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Nicking 1st on the way to 3rd?

Hey Guys,

Still getting used to the 915. So far so good!!

The one issue I have other than working on my pacing of shifts is that occasionally I get a grind if I go from 2 to 3 but don't exaggerate the right throw in the neutral plane. That is, diagonal shift to 3 sometimes misses 3rd. Is this normal? Do I simply need to slow down and move up, right and up versus the rushed diagonal motion that sometimes nicks 1st?

Thanks,

Bryan
Old 07-11-2018, 05:37 AM
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Have you checked your shift coupler bushings and shift rod bushings? Could be time for a refresh. If you have verified all is good you might need a slight tweak of the shift coupler. I'd also recommend installing a Seine gate shift kit that creates a 1/2 shift gate. It spring loads the 1/2 just like 5/R. I installed one in my car and it's probably one of the best bang for the buck mods I have done.
Old 07-11-2018, 05:45 AM
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I agree with @cabmando. I replaced my shift rod bushings, installed a Wevo coupler and the Seine gate shift kit and haven't knicked a gear since.
Old 07-11-2018, 06:43 AM
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Should be no grinding or knicking at all with a 915, except getting into reverse from a stopped position (R is not synchronized.) Shift from 2-3 should be real easy. If there's a bugaboo on these 915s it is all in that 1-2 plane.

4-5 is one of the greatest shift feelings in my entire automotive experience, I don't know why...

Check your bushings and coupler for sure. Adjustment needed. If that doesn't fix things you may have bigger issues.
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Old 07-11-2018, 07:37 AM
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A writeup from Peter Zimmerman on initial adjustment of shift:

==============================

Initial coupler adjustment must be to set the shift lever vertical in the neutral position. When changing over to a short shifter that adjustment becomes more critical (it could have been set wrong for a while and not noticed).

Park the car on a clean, flat surface.

Remove the tunnel cover to expose the coupler.

Pull the shift lever boot up far enough to expose the bottom few inches of the shift lever from the bend down.

Open both doors, kneel on the floor outside the driver's side door and lean into the car head first. You probably will want to move the seat to the rear stop because you want your head almost under the steering wheel, and facing toward the shift lever.

Find a vertical object, a wall stud, wall corner, etc. (that you can see through the passenger door opening) so that you can sight between it and the shift lever. The lever will have a little play in it, move it fore and aft to determine its center, then compare it to your vertical object.

The lever must be vertical between the aluminum housing and the bend in the lever. If it's leaning to far forward or back, you have to loosen the clamp bolt at the coupler and make an appropriate adjustment.
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:22 AM
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+1 check your coupler for slop/wear.

For insurance, get the gate shift kit.
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:50 AM
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It pays to get a shifter with a well defined 3-4 plane with retining springs like Wevo's.

Last edited by adias; 07-11-2018 at 04:38 PM..
Old 07-11-2018, 02:34 PM
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I wouldn't touch the fore/aft adjustment. I'd start with slight (1 spline does wonders) rotational adjustment if it was my car IF! the coupler bushings are good. You'l be able to tell quickly if your coupler bushings are good by taking off the plate on the floor between the rear seats. If your bushings are bad, you might consider a Wevo coupler as I have heard they are somewhat easier to adjust. I personally have brass bushings in my coupler that I installed myself. If your bushings are bad and you decide to remove the coupler, take a paint pen and mark the location of the coupler on the spline shaft so you have some reference on where to start when you install the coupler with new bushings.
Old 07-11-2018, 03:41 PM
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Typically two reasons for this (three if you count general incompetence with clutch/shifter, hand/eye coordination and/or trying to shift too fast. The first was already addressed. That is adjusting the linkage. Of course the adjustment does not compensate for bad bushings on the shifter or the coupler and both should be checked and replaced if necessary. The second thing that causes some problems is strictly a problem with the length of the shifter and variances due to driver size, arm length, etc. especially if you have an aftermarket unit like Weltmeister. In the past, folks have added short extensions to these that have been helpful. I have one on my Ď74.

