Some advice on chin spoiler installation (pics!)

[aways]

I just finished installing a used chin spoiler on my '87 Targa, and I thought I'd share some experiences (in 10 easy? steps). I decided to install without removing the front valence from the car (next time probably would remove the valence). Below, I'll give, in outline form, my procedure.

1) raise the front end. I used drive-up ramps, which I recommend for their ease of use and their stability. Just remember to leave the car in 1st gear, apply the parking brake, and place a block of wood behind the rear wheels.




2) If your car has an air conditioning evaporator up front, then you'll have to remove the metal bar that protects it.
It is connected by two large bolts on either side, and by a small bolt accessible from the fron of the trunk (see pics).





3) Next, mark the positions of the where the embedded studs on each end of the chin spoiler will go through the ends of the valence. I made a template out of a thin piece of cardboard to aid in the process.




4) Drill holes with a 5/16 bit and install ends of chin spoiler securing with a washer + lock washer and a 6mm nut (10 mm wrench).





5) Support middle of spoiler with spring binder clamps, and prepare to drill holes. I used a 5/16 drill, and erred on the side of drilling the holes slightly toward the center of the car (i.e. towards the rear). The mounting brackets fit better this way.




6) Attach the mounting clamps. This is TOUGH, as there is very little room to get your fingers in to place the nuts. Also, tightening with the 10mm wrench is a b-i-itch. I was only able to get enough room to secure the outer four brackets (two on each side). The three in the center were essentially impossible to place given the cramped space. I did manage to get a middle clamp in place by punching out the stud from the clamp and using a carriage bolt in its place. That enabled me to place the bolt downward, and secure the nut from below. I didn't think it was necessary to use the final two brackets on either side of the middle. I did however use a couple of 1/4"X1" carriage bolts on each side near the ends for added support. I used a spray grease to lubricate the freshly drilled holes to offer some rust protection. Summary advice: If I had it to do all over again, I would have removed the metal cage that surrounds the evaporator, or I would have removed the valence.




7) Reattach the air condo evaporator's protective bar, and drive car off ramps....

8) Finished installation:




9) Double-check that all bolts are tight, but not too tight, as you may damage the rubber.

10) Consume the requisite 1-3 beers.

Epilogue: The job took me longer than I expected given that I was up and down looking for tools and hardware far more than I should have had to (I'm not terribly organized). Also, I like to work methodically, double and triple checking everything before proceding. Working on my back -- up and down -- for 4 hours is hard on me at my age. I must of done hundreds of "sit-ups" during the procedure All-in-all, though, a fun time!

[livi]

Great write up ! It will come in very handy for anyone contemplating that project.

I need to get those drive-up ramps. Looks very comfortable compared to the hassle with jacking and stands that are always interfering with the working space.

[lfot]

Due to your experience, looks like I'll be taking off the valence.
Excellent instructions though! I'll be taking on this job later this week. Can't wait now.

[Zef]

Very nice job...Thanks for sharing !!!

[azasadny]

Looks great! Thanks for the tips!

[skinnerd]

When I did this on my long-gone 75 US Carrera, I removed the valence for easier access.
It was still a fussy job from what I remember, but not nearly as bad as being upside down with virtually no finger or arm access.
Looks like you did a great job....
Think it would have been a 6 beer job for me though.

[lfot]

Just completed this project, and I love the look!

However... the "dogbone" nylon spacers that come with the kit are useless. If you get this kit, try using them. I wasn't able to get the bolts from the chin spoiler to clear the nylon spacers. Ditched them and just used the washers and bolts. Everything is tight, and I'm very happy with the installation.

My 2 cents.

[schleg79]

Excellent write-up. But shouldn't step #10 have been tep #1 (and #4, and #7..)?

Thanks for the post - I've bookmarked it for future reference.

