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Engine teardown continues.
I successfully removed the exhaust manifold heat exchangers. Studs and nuts were all rusted up pretty badly. Managed to get 8 of 12 out clean. 3 studs remain in the block undamaged and 1 stud broke. Will continue to work on getting those out.
Also removed all the smog system components. Those will not be going on.

I removed the valve covers on the bottom of the motor and verified my head studs are in good shape. I was very pleased to see that! (disregard the numbers on the pictures. That is part of my organization and documentation of how I am taking things apart so I can get it all back together!)

Enjoying taking things apart. Have most of the components removed from the engine block now and can start to evaluate and figure out a plan moving forward.

Here are a couple pictures. If anyone sees anything of significance please point it out.






Old 09-22-2018, 09:41 AM
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Awesome progress Scott.
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Old 09-22-2018, 10:40 AM
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A couple of things...........

Noticed that the engine has the two piece oil return lines. A good indication that the either a PO fixed an oil leak or that the engine has been apart before. Also, the easiest way to get a broken exhaust stud out is to use a propane torch to heat the head inside the exhaust port as close to the stud as possible. Using propane will preclude damaging the head but will get it hot enough to melt the thread locking compound and/or expand the head enough to be able to turn out the broken stud. When I rebuilt my engine, I had to replace all the exhaust studs in the Carrera cylinder heads and this method worked perfectly. Great progress! Keep up the good work!
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Old 09-23-2018, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fred cook View Post
Noticed that the engine has the two piece oil return lines. A good indication that the either a PO fixed an oil leak or that the engine has been apart before. Also, the easiest way to get a broken exhaust stud out is to use a propane torch to heat the head inside the exhaust port as close to the stud as possible. Using propane will preclude damaging the head but will get it hot enough to melt the thread locking compound and/or expand the head enough to be able to turn out the broken stud. When I rebuilt my engine, I had to replace all the exhaust studs in the Carrera cylinder heads and this method worked perfectly. Great progress! Keep up the good work!
Great tip. Thanks Fred!
Old 09-23-2018, 03:57 AM
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Had an opportunity to work on the car again.

Still working on the exhaust stud removal. I had 3 that were stuck pretty good but fully intact and one that was broken. Got the 3 out that were not broken using a combination of heat, penetrating oil and stud extractor bit. The last one I can not get the stud extractor on because the case interferes with it.

At this point now that I have verified all my head studs are good I am leaning towards not doing a full overhaul of the motor. It ran quite nicely before I pulled it out of the car, did not seem to burn much oil and minimally leaked. As the records were destroyed in its past I really do not know exactly what has been done to the motor. I know the way I go about things if I send it off I will end up going way overboard and go crazy on spending. I am not sure that I want to tackle a full build on my own at this point either. For now I would like to clean everything up, address any work I think I can accomplish, upgrade the exhaust system, consider a different method of fuel delivery, already have removed the smog system and then after the paint and body work is done put it back in the car and run with it like that for a while. If I am not satisfied I can then just pull it back out again and go full build. (that might also help me spread out the spending and total length of the project. I know ultimately I will have way to much money in the car and wont want to sell it and my wife might start to get aggravated when I move on to the next car and try to justify keeping this one along with my other 3 cars. lol. Longer duration project is not necessarily a bad thing!)

With that being said I am trying very hard to get this broken stud out cleanly so I do not need any machining to occur to get it out. After soliciting input it seems the best chance of success is welding a nut onto the remaining threads and turning it out (Not enough threads left to use the two nut method). I do not weld so I am having a mechanic friend come over Sunday with his welder and hopefully we can take care of that last stud. Then I can move forward with more engine work.

In the meantime I have ordered my bumpers from Rothsport racing. I opted for the EB Motorsports front and rear fiberglass bumpers after looking around for a bit. They are due to be delivered tomorrow. Today I took the rear bumper off in preparation for that. Came off quite easily. Was not really sure how the new bumpers will attach without seeing them yet so I am anxious to see the fit when they show up. The reviews indicate the fit is quite good out of the box.

