14 x 1,5 studs.

But I´m not sure about pre A as the Mach 1 beetle used frontdrums from the 356 and rear drums from VW and I think they made it with VW rims.

Does someone has a spareparts catalog or a brad Anderson to check ?


Grüsse

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

Sorry but hotmail is always under construction and not to synchroniize right now. I also think that working on the board does help al others and someone else in the team has maybe the chance to send a better respose.


[qoute]This fuel sending unit is in a tank that came from a 1960 Porsche. The
dash does not have a gauge and the sending unit is not wired up, just
leaking. I would like to keep any repairs as stock as possible since
some of the repairs in the past have been less than professional. It
seems like the rims are sticking on the outer edge of the drum and not
the face or the bolt pattern. I am pretty sure the wheels are
aftermarket Porsche, not VW. Thanks for the info.[/qoute]


Now the 60s had two different sender positions. They where mountet top or botoom.

The bootom units had a rubber seal and those are still aviable today but better get a newer hypalon seal. VDO sales them and Porsche do also have them for a other sender.
Some VW units have the same seal.
The top sender has a corc seal with is also aviable. but the rubber seal fits to as they have the same bolt patern.

There are some bigger holes units around.

Best is to look at the snder and write down the numbers. Some have also the datestamp still readable. This will make ordering the correct part easier.
Don´t forget the little crush washers and if needed the nuts.

The next thing is to make the electric. Later units have a reserve light contact.

This is mostly named K while the sender unit is G.

Hooking up is simple run a groundwire to one off the studs. the a black cable to the idiot light sender and a green wire to the sender contact.

Finding a instrument is hard. The simplest thing would be to run the idiot light but you also can use the fuel cook to have the same result.

If you can life with a add on then get a pre 65 Karmann Giha 6V unit. Autometer had a nice made aluminium consule to mount instruments. This will fit to the left side from the steering colum. be aware that on a accident your knees will crush into them.
So mount the consule in a way that it can bend upwards behind the board. Aluminium is soft enough to bend without to much force.

Now the next thing is very simple. The original rims are 16" and the 15" Porsche do mostly fit too but not some off the aftermarked rims. They have to large weldseams. The rim is now sticking to the cooling fins from the drum. To make it worser corosin starts over the years starting even more pressure as the aluminium will change the volume.

Best way is to pull the drum complete with the tire and then it is up to the condition from the parts. If the drums are shoot anyway it is easyer but if the drums are good the rims are cheaper.

Try first to oil the contac area with WD 40.

Then try to tab out the drum by using a malet and a woodring or a woodpeace. A soft rubber hammer will work best.

If it will not come then get a dead blow hammer or a chopper hammer.

If a fin brakes away they can be rewelded ( costly ).

But better stop and look for a other solution. Rewelding is more expensive then rims. Use a esaw and cut the rim open along the cooling vents then remove the dish and gut trough the tire into thetirebed until you are trough to the drum. Then remove the tire ( Some tireshops can remove good tires with the drum in the rim. You also can try it yourself ) and splice the ring with a wedge.

Grüsse

[Wayne 962]

To the best of my knowledge, the gasket for the fuel tank sender is similar to the one for the 911 & 914, and costs about $2-3.

-Wayne