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356 noob question on first time buyer
Sorry if this question has been beat to death.
I did a search on here and I must not be putting in the right search word. :( I've been looking at getting a 356 and obviously I am mostly concerned about the numbers matching with a decent body to start with. However, I know nothing about these cars... What is the different between the A, B, C, etc...? Which model/year coupe is a good one to start with? I don't want to do an outlaw (at least I don't think? :confused:) |
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porsche_356
Also check out the 356 Registry although it costs money to join and post. Any model can be good. Matching numbers isn't everything unless you are a collector. Some models are considerably more expensive than others. The B coupes are the cheapest. |
I've owned two pre A's, one A and one C.
My favorite was the A....although I really wish I had kept the Pre A Speedster! European Collectibles usually has an inventory of each model so you can compare and take a look at their "sold" inventory for more pics. https://www.europeancollectibles.com/vehicles |
Don't forget any of them can be modded to give a reliable 140hp. Cost a bit but hey you can keep up with modern traffic. Same with brakes and suspension.
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no need for 140hp since they are not very heavy. My 60hp normal runs 80mph all day long and loves it and i have no problem getting to 80mph either. if anything, a 1720cc kit is all you need. Stock drum brakes are fine too. Not the very best by modern standards, but miles better than your US land yacht of the same vintage.
The early transmissions do not like a lot of hp/torque. 741 in the B/C is the best shifting. A transmissions are decent but not as nice/ strong as a 741. |
The C/SC is the final variation - disc brakes all around, better running gear, the newer transmission, etc.
Most say the A or pre-A cars have the nicest lines... If you really want one, I'd recommend joining the 356 Registry - enjoy the magazine, participate in the forums, etc. and learn all you can before you buy. |
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Maybe I'm just poor... but the prices they are asking for are NUTS!!!! :eek: For example, a 1975 2.7 911 that is clearly missing some pieces and needs some maintenance and isn't even in its original color... and they want $239k???? :eek::confused: |
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T-5 B cars ('60 - '61) will be on the cheaper end... for coupes & cabriolets. the roadster doesn't suffer quite as much.
a numbers matching car is only a concern for resale. as stated above join the 356 Registry... read, read, read as much as you can. when you're done with that ... read some more. be patient. your dream car will present itself when the time is right. I trust you've purchased other cars in the past. same rules of engagement apply. it's a combination of work and luck. |
In case you settle on a 356 - take a look at the link below to get familiar with the maintenance and repair procedures. Please let us know if you have any questions!
Porsche 356 (1956-1965) Technical Articles - Pelican Parts |
I just got into the 356world and had/have a lot of question and got some answers.
Here's what I found. The most expensive cars are the pre A's then it is the A's then SC, C and finally the cheapest is the B's. I ended up buying a C because it was available and priced right. I like the looks of the pre A the most, but I like the wing windows of the C and SC's and it seems the trans and engine are more refined and the disc brakes are nice in a no thinking or maintence kind of way. My C is stock except for a big bore kit and it makes plenty of power for city driving and enough for highway cruising at legal speeds with out being strained. My cars is #'s matching which is really only a point for resale and of course has no impact on driving it. I think the difference between a car with needs and a nice driver is relatively small at time of purchase and huge if you try to do it later. So buy a good one to start with and not a fixer upper. Good luck |
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