CV Joint Repacking ?'s
 

One of the boots on my half-shafts has finally cracked and leaking. I have had the replacement boots and lube for some time waiting for (and dreading - see question 1) this event. Now that I have the half shaft off, a few questions:
1) How do you get the freaking monster circlips off? Even the largest, most robust circlip plier I have found is no match for the clip. Are there any secrets out there?
2) What specifically does repacking the CV with grease entail? Any particular method, or just make sure the joint is totally cleaned and thoroughly re-lubricated with the new grease?
3) I have heard that reversing the joint on replacement makes for more even wear - but have also heard you simply reverse the half-shaft end for end and also swapping left and right half-shafts. Is there a preferred method or do all work?

Thanks,

Greasy hands in Southern California

1. You need the proper toll for these snap-rings. I have a set but they don't have a name on them. Measure the snap ring hole diameter and check out some tool suppliers. Check out http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/search.taf and type in snap ring and you'll get to see some larger sized pliers.

2. Get as much of the grease provided in you kit as you can into the assembly. Some of the lube will just fill a void, and some will actually circulate around the bearing. By putting as much of the provided grease in the joint/boot, you insure that the bearings will not go dry.

3. I don’t believe in reversing CV joints. If they are worn, replace them.

My ’72 911T suffered a tremendous CV Joint failure before I owned it. It must have cleared house around the transmission at one time. It beat the heck out of the heat exchanger and who knows what else. My point is that this is not one of those items you really want to skimp on. If you try to mix-up parts to decrease tolerances, you may be accelerating the wear on these points and opening tolerances in other places.

It sure does make a mess, doesn't it...

I changed the boots on my '91 C2 late last year and the CV's had 100,000 miles and there was no perceived slop at all.

I replaced one boot in my sons ’93 Nissan Altima two weekends ago, and that outer CV joint was tight! It had 139,000 miles on the speedo and I’m sure that these were the originals.

The CV Joint is a great design, isn’t it…

Keith

I start with a monster set of circlip tools.

They can be disassembled for cleaning. Be careful with the reassembly. If you aren't sure of what you are doing, you can take them apart and clean them. Any shop that does front wheel drive work like your local Rockford dealer can slip them back together for you and reband them. They also stock parts for your joints. I use CV joint grease from TSC, (Tractor Supply Company).
The farmers have been using CV joints in the worst possible environments for a long time.

Good luck,
David Duffield

the CV joint may be pressing on the circlip

try giving a couple gentle whacks with a soft hammer to get it away from the circlip...it is pretty tight tolerances

Also if you use excessive force on the clip get a new one...you don't want to mess up your drive train over a 1.00 piece of hardware

MJ

Re: CV Joint Repacking ?'s
 

"more even wear" does work.. assuming the CV is OK.. check for pitting on the ball seat.. and of course excessive play.. some play is OK.. it's not like it's a high torque drag strip motor.. use good grease.. do a search on what most of the guys use.

old_porsche has the right attitude, IMO. there are a few good greases around.. I use a Mobil Special grease, no one else around here does.. but if it's good enough for off road industrial rigs with 10 foot wheels, it's good enough for me.. problem is that it's only supplied in 50lb containers............... Ron

Thanks for all of your advice.

Funny, I've got two harbor freight locations within 5 miles, and I never think of them unless I'm looking for air or hydraulic stuff. Monster circlip pliers it is.

I really don't expect to find any wear, movement seems pretty smooth while working at removing the circlips. For the application ('72T, 180hp motor) these cv joints are pretty robust.

I am planning to use the Moly grease that came in 4 portion control tubes with the rest of the kit. If I had a 50# can of the stuff, I would end up with 5# in each joint and 30# on me.

Thanks again!