Aftermarket solutions such as shifters and couplers are nice, but the factory equipment works quite well for normal/street duty. Aftermarket solutions would be used after mastering shifting and ensuring that everything is in good repair/adjustment. You donít want to mask mechanical or technique problems with a blunt force solution.
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Last edited by fintstone; 07-12-2018 at 02:53 AM..
Old 07-12-2018, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabmando View Post
I wouldn't touch the fore/aft adjustment. I'd start with slight (1 spline does wonders) rotational adjustment if it was my car IF! the coupler bushings are good. You'l be able to tell quickly if your coupler bushings are good by taking off the plate on the floor between the rear seats. If your bushings are bad, you might consider a Wevo coupler as I have heard they are somewhat easier to adjust. I personally have brass bushings in my coupler that I installed myself. If your bushings are bad and you decide to remove the coupler, take a paint pen and mark the location of the coupler on the spline shaft so you have some reference on where to start when you install the coupler with new bushings.
How did you install the brass bushings? I bought a set but gave up on trying to install them without a press. I can't even get the pin out of the original. I tried tapping it out with a steel rod but I was going to deform or break before getting loose.
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Old 07-12-2018, 10:15 AM
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OK, after review of all the suggestions I am going to:

1. Replace shift linkage bushings and new coupler.
2. Install the Seine Gate Shifter
3. Install WEVO or Rennshift.

Does it make sense to replace coupler bushings or simply buy a new coupler with bushings installed?

If the gate shifter doesn't cure the problems, would it then be useless if I go to an entirely new shifter (WEVO or Renn)?

Thanks!

Bryan
Old 07-19-2018, 08:58 AM
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Hold on there cowboy! First thing I'd do is check the coupler bushings at the back. If they're shot, figure your shift rod bushing and ball cup on the shifter is shot. The WEVO is a replacement shift coupler. They also make a complete shifter for the car but if you install the Seine gate shift solution you won't need the WEVO shifter. When you do the shift rod bushing and cup bushing you'll pull the shifter out so that would be the time to install the Seine gate shift kit.
Now, I replaced bushings on my own coupler. In fact, I did it twice since I had two couplers and wanted to test the brass bushings. I did the other with delrin bushings but never installed it since I liked the brass. Plenty of howto videos online for rebuilding the coupler. Others highly recommend the WEVO coupler because it's supposed to be a better design and easier to adjust. I can't speak to either since I don't own one.
But before you go spending a lot of money, first make sure the coupler bushings are shot. It could just need a slight adjustment.
Edit: To check the coupler, you want to watch the pin in the center that you can see on the end. If you see movement of the pin inside the bushings you'll want to either rebuild the coupler, send it out to be rebuilt or purchase the Wevo coupler.

Last edited by cabmando; 07-19-2018 at 04:00 PM..
Old 07-19-2018, 03:30 PM
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I should have mentioned that the work would take place in a step-wise progression, starting with 1 and then moving up the list assuming I'm not happy with the results at each point.

I'll look at the coupler first and report back.

Thanks!

BK
Old 07-20-2018, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryankloos View Post
I should have mentioned that the work would take place in a step-wise progression, starting with 1 and then moving up the list assuming I'm not happy with the results at each point.

I'll look at the coupler first and report back.

Thanks!

BK
If you aren't sure on the coupler, post a pic and I'm sure someone will chime in!
Old 07-20-2018, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QueWhy View Post
How did you install the brass bushings? I bought a set but gave up on trying to install them without a press. I can't even get the pin out of the original. I tried tapping it out with a steel rod but I was going to deform or break before getting loose.
Sorry! I just noticed your question. The smartass reply would be "very carefully" but it's the honest answer too. I took my time and installed them the same way I installed my other delrin set. I guess I wasn't too worried about messing things up since I had a spare coupler either way. I used a socket the same size as the coupler od and drove the pin out using light taps and some penetrating oil to get things to slide a bit easier.
Old 07-20-2018, 11:02 AM
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