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shh-the robot is sleeping
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 501
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What did I do to my paint?
Original paint since ‘88. I hope I did not screw it up. Yesterday I had my car on the driveway as I worked on another car in the garage. It was hot and about to rain so, I put on the car cover. It’s a high quality cover with a cotton inner lining and silver reflective outer layer. My guess is that it was pretty hot and the cover damaged the paint prior to the storm.
Anyway, as I mentioned, it is the original paint. What can I do to restore it? My go-to polish and hand wax yielded no perceptible result. The damage in the pics below looks like clouds in the reflection. It is actuallly a cloudy white impression in the paint itself. ![]()
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'88 911 Coupe, 69k miles |
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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You might be able to correct it with a Clay bar followed by polish and wax.
Or check with a local detailer. This link might provide some more info. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/how-to-remove-cloudy-spots-from-paint.284420/ Good luck, hope you get it cleared up.
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John D. 82 911 SC Targa-Rosewood 2012 Golf TDI |
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Location: I be home in CA
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I use this for water marks. Works Great.
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Dan |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Like GothingNC says, touch base with a detailer.
May be a good time to drop $300 (+?) and have them kiss the whole car, providing they know what they are doing. That's assurance work on your part to research. Anybody can put a wool pad on your car and make it shine. There is a cost if they go too heavy.
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1981 911SC Targa Last edited by Bob Kontak; 07-15-2018 at 04:08 PM.. |
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shh-the robot is sleeping
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 501
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Thanks Danimal16, I would not say this is a water spot in the typical sense. At least is not like one I have ever seen before. It looks like more of a wide, white, milky residue.
It reminds me of what happened to an antique wooden end table after a baby sitter placed a hot pizza box on it for a few hours. That needed to be stripped and re-oiled...
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'88 911 Coupe, 69k miles |
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shh-the robot is sleeping
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 501
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Bob, I would like to learn what a professional detailed would do. Personally, I would prefer to spend the money on the supplies and learn the technique through research.
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'88 911 Coupe, 69k miles |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Quote:
Listen and let them sell you the compounds they suggest. Wimpy cut with a wheel is what you need.
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1981 911SC Targa |
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Paint has reacted with the chemicals used on the inner cotton on the cover.
Try to wash the cover and you will see a lot of foam mixed with water. The sun and hot has accelerated the reaction. You sayd it's the original paint so I'll be quite sure it can be fixable ... original paint is very hard. You only have one way to cure this (as said wash and clay the paint this will not fix the defect but will avoid scratching the paint), then with a DUAL ACTION POLISHER (!!!!) try to simply polish the paint with a polishing pad and a good polisher. If this do not help try compounding it. Personally I can suggest v36/v38 from chemical guys or a "ultimate polish" from Meguiars
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911 2.4T from 1973 Gemini Metallic Blue |
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If the cover does not allow evaporation bad things happen. I had the same problem on a metallic car and could never get that milky reaction out. Same thing happens with bras.
Take it to an expert.
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1973 911S (since new) RS MFI specs 1991 C2 Turbo |
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Take it to a pro if your normal processes don't work. Original factory paint on a classic 911 is not the place to learn on. It is only original once. Learn on a beater.
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74 Targa 3.0, 89 Carrera, 04 Cayenne Turbo http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/fintstone/ "The problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money" Some are born free. Some have freedom thrust upon them. Others simply surrender |
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Same thing happens when you use plastic sheeting to cover a wet car when it goes into the Spray booth.
The plastic has chemicals that when combined with water,no area to evaporate and heat of a bake cycle will leave a milky water stain. Best way to remove is color sanding with 1500 to 2000 grit wet sand paper and cut polishing back. A lot of work but it WILL be permanently gone. |
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The 9 Store
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wilmington, DE
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We have a guy who buffs out paint on new and old paint jobs. It’s something you can do yourself but a pro like our guy has already “practiced” on at least one hundred cars. It’s like a pro painter vs diy. Practice does help to make perfect.
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All used parts sold as is. |
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Your paint is likely single stage - very sensitive to any chemicals. No alcohol and certainly no acetone can touch it.
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![]() WalMart or any good auto parts store. I swear. By this stuff! You will need to buff out after the 3M A good cleaner wax will work |
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Go to auto geek.net and read tutorials on paintwork. Using the three below with a DA will leave you a great finish with great protection. After the German sealer klasse you can leave it or apply a carnuba wax over it. Pretty simple procedure, use a orange pade with the cut and a white pad with the 205.
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Checkout Chemical guys or Ammo NYC. They both have videos on detailing and paint correction. I just bought some of the chemical guys products and I like them so far. I just finished using their clay bar and plan to use there v38 compound and butter wax with a DA polisher.
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Get an expert
I had a very similar incident years ago with my then 1984 Guards Red 944. I attempted fixing with overly aggressive compounds and totally ruined the finish.
Moral: As others have said, find an expert, show him the car (NOT just pictures of it) and then make a determination as to how to proceed. There is finite risk of over-the-Internet diagnosis, whether well-intended or not.
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1958 356A - Sold to a rust collector 1978 924 - sold to a sewing machine repairman 1984 944 - meticulously maintained but everything except the drivetrain self-destroyed. Used in trade for my wife's MB 1988 Carrera 3.2 Targa - purchased in 1992 and still thriving. Boy, do I love this car |
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Brew Master
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My guess is you steamed your paint. I like the Meguiars products DP suggested. If you're not good with a buffer, I'd suggest taking it to a pro. If you're not careful, you can burn through on that body line in the hood. The original paint is pretty durable and can withstand a slight scuff and buff which would possibly take that out if it's just a surface blemish.
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