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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75 911s View Post
Welcome and I look forward to seeing the updates. I love the rendering! Well, except for the sugar scoops, but you said you were going to replace those so it works out. I think the color scheme with the 52's will look amazing. I like the offset stripes. The SCRS bumper is the prettiest impact bumper replacement option going.

BTW your garage is super sanitary! Is there a Cobra build thread somewhere on another forum? Would love to check it out. They are really fun cars. There seem to be a ton of pilots that drive 911's. I know of 2 in our local group alone but I recall an off topic thread of pilots on here somewhere.

Thanks. Here is the Cobra thread. It is quite long!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21312-Wareaglescott-s-Coyote-build-thread
Old 08-25-2018, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Travis Neff View Post
The grey color on the cobra looks great, what is the color called?
Thanks.
That is a GM color called Dark Labyrinth
Old 08-25-2018, 11:11 AM
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Engine Removal

Got the motor out today. Lots of people ask me how long it took to build the Cobra and I have no idea so I am keeping a log this time. Took me about 13.25 hours to get the motor out. I am really spending a lot of time documenting how it is coming apart in hopes that when it is time to put it back together I will be very organized. Also bagging, labeling and organizing parts in bins as well as making a list of what is in each bin so I can find everything when it goes back together. Lastly I am doing a lot of photo documentation of what things should look like assembled. All that process is taking a long time but that is ok because I have no timetable on this project.

I was a little nervous doing this for the first time and stopped a lot to read forum posts on how to do things and ask questions. (thanks Jeff and Tim) Once I got everything unhooked and it was time to lower the motor I had my ATV jack under the motor and a regular jack under the transmission. Had my neighbor buddy come work the jack under the transmission and we slowly manipulated the jacks as well as raised the 2 post lift and it all came apart nicely. It was one of those things that I was unsure about doing and took a long time but next time will be so much easier. Just part of the normal learning curve.

Did have 2 small issues during the removal. Didn't realize the passenger side CV axle had gotten in the way a bit when I was lowing the motor. It kind of got pinned in there and when I pulled it free a couple bearings came out. I was planning to replace them anyways so no biggie I guess. Secondly I somehow missed a cable to the drivers side of the transmission. I am not sure if this is for the accelerator or clutch. Either way it got pulled a good bit. Not sure if any damage was done. I will need to investigate that further.

Next plan is to get the transmission separated and the motor up on the engine stand. I probably wont address a lot on the motor in the near future as I plan to work more on general disassembly and getting the body ready for paint.

Here are a few pictures and the obligatory selfie of me inside the empty engine compartment!




Old 09-10-2018, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddetch View Post
I love the commitment to your War Eagle colors! (Good luck except for Nov 3 - Gig 'Em!)
^
X2 I'll be there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
Since the guy asking used the term equipment and has flyboy in his name I figured he would get it.
^
As the son of a life long "A" and chief pilot I was following along perfectly Scott.

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Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
Engine Removal

^
Well done Scott..... don't worry it always takes a bit longer the first time. Glad your bagging stuff. it sure helped me.

Congrats
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Old 09-11-2018, 07:35 AM
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Bagging is good, taking lots of pictures is also good! Glad to hear that you got it apart safely! And, don't forget to put a big piece of plastic under your engine stand. It will drip lots of oil during disassembly even if you drain the sump carefully!
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Old 09-11-2018, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by fred cook View Post
Bagging is good, taking lots of pictures is also good! Glad to hear that you got it apart safely! And, don't forget to put a big piece of plastic under your engine stand. It will drip lots of oil during disassembly even if you drain the sump carefully!
Good tip Fred and thanks for sending the checklist. It was very helpful.
Old 09-11-2018, 02:35 PM
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Small amount of progress today.
Need to get the motor up on the stand. While I was thinking about the weight of the motor I decided I could figure out how much it weighed since I have corner scales and weighed the car before I started.

My before weight was 2698. I figured About 70 lbs of gas so empty weight of 2628.
Put the car on the scales without the drivetrain and it now weighs 1923.