I weighed all the parts I removed including the bumper shocks and they came in at a whooping 49.4 pounds for just the rear. Those shocks are quite heavy. I believe I can replace those with a lighter crush tube. Need to look into that.

Here are pics of my broken stud with a bolt sitting in position waiting to be welded in place and also the obligatory shot with the bumper off.

Input is always appreciated. Thanks for reading.
Biggest problem at this point I can see is parts storage. Don't know what to do with that darn bumper!!


Old 09-27-2018, 02:13 PM
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Check and see if the lower head studs are magnetic. If not, they are the dilivar studs and will break at some point in the future. You can replace the lower studs with a set of the steel studs for just a few $$$. Good insurance. Getting them out is easy, heat the block inside the spigot next to where the stud screws in (just like the exhaust studs). Once heated enough they will turn right out. When you put the new studs back in, make sure to get them all at the correct height, otherwise you will have problems with the head nuts seating too deep on the studs when torqued.
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Old 09-27-2018, 06:22 PM
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More work today.
Removed the rocker panels, headlights, foglights and front bumper. Passenger side rocker has some slight damage. Looks like someone tried to jack it at the wrong location. Also picked up my new front and rear bumpers from the shipper. Need to figure out how those will fit and how much mounting and bodywork will be required.
I am finding it interesting as I continue to remove parts to see how far the red paint goes. Whoever did the repaint clearly had the car pretty far apart. Very pleased with the condition of everything as it is coming apart. Feeling pretty good at this point that I purchased a good starting point. (either that or I purchased a great starting point and I am a moron for pulling it apart)

Quickly running out of space to store big parts!



Old 09-28-2018, 01:05 PM
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Rocker panels..........

Quote:
Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
More work today.
Removed the rocker panels, headlights, foglights and front bumper. Passenger side rocker has some slight damage. Looks like someone tried to jack it at the wrong location. Also picked up my new front and rear bumpers from the shipper. Need to figure out how those will fit and how much mounting and bodywork will be required.
I am finding it interesting as I continue to remove parts to see how far the red paint goes. Whoever did the repaint clearly had the car pretty far apart. Very pleased with the condition of everything as it is coming apart. Feeling pretty good at this point that I purchased a good starting point. (either that or I purchased a great starting point and I am a moron for pulling it apart)

Quickly running out of space to store big parts!



If you need a rocker panel, I think I have a set somewhere in my shop that came off my SC. All yours if you come pick them up!
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Old 09-28-2018, 01:14 PM
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Thanks Fred. It is minimal damage. Think it can be fixed pretty easy.
Old 09-28-2018, 01:31 PM
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This darn exhaust stud!!

Still wont budge. Had a welder come out to the house and weld a nut on it. Thought surely we could turn it out then. Instead the nut just broke off. Then tried an easy out. No luck with that either and I felt the easy out was about to fail if I turned it any harder so I stopped on that.

Came across this specialty tool to drill out broken studs. (thanks Tim) It ain't cheap but it will get the job done. My primary concern is not damaging the block to the point that it needs serious machining. Honestly at this point if I were to take it somewhere it would prob cost me $300 anyways.

http://www.stomskiracing.com/produc...tud-repair-kit

Lot to spend on a tool I will use once but hopefully I can pass it on to someone else that will use it.

Been working on the Cobra so have not done much else. The bumpers did come last Friday. I had to pull the rear one out and hold it up to the car. There is a little interference on the passenger side with the oil tank so I will need to trim the flange slightly. Just looking at initial fitment I love how it looks and how the fit out of the box is. I ordered some of the crush tubes to replace the bumper shocks and will modify those a bit to help with the mounting. I realize structurally this bumper is a risk on a road car. I will just hope my luck continues and I am not rear ended.
Old 10-01-2018, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
This darn exhaust stud!!

