How to remove rounded WUR bolt?
 

Replacing my WUR 090. The forward bolt (difficult to access) holding the old WUR looks like it's starting to get rounded from previous repairs? It didn't come off immediately and I didn't want to put a ton of pressure for fear of rounding it completely. Sprayed a bunch of PB Blaster and letting it soak. I am going to try again in a few mins. If it does get rounded, what other option do I have for removing the bolt?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1530638208.jpg

drill it out and replace it...

See if you can cheat with an oversized allen wrench. Probably not.

Fill allen recess half way up with regular JB Weld. Drop loose allen wrench in the hole. Wiggle a wee bit to saturate tip where it should bite.

Wait 24 hours. Loosen.

You can buy fluted extractor sockets that dig in and tighten on the head of the nut when rotated counterclockwise, they even sell them at Autozone. The bolt will need to be replaced when you get it out.

Google "extractor socket"

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1530643443.jpg

Extractor socket isn’t going to work on countersunk bolt.
Try a hex key on a socket with an impact driver. (The type used for screws you hit with a hammer)
The JB weld idea may work too.

Clever idea.

The JB weld idea is great! I have it soaking with PB Blaster and I'm going to give it a shot tomorrow with the standard 6mm hex. If that strips it, I may try the JB Weld option.

Anyone point me to the correct size for replacement bolts?

oops couldn't see from the pic that it was countersunk, just use the standard extractor set JW posted above

I have never seen those in AdvanceAuto.

They are sweet.

WUR Mounting bolts......
 

Ethan,

Focus on removing the inner mounting bolt. I will mail to you a couple of these bolts. There are several ways and techniques to do the job. It is quite awkward to remove the inner 6-mm mounting bolt/s using a chisel with the engine installed but I did it before. Try the basic tools firsts and if you don’t succeed, an easy-out stud extractor tool would be your next choice.

Tony

Looks like Tony has you covered on the bolts.

If you do try the JB weld, spray the bolt out with brake cleaner. Maybe use a dremel with one of those micro ball bits to scuff walls and bottom to increase mechanical adhesion.

Use a socket 6MM. You can get it out afterwards. JB Weld is very strong but it ain't super strong in a low surface area application. It will get the bolt out but then you can reef the socket allen out with bolt in a vice and then just wire brush the allen head. Good as new.

I love the JW extractors. Those are exactly what you need to do it like a pro wrench would. The next time you would need them would be 2029. :)

That extractor set that JW has looks awesome. Maybe I will order one for future use! One of the many issues with the location of the forward WUR bolt is the limited access due to the heater. So I can't use anything too tall, or a normal drill. I had the right combo of socket plus small extensions but access was still tight.

What about a sacrificial torx bit if a larger allen won't work?

Or a tiny triple square? Just something to bite.

The JW extractors are not that expensive. Snap-on, sure. But others exist.

Unfortunately I don’t have a total range of torx sockets so I’m not sure if I have the next size up but I’ll check. I assume the idea would be to just hammer it in? Unfortunately that might not be easy because of the lack of clearance with the heater.

With the bolt extractors, you can just use a standard socket wrench to thread the extractor bit in and once it bottoms out the rounded bolt starts turning and comes out? I’ve seen them before but never seen them used. I should probably check YouTube instead of asking you to explain it to me hahah.

Heater motors do come off.

True. But then I might just have to go all the way through with a heat backdate :)

Socket size needed.......
 

John,

Do you know what socket size is used for the smallest extractor in the red case? Thanks.

Tony