[widgeon13]

Followed your recommendation and completed the job yesterday w/ a couple of minor changes. On the chin spoiler retaining hardware, (4 that are in front of the AC condensor) I drilled them out so they could be used w/ bolts to distribute the load across the rubber as they are ment to be used. Only problem was that when completed the ramps were going to hit the chin spoiler when backing off so I ended up jacking the car from the sides and pulling the ramps from beneath the front wheels. PITA but no major issues.

[Kroggers]

Originally posted by livi
I need to get those drive-up ramps. Looks very comfortable compared to the hassle with jacking and stands that are always interfering with the working space.

I would make sure your car is not to low. I went to Micro and got a set, and the angel is to step for my car So when I try to drive up them the bottom of the chin spoiler just pushes the ramps along the floor
At some point I will make some additional extensions to lengthen the run-up on the ramps, so that my car can get up...

[ZOA NOM]

Great job. You should notice greater stability at high speed. I can't tell if you car has a tail, but the chin spoiler really helps in combination with a tail. If you do have a tail, you should really see a significant change, since the tail should always be accompanied with the chin spoiler.

[Miguel Antonett]

It looks great!

[NY65912]

FWIW....when I changed out the front spoiler on my turbolook it was a royal PITA. Using a ratcheting box wrench helps out a great deal.

Removing the guard around the ac condenser and protective bar is a must.

[Cattler]

This thread's a bit old, but I found it to be very good--so here are some of my tips and another photo or two.

1. I did not remove the valence, but did get the front of the car up on jack stands. I was able to get under the car alright without jacking it up. I wasn't able to drill the holes (not enough clearance for the drill and bit) without it on stands.

2. Definitely remove the protective cage and bar. There's no way you could possibly get this job done (with the valence on the car) without taking these parts off. I used this opportunity to remove some surface rust and paint black satin.

3. Small vise grips are your best friends in this job. I tried the bulldog clip technique as others suggested and found them somewhat useful, but the vise grip could really pinch the rubber and the valence together like nothing else. Its also very easy to tighten and loosen them. Here's a pic so you know what I mean--I used both types in this picture, but the one on the right was best to use to hold things in place to drill. I moved them as I went from hole to hole.



4. This thread recommended using a 5/16" drill bit in step 5. I went a different route--5/32" bit for a pilot hole and then a 1/4" bit for the final hole. This is very close to the size of the bolts.

5. I put blue painters tape on the sides of the valence before making the marks and drilling the holes. This prevented the paint from getting scratched up while I triple-checked the hole alignment and made me less concerned about slipping while drilling.

6. Check your valence for dents or a bent interior lip before starting. I had a dent I should have seen on the driver's side. I figured it out, but if you have a bad one, you might find the rubber won't align properly or the bolts won't be long enough.

7. Wayne's book was the only source showing the proper hardware order.

8. It doesn't look like the removed A/c protective parts will go back--they will. Here's a shot with everything back together.



9. Lastly, I'd gone ~10 months with only the rear Carrera tail installed. For those doubting it, you can feel a huge difference in the car's handling after installing the front spoiler--and that's just on the road.

David

[trader220]

I have done this a number of times on several cars and I second David's advice above, I had success very easily with some small clamps or vice grips you can skip the templet phase all together. I clamped it up so it was set right and drilled my holes no sweat.

[Cattler]

Oh, and one more thing. As has been my experience, when Wayne says the job takes 2 hours, I should double it. This one took me 4 hours with an overnight break and I consumed three beers total.

[Eclectic911]

I took off the valance, & it only took one beer to attach
the chip spoiler...maybe I drink to slow.

[theiceman]

i noticed i only have 7 mounting plates in the kit . I assume these go on the front and on the curves I just use washers and the 4 bolts ? I will definitely remove the valance as it will be an opportunity to get it painted, and it is kinda cold out this tim eof year

[theiceman]

here is a pic of all the hardware i got

[paulgtr]

that's alot of nuts and washers. but only 4 bolts?