That puts the motor and tranny at about 705 lbs minus whatever the oil weighed since it is now drained out and was in the initial weight. That also includes the AC compressor (19lbs) and smog pump (10lbs)

Then I pulled the transmission and it weighs 122lbs and the starter is another 13lbs.

That leaves the motor at 570 lbs give or take. With that being said those numbers don't mean much but I am sort of a data geek so like knowing.

After that I looked to hook up my apparatus to mount it in the engine stand and see that I have some interference within the exhaust system. (part circled in green in the pic) Those bolts would not budge so I called it a day after soaking in PB blaster. Will let that sit and continue at my next opportunity. Likely I could just cut that piece out as I intend to upgrade the exhaust but I want to have a more firm plan of exactly what I want to get before destroying any parts.





Old 09-14-2018, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
If you donít like it just donít click on it. That makes it easy for me to find vs some ambiguous 79 title that there are already multiple variations of.
love the bright trim.
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Old 09-14-2018, 09:00 PM
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So many of these wonderful Porches are going to collectors, people less hands on, and those willing to just write a check to get a job done. It is a pleasure to see the progress you have made in making this one your own. Glad to see it working so well for you.

I think this is the one you purchased just 30 minutes from my home in PA, right?

That said, I would be prepared to use some heat on those bolts. I have been frustrated by them still after a long soak in PB.

Iíve also found that 1 part kerosene to 1 part boiled linseed oil works magic.

Keep up the good work!
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Old 09-15-2018, 04:19 AM
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Removing heat exchangers..........

Don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but getting the nuts that hold the exhausts to the cylinder heads off can be a real #@%^&! They are hard to access and, because of rust, will break the studs if you are not careful. On one side of my engine, I used a sawzall to cut the down pipes to get the heat exchanger out of the way. Some people use a dremel cutting wheel to split the nuts, some use a propane torch and lots of penetrating oil. Even being careful, I broke 3 studs the first time I removed the heat exchangers! If you go the torch route, heat the nuts until cherry red. You might have to heat them several times to overcome 40 years of rust! When I put my engine back together, I used stainless steel studs and copper nuts. Also, I put the exhausts back on the engine while it was on the engine stand and upside down! Much easier than doing it under the car! Good luck!
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Old 09-15-2018, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by da Vinci Dan View Post
So many of these wonderful Porches are going to collectors, people less hands on, and those willing to just write a check to get a job done. It is a pleasure to see the progress you have made in making this one your own. Glad to see it working so well for you.

I think this is the one you purchased just 30 minutes from my home in PA, right?

That said, I would be prepared to use some heat on those bolts. I have been frustrated by them still after a long soak in PB.

Iíve also found that 1 part kerosene to 1 part boiled linseed oil works magic.

Keep up the good work!
Ya sure is the one I talked to you about that was local to you. Thanks for the compliment
Old 09-19-2018, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by fred cook View Post
Don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but getting the nuts that hold the exhausts to the cylinder heads off can be a real #@%^&! They are hard to access and, because of rust, will break the studs if you are not careful. On one side of my engine, I used a sawzall to cut the down pipes to get the heat exchanger out of the way. Some people use a dremel cutting wheel to split the nuts, some use a propane torch and lots of penetrating oil. Even being careful, I broke 3 studs the first time I removed the heat exchangers! If you go the torch route, heat the nuts until cherry red. You might have to heat them several times to overcome 40 years of rust! When I put my engine back together, I used stainless steel studs and copper nuts. Also, I put the exhausts back on the engine while it was on the engine stand and upside down! Much easier than doing it under the car! Good luck!
Thanks Fred. I have rotated the motor and have them soaking now. Nervous about those bolts coming off clean for the exhaust for sure!!
Old 09-19-2018, 12:34 PM
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Making some more progress on the engine teardown. Got the CIS fuel injection system off the car in one big piece. Some bolts a little tricky to access but it all came off cleanly.

After that I spun the motor upside down to work on getting the exhaust off. I have some pretty seriously rusted bolts and want to take great caution not to break them. I have them soaking in penetrating oil for a few days before I attempt that. I also removed the catalytic converter. That wont be going back on. Glad I live in the land of free emissions. I intend to upgrade the exhaust to something sportier but do not know what yet so I doubt any of the exhaust components I take off will go back on.

