If you want to zero the odo, do it. It's a nice mental thing every time you drive it.

Yes sir, I completely agree. I know Ruf can do their own VINs but I think that's limited to a new chassis and not a CTR or BTR build on your own car is all I was saying.

So if your Porsche VIN starts with W09, you've got something pretty special...

On a side note, when I was a RRVI I saw a company (the name escapes me) that is making carbon fiber chassis. I was wondering if Singer will eventually have to go this route — ie, not basing on existing chassis w/ VIN. I guess if an individual bought a brand new tub it wouldn’t be any different than a kit car. I’ve never really thought about how VINs are issued in those cases.

Anyway, sorry for the diversion.

I see no benefit of resetting the odometer and only negatives. What problem does it solve other than OCD?

I bought a 3.2 targa and imported it from the US to Europe. I just bought a used KM/H odometer and had it rebuild, I also had the miles on the original Odometer calculated to kilometers put on the new KM/H speedo.

I have kept the original speedo with the miles on it. I have documented the change and if I ever sell the car I can show that the kilometers that are showing on the odometer that is fitted to the car are correct.

In holland we have a register that records the kilometers on a car. If I would change it when I do a complete restoration the register will read that the total kilometers on the car are incorrect.

What does "Title reads mileage exempt" mean? I just saw this on a Barrett Jackson 1979 930 coming up for auction in Scottsdale.

Depends on which state issued the title. In Oregon, odometer readings are not required once a car get to a certain age (which I can't recall). At that point, new titles are shown with "mileage exempt". I imagine other states are similar.

Yep, same with Washington although, I’m not sure what the cut off date is either.
I’m with the majority here as well. Don’t reset the odometer. Leave that for douche bag used car salesmen.

If you reset...you become worst than the rest.

I would not zero it out. You can get a used KPH speedo and send it out to have the milage match. The speedo is probably inaccurate because your tire size has changed. Either a bit lower profile, worn or just slightly less circumference then what came with the car.

Chris

It’s your 40 year old car, not an ex-taxi being passed off as a an old ladies Sunday driver. If you want to replace and start at zero, go right ahead.

Everyone goes on like every 40+ year old 911 has a pristine mileage record. Cars have speedo swaps, get imported and exported, break odometers for a while and who knows what else.

Anyone believing a 911 mileage record without super-detailed documentation to prove it is kidding themselves that it is accurate. My car has details service record back to year 1, the title doesn’t match the mileage and there is a receipt for speedo repair. All freely told by the seller. I don’t care, and neither should anyone who is not buying a documented special edition in factory condition.

Yah. My car has well over 250,000 miles on the chassis, and it's worn multiple speedos since I bought it. It'll eventually get a rebuilt instrument showing total mileage.


To the OP;

1) check your tire sizes as suggested. And the speedo part #; irc, at least some years had different speedos for 15" or 16" wheels - so if either were swapped at some point, might not be helping. Also bear in mind the requirements for speedo readings in force when the car was built (usually allowed to be up to +10%, -0%).

2) Why not use a euro KPH-only - or the later 3.2 instrument marked with both MPH/KPH? I'd keep the original instrument.


If the discrepancy/optimism still annoys you (used to drive me crazy, so I sympathize), google "speedo correction yellow dog" ; tiny box that intercepts/corrects the speedo input for electrical speedos; you can install in the dash in about 10 minutes without cutting any factory wiring, just some spade connectors and a piggy-back or two.

I've had one for years. Allows you to correct the speedo to dead-nuts accurate - even with wheel/tire choices that didn't exist when the car was built.

I would purchase a new/old odometer in kph and zero this keep the old speedo and document it in the history file