Still wont budge. Had a welder come out to the house and weld a nut on it. Thought surely we could turn it out then. Instead the nut just broke off. Then tried an easy out. No luck with that either and I felt the easy out was about to fail if I turned it any harder so I stopped on that.
Had one stud of the 12 break off as well, the last after 11 went easy. darn.
was too short to grip.
didn't bother trying the weld-a-nut-on method.
went straight ahead grinding it down flush and then drilled it in 3 steps widening the bore (used widia-steel drills [KRUPP-made], extra strong, went very well).
when the bore was done, I checked the thread inside, was still there.
wound in a new stud with some loctite.
all ok ever since (aprox six years now)...
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Old 10-02-2018, 04:34 AM
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I ordered and received the Stomski racing stud removal jig and was able to finally get my broken stud out. Very nice tool and it allows a rookie like me to safely drill out the broken stud without damaging anything.

My old exhaust studs are all now removed. I need to order a new set.
I noticed the ones I pulled out are 34mm long. When I look in the parts catalog it comes up with one that is 51mm.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=exhaust+studs

Are the ones I removed incorrect? Do I need to order the 51mm set?

I am still researching what sort of upgrade I want to do to the exhaust. I know I don't want to put the stock one back on. is the length of exhaust stud to use dependent on what exhaust I use or should the same studs fit everything?


Old 10-07-2018, 11:26 AM
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First - I love the updates - keep it up. Nice to see your commitment to doing it right.

One comment and I know this way off topic - shouldn’t your flag be hung with the stars on the flag’s own right?

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Old 10-07-2018, 01:08 PM
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Did you take thin-flange heat exchangers off your car? I suspect that's the difference.
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Old 10-07-2018, 01:16 PM
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Never heard that with the flag. IF it where on a pole it would be hanging like that. Is there some protocol for that?

On the flange width of the heat exchanger it is 7mm thick. I am new to this and did not know they came in different widths. Does 7mm indicate a thin flange?
Old 10-07-2018, 01:23 PM
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7mm is thin flange. I think the change came in 1980; my car had thick flange exchangers. To put thin flange exchangers on thick flange studs requires the addition of thick washers.

Here's a post that should give you an idea of the fitment difference, this one going the other way:
Thin Flange vs. Thick Flange Heat Exchangers
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Old 10-07-2018, 02:46 PM
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Lookin' good!
I think we can hook up a fellow war-eagle with an exhaust system Probably more Auburn grads in Huntsville than any other city.
Lots of choices for how you want your exhaust to look and sound. Our headers work with thin or thick flanges. Give me a holler and we'll build a system to match the look and attitude you're after.
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Old 10-07-2018, 03:19 PM
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Brian, I was always afraid to ask which side you were on. If you had answered wrong I couldn’t have done business with you!

Also never wanted to ask Chuck Moreland where his company’s name came from!
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Old 10-07-2018, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Brian, I was always afraid to ask which side you were on. If you had answered wrong I couldn’t have done business with you!

Ha!
Actually I don't have a side per se but given the choice I always vote for the underdog
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:44 PM
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Now that I am done dealing with that stud I turned the motor back over on the stand. Pulled the upper covers off to assess general condition and also took a look at the spark plug. All the head studs appear solid on the top side as well. The spark plugs all pretty much look the same as the one pictured. One guy on my instagram suggested the motor may be running a little lean from the looks of the plug. I do not know enough to tell but will investigate that further.






Anyone have any feedback on that?

Worked on stripping out the interior this morning. Made pretty good progress. Finally having a beautiful and somewhat cool fall morning here so I had to stop for the day and take a Cobra ride. Next on my agenda is to continue working on the interior removal. Also got the parts I was waiting for to fit the bumpers so will be working on that soon. I want to get the bumpers fitted up prior to removing any more exterior parts or components that sit under the bumpers.




I intend to change/upgrade the entire exhaust system. Came across M&K exhaust that was recommended to me. He custom builds the systems to your liking. I like supporting small business and it turns out he is also in Alabama and 7 miles from my mother in laws house. Been discussing options with him. Gonna order a system from him shortly. At this point I am torn on the heater. I would like to retain the stock heat setup but to do so requires him to build a heat exchanger box around the headers. The problem with that is the headers look amazing on their own and the heat exchanger really uglies them up in my opinion. Two pictures below. One without heat exchangers and one with. I love the look without! Will have to decide on that. Also I will be doing a single out muffler to work with the EB Motorsports rear bumper I purchased.



Old 10-11-2018, 10:39 AM
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