1977 911S Replacing Points
 

Hi,
I want to replace the points on my 77 Targa and I am trying to find a step by step thread to do this but have not had any luck. The car runs fine, but I did a tune up on it (Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, filters...etc) so I figured this should be done as well. Can anyone provide steps, gap, and procedure so I dont mess anything up and/or have to re-time the car? Thank you!

First with the ignition off, remove the cap and rotor, then turn the motor by hand until the points are fully open at their fullest gap.

Remove the old points, one screw and pig tail. Install new points.

Adjust the gap to 0.012" (assuming Bosh Dizzy). Use a screw driver in the slot to move the points. Tighten when the gap is set.

While in there put a VERY thin coating of grease on the cam and a drop of oil under the rotor in the felt at the top of the shaft.

Confirm the advance works freely by twisting the top of the shaft back and forth.

Replace the rotor and cap.

Hook up a dwell meter and timing light. Start the car.

Confirm 38* dwell angle and re- set timing to spec.

Thank you Gordon! But I will need a Timing Gun and Dwell meter then to set my new points? I was hoping to avoid that step if proper gap was placed. I will have to get these meters and tools (I have everything else but not these :) )

Thanks again, Oscar

It's been my experience that if you are careful and get the point gap perfect the dwell will be in spec. IMO it's just a good idea to make sure the dwell is in spec.

It has also been my experience that the timing should be checked. A very small change in the points will make a noticeable change in the timing. It would be a good idea to check the timing when done.

Decent timing lights and dwell meters can often by found on local CraigsList, precisely because so few people use them anymore. If not there, eBay.
I happen to like points...very elegant system and while I know most people say "put in an electronic alternative" I don't think that's always the smartest move; the aftermarket conversions can be kind of chintzy and not always 100% reliable (built to a price, etc).
If you're ever interested in how a basic ignition system works, there's a great description in the seminal shop manual, "How to Keep Your VW Alive for the Complete Idiot", by John Muir. I learned so much from this marvelous hippy artifact. Yes, our cars add a CDI box to the equation but the rest is on point (mechanic humor).
Trackrash's instructions are excellent. I'd probably first rotate the engine to the static timimg mark for #1 cylinder, but that's just me... No need to do that.
Best of luck, John/CT

To check, cut a 1/4 inch wide strip off the long end of a business card. If it goes in with light drag with arm on peak of lobe you are good. Provided they aren’t burnt/damaged etc you don’t really need to replace since there is no high voltage going through these.