Replacing Bell crank Bushings

[ARCSinAK]

I am in the middle of a throttle linkage refresh on a 74 911, Any advise on how to remove the bell crank from the pin that is screwed into the 915? Seems as though the rear control arms are in the way, after I removed the pin and washer? I was hesitant to put a wrench on the end of the pins two flat spots and try and remove the 39 y/o bell crank pin. It did not seem like there was that much purchase to try and go for it. Don'y really want to drop the motor/trans for this task any other thoughts would be great.

Regards-

JS

[rennworks]

the pin will unscrew out of the gear box.
warren

[steely]

If it is in the way like it was for my G50, disconnect the lower shock bolt and jack up the wheel.
The pin comes out beneath the trailing arm.

[Vintage56]

I replaced the two plastic bushings today on my '73 911 bell crank. The original plastic bushings finally crumbled. I used 2 new plastic bushings purchased from our host. The install is simple and straight-forward. However, for those attempting to do this on a fully-assembled car with the left trailing arm of the suspension in place, an additional step is necessary.

The issue I ran into was once the cotter pin and outer washer are removed and you disconnect the ball cup from the link from the gas pedal, the bell crank itself will not be able to slide out all of the way to the left to clear the rod that the bell crank slips onto. At least this was my experience with my 911. The only way to remove the bell crank itself is to remove the rod that is bolted into the engine crank case as described above in prior posts. I just wanted to clarify the procedure for others attempting to do this simple job since the prior posts may have implied this to be necessary, but wasn't clear to me anyway until I went to actually do the job.

The rod itself requires an 8mm open wrench to remove it, but you have to lubricate the the rod where it meets the engine and let is sit for a time before attempting to unbolt it. The entire rod, inner washer, and bell crank need to be removed together to clear the trailing arm. Then you can separate the bell crank from the link to the MFI above, clean up the bell crank, replace the 2 bushings, lube it, and reinstall the rod, inner washer, and bell crank together as one unit. Lastly, I installed the outer washer and cotter pin. Also, while it was apart, I removed the ball socket from the link from the gas pedal, cleaned it up on the wire-wheel, removed 45 years of dirt and gunk, and reattached the ball socket to the bell crank.

It's a straight forward job as noted. Enjoy!

[steely]

Since you brought it up, I should amend my 2013 post to say that I did not need to remove the pin, and mention that the threaded pin hole is not blind in the G50 (it is open to case fluids).