PN needed for floating rotor peanut.
 

I need help finding the part number for the spacer that is used between the hat and the rotor that fits loosely into the slots of the front rotor plate.
...and then... where can I buy them?
Thanks in advance.
Bill K

Anyone ?????

I'm going to try VCI, PBM, and Wilwood tomorrow when they open.

Bill K

VCI is a good contact. For aftermarket they call them T locks I think. Not sure if the Porsche ones are the same, but Doug should know.

I think that you are looking for 900.039.002.02

Rebel Racing

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1548015113.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1548015113.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1548015113.jpg

Okay friends - here's what I've learned.

This is the part I need:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1548084502.jpg

These parts are supplemented by this part (t-lock 900 039 002 02), which I think are meant to convert floating rotors to fixed, by locking the rotor to the hat:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1548084621.jpg.

I have feelers out to Doug at VCI, and Mike at PMB, but in the meantime - if I decide to assemble my project as non-floating do I need 12 t-locks, or only 3 or 4 per disc, just to lock the disc in position.

Thanks to Bill V for the info, images, and knowledge.

Bill K

It looks like Bill is using both of those above. IMHO The flat piece that you have pictured gets bent up as a locking feature to help prevent the nut from coming loose. Also it looks like Rebel Racing is only using a locking nut

Second look at Bill's pic... you're right. The t-locks go on the hat side of the assembly - looks like to lock the bolt head in place.

Have not contacted Clint at Rebel based on the poor customer reviews he's been getting lately, plus, I had already ordered all the other hardware in titanium from STi.

FWIW, VCI returned my call, and the parts are on their way.

Bill K

Make sure the hardware is rated for brake rotor hat use. Strength and temperature resistance are both important. Titanium is generally strong of course, but make sure it's rated appropriately. I read once (maybe Carroll Smith?) where he recommended sticking with ferrous bolts so they hold torque properly - something about expansion rate needing to be correct for the application when things get hot.

Using all aviation grade hardware.
The 48 washers themselves were $1.45 ea, not to mention the 24 jetnuts and 24 M6x24 Ti bolts.

Overkill, considering the car's track days are long gone.

But - thanks for your concern

Bill K