Ordered my bumpers and will be ordering my wheels this week.

I have a friend in town that owns a body shop and has recently started wrapping cars. I went by and visited him and learned a little more about wraps. Briefly considered it but sort of feel like that would be falling short if I did that. Also he indicated the wrap was only good for about 5 years. I just could not take opening the doors on my gray car and seeing red door jams and such. However I am considering doing the stripes in vinyl after the car is painted. There are a few pros to this. One it would be more cost effective I believe. Two when it comes time to sell the car I could take them off if the buyer did not care for the orange accents. Of course I am going to have expensive wheels with orange accents and am planning on doing the engine tins powder coated in orange so that will still be there but not so in your face as the stripes. Gonna give some more thought to that.

Having a great time with this project. Progress is slow but enjoyable. I really am learning each step as I go so pretty much stop and research on the forum and ask questions a lot before proceeding.
Will continue stripping the motor down and then will evaluate how to proceed on that. My biggest problem now is I can see I am going to have a space problem storing all the parts as they come off the car. My sweet wife is very understanding with my car hobby but if storage bins and parts start making it indoors there could be trouble!!

Here are some pics. I circled the rusty exhaust bolts I am soaking. One is the vinyl sample next to my paint spray out sample. Virtually the same color so that could work just fine.

A couple questions I would appreciate some input on. I notice on those exhaust nuts half of them (1 of 2 on each) are the 8mm hex heads and the others are normal bolts/nuts. As I do not know the history of this motor it has me curious. I believe they should have all been hex head bolts in the past. Is it a bad sign that half are normal nuts?
As I get deeper into removing the external components of the engine and can get a better look at it is there something I could look for or some sign to be able to tell if the engine has been completely apart before? I noticed when I took the muffler and catalytic converter off those nuts were considerably newer looking so obviously they have been off somewhat recently.


Thanks for reading and any input!






Old 09-19-2018, 12:47 PM
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The Allen head nuts are there since access is through the holes in the heat exchangers.
Typically there are six Allen and six hex.

Use plenty of liquid wrench and let them soak. If they don't break loose at first use a torch to heat them.

Patience will pay off when removing these. Replacing a broken stud is not fun.
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Old 09-19-2018, 02:26 PM
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I recommend you stuff some clean rags in your intake holes when/if you rotate your motor back so the fan shroud is up.
might not matter if your going to rebuild the engine. I fished a part out of mine recently

Last edited by mike sampsel; 09-19-2018 at 02:42 PM.. Reason: augment
Old 09-19-2018, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mike sampsel View Post
I recommend you stuff some clean rags in your intake holes when/if you rotate your motor back so the fan shroud is up.
might not matter if your going to rebuild the engine. I fished a part out of mine recently
Thanks Mike. I took that pic right after the CIS came off and shortly after put rags in the holes. I have a lot of photo documentation going on for my instagram addiction and put that in my story before filling the holes.(@scottscobra if anyone is interested)
Thanks for looking out for me though.
Old 09-19-2018, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Trackrash View Post
The Allen head nuts are there since access is through the holes in the heat exchangers.
Typically there are six Allen and six hex.

Use plenty of liquid wrench and let them soak. If they don't break loose at first use a torch to heat them.

Patience will pay off when removing these. Replacing a broken stud is not fun.
Thanks. Gonna let them sit for a couple days. Prob reapply the oil again also. Will be careful with them.
Old 09-19-2018, 03:03 PM
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Scott,

Great write up so far. I wish I had taken more photos during my build. My wife will be the first to say that I am not a picture person.

I have zero issue with your thought process regarding the vinyl stripes. Wheels can always be redone. Anyone who would be a buyer on your car would be looking at the quality and price. It is not going to be a guy looking for a deal. Redoing a set of wheels are not going to be a stumbling block.

Sent you over a couple of pics regarding the brakes.
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Old 09-19-2018, 04:12 PM
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Old 09-20-2018, 04:35 PM
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Very interesting- great job so far. I’m planning on dropping my engine in the future at some point too, although my garage setup is nowhere near as nice as yours. I’m jealous!
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Old 09-21-2018, 08:11 AM
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