Targa Top recovery

[car911]

I know there are many previous posts on this but I can't seem to find the answer I need.

Just had my top recovered by an experienced professional (but not Targa top expert). But unfortunately there is now MORE wind noise and creaks than with the old top. Also, he was not able to get the seam along the front and back perfectly straight and even, though it stills looks much better the the original.

Are there any experts out there who can help me with the following questions.

1. After reading some of the posts, I am getting the impression that the skin needs to be very firmly stretched. The installer left it slightly loose because he expects the material to shrink slightly over time. Is this a cause of the wind noise and creaks?

2. How important is it to replace the foam? Will fresh foam also reduce wind noise?

3. It looks to me that part of the unevenness along the front is due to some minor warping on the aluminum panels at the two front corners of the panel. Is this something I can fix by bending the metal (we are talking about 1/8 inch or less - noticeable but not excessively so)? Or should I just leave well enough alone?

4. Another part of the unevenness along the back edge looks to me like the area between the aluminum panels (a slight dip). Is there an easy fix for this? (I notice in pictures of other Targa top recovery jobs)

5. I read in another posting that the front lip should be pulled down 45 degrees. But I am not clear exactly what this means. Is the idea that the front edge of the skin sits a bit below the metal all along the front? This precision fitting is not mentioned in the Targa top repair articles I have read. This also suggests to me some precision sewing of the binding along the front edge of the skin to fit exactly between the front edge of the targa top frame and metal edge along the top of the windscreen. (The installer sewed the skin himself - hence these questions).

Any help would be appreciated. The installer has done lots of convertable tops but not too many Targas, and I suspect if we get a few pointers in the right direction, we will have a first class job.

[masraum]

I just recently (tonight actually) responded with my thoughts and experience to something very similar on the Rennlist. Let's see if I can help.
1. The skin should be pretty darn tight. It will shrink over time, but being tight is part of the way it stays on (kind of like being able to lock your knees when standing for long periods of time.)
2. The foam should be replaced since you are in there anyway. Although I can't say if it would be for anything other than aesthetics or noise it could be.
3. You shouldn't need to bend anything. You probably could, and it's possible that at some point your top has flown off of the car and is bent, but without having things apart to check I wouldn't. You could as a temporary fix if it's only a small amount.
4. I don't think that unevenness should be there, probably wouldn't be if the top were tight enough.
5. I think this is one of the largest factors in the amount of noise you get. The front and rear of the top skin should have a seam that's about 1/4-5/16" and this seam on the front and rear should angle down from horizontal or angle down towards the ground or the front of the car and the rear of the car. Otherwise the front seam acts as a scoop pulling in air and noise, lot's of noise.
Also the aluminum pieces are held in shape by some webbing that should probably be replaced. If you are looking to work on the top yourself you can check this out, http://members.rennlist.com/5150targa/page6.html, I think it may also be in the Pelican Tech articles.

Good luck and hope he get's it right for ya!


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Steve
Rennlist Member
PCA Member
'88 targa

[Jdub]

The top needs to be very, very tight. This is why folks rebuild them in the unlocked position, locking it after the glue is dry and the little hooks all in place. I am the one who wrote about the 45 degree angle on the front edge (bead). You can imagine that, if the bead is level, it is easily caught by the wind. Putting the skin on with the bead bent down means you will buy time until the bead eventually stretches from repeated foldings and starts loosening up, catching the wind, etc. As an aside, 45 degrees is the most you should bend it down: any more and the seal/top of windshield will force it back up, causing the infamous "bubbles" directly behind the front seam.

The noise you hear is your top rippling in the wind. If it is loose, this is the result. I always rebuild the top in the summer, on a hot day, in the sun (or, in the Winter, I put the fabric in the dryer just before gluing it to the top. I use binder clips to form the material to the top, stretching repeatedly). The material is naturally stretchy, and when I finally lock the top after stretching the skin as tight as I can, it POPS into position with a fair amount of tension across the top (think snare drum). The reason you are seeing the depressions is again because the material can float and so fall into the cavities these aluminium plates create. As to the plates and the 1/8th inch height at the corners, are you sure that the pins (two front) are settling into the holes correctly? If the covers were replaced it may take some time for everything to wear in.

There is so much to getting this right that I cannot fault the guy who rebuilt it for you. It is a job you can do, but it is messy and you get better and better with each that you do.

Jw

[grant]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by car911:
[B]I know there are many previous posts on this but I can't seem to find the answer I need.

Just had my top recovered by an experienced professional (but not Targa top expert).

I just rebuilt my top myself. You do want the skin to be tight. Yes, one can peel back the glued front and rear edge and then tighten the skin from the sides. Make sure the arms in a partially unlocked position. A hot day helps to get the skin loose. I know, I've done the retightening myself. Good luck Grant.