87 front sway bar brackets
 

Greetings,
I have not been able to find a post on installing the sway bar brackets to the crossmember. The bushing split is facing to the front of the car. The bolt to the bracket is loose. The bracket is set up like the one that came off. Any help would be appreciated. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1540746386.jpg

how does the old & new brackets look side by side? are they obviously different lengths?

if they are exactly the same size I might look into if the sag of the a-arms is contributing. try carefully putting the floor jack under the a-arm and lift it just a bit with out taking the weight off the jackstands to see if that promotes a better line up. id have to assume the tires and wheels are off the car? if for some reason they remain on that additional weight is promoting a ton of a-arm sag you would never see under normal conditions that may be contributing..

You should be installing these with load removed from the sway bars.

I suggest placing the front wheels on car ramps or blocks safely. It will make aligning allot easier.

you seem to be contradicting yourself there. you suggest unloading the sways, but then suggest putting the wheels on ramps or blocks??? that would load the sway bars in my estimation.


dmd, one thing I just recalled in dealing with stock sways is the rubber at the a-arm can pinch & bind them due to the friction of the bushing on the sway bar surface. if you try my suggestion of lifting a sagging a-arm to align put a dabble of grease on the sway bar at that bushing to aid in moving it around some to line things up.

with the new bracket I might assume your bushings are new too? they can be stubborn in they's virgin state... :)

^^^

Actually, no I am not, when the car is on the ground, there is little to no load/pressure until it sways or lifts on one side when turning ergo ANTI-Sway or Anti-Roll Bars.

87-88 (thicker) anit-sway bars are easier to install on the ground or on a four post lift table, on 84-86's can be done raised but again easier if un-loaded. I found thinner the bar, easier to install either way.

Alternative to grease, I would use liquid detergent to help the bar slide in the bushing less likely to break down the new rubber

OP, place on ramps or blocks, it will be easier to push or pull in position ( in fact post a pic of the ends inside the control arms, I bet they are not pushed in enough )

^^^^^ topper.


if you wanna go to all the trouble of getting a lowered 911 on ramps or blocks have at it my man. by lifting one or both of the a-arm with a jack gives you a ton more flexibility, so to speak. with the car weighted on wheels are you telling me the sway bars will if disconnected from the body flop around?

the soap is a great idea, ill give you that. did you read that here?

ive installed the bigger G50 sways on my old SC so I know how to get a bigger shaft into a tighter spot. you again must be correct in that it is easier to get a thin stick in a soapy hole... that's something id know nothing about.

That job just sucks due to the shape of the front bar. Instead of the ends being at a right angle like every other car, it's shaped like \_/ to make clearance for a turned wheel.

I've done a bunch of tricks to help, including raising the a-arms, unbolting the front pivots of the a-arms, dropping the crossmember, etc. All with various amounts of success. Takes some harsh language no matter what. Just remember, never use a bolt to pull something into place and you'll be much better off.

Thanks for the advice, I will try lifting the A-arms and see how that works. I did find the source of the suspension noise. The right A-arm has 1/4" - 1/2" of play in it. Looks like the shock has an issue. They are boge struts with bilstein hd inserts from elephant racing. Working on getting the shock loose but the rubber plate is turning with the locking tab and can't currently break the top mount nut loose. I am brushing up on my German curse words.