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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Raleigh, NC
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Hard Warm Start becomes No Start

I am having problems starting the car after sitting 1-2 hrs. Removed and tested the fuel accumulator which was fine. Ran a residual pressure test which also proved fine
(4.6 bar with fuel pump on, 1.5 bar after 10 minutes and 1.3 bar after 30 minutes). I did this from a cold engine while Bentley says to run the engine for 3 minutes before taking the leak down data.

After removing and replacing the accumulator I have not been able to restart the car. I suspect it has been flooded but not certain.

So, two questions. What is the best way to clear a flooded engine? I am thinking remove plugs and fuel pump relay and crank the engine. Secondly, what is next to investigate if the accumulator and fuel pump check valves are not the problem with a warm start.

Thanks,
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Old 02-04-2019, 11:36 AM
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be very careful that you also disable ignition or sparks will/can ignite the fuel coming out of cylinders. My car caught fire that way but I managed to stop it with the garden hose with only minor damage
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Old 02-04-2019, 12:32 PM
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Flooded engine.........

Walt,

Remove the spark plugs. Use a suitable flexible rubber hose connected to a shop vac to evacuate the gasoline in the combustion chambers. Aerate the combustion chambers to dry them using compressed air. Your engine oil might be contaminated with fuel (?).

Have you confirmed the presence of strong ignition signals using an inductive timing light during a hot start test?


Tony
Old 02-04-2019, 12:55 PM
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clean or replace the plugs.
if you have not done a tune up replace cap and rotor.

start with a good ignition then set timing.

sounds like you checked residual pressure of the system pressure.
you need to check control pressure and control residual pressure.
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Old 02-05-2019, 03:27 AM
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Cleared flooding problem and got it started so I took some fuel pressure readings. Pump pressure with gauge valve closed = 4.7 bars. Started engine and ran for 5 minutes with valve open and the pressure was 2.8 bars and residual pressure was 1.6 after sitting for 30 minutes. Given the low system pressure do I need to replace or shim the WUR (its marked 086)?

I did take some readings before starting the engine with the WUR plug in, the pressure increased from 1.1 to 2.1 in 5 minutes.
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Old 02-18-2019, 08:34 AM
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US spec. or ROW?

Quote:
Originally Posted by walt View Post
Cleared flooding problem and got it started so I took some fuel pressure readings. Pump pressure with gauge valve closed = 4.7 bars. Started engine and ran for 5 minutes with valve open and the pressure was 2.8 bars and residual pressure was 1.6 after sitting for 30 minutes. Given the low system pressure do I need to replace or shim the WUR (its marked 086)?

I did take some readings before starting the engine with the WUR plug in, the pressure increased from 1.1 to 2.1 in 5 minutes.

Walt,

Is the motor a US or RoW CIS spec ? The marking 086 is the cast number of the housing. Look on top of the WUR for the Bosch ID# (0 438 140 xxx). The last 3 digits identify a particular WUR. What was the WCP (warm control pressure)? 2.1 or 2.8 bar? Either of these are out of spec.

Tony
Old 02-18-2019, 10:21 AM
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Tony:
Its a US spec and the following is clearly stamped 438140 after that there appears to be a faint 089. Looks like it was ground off at one time and re-stamped. Warm control pressure is 2.8 bar with engine running for 5 minutes.

Thanks for the tip on blowing air down the cylinders to clear flooding, did the trick.
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Old 02-18-2019, 11:42 AM
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Correct CIS component........

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Tony:
Its a US spec and the following is clearly stamped 438140 after that there appears to be a faint 089. Looks like it was ground off at one time and re-stamped. Warm control pressure is 2.8 bar with engine running for 5 minutes.

Thanks for the tip on blowing air down the cylinders to clear flooding, did the trick.


Walt,

Just to make sure we are on the same page. If the engine is a US spec, then you have OXS and a lambda box (ECU) installed? Please confirm this. If this is correct, you have the wrong WUR. WUR-089 is a vacuum assisted regulator and does not work with engines with FV and OXS. Keep us posted. Thanks.

Tony
Old 02-18-2019, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boyt911sc View Post
Walt,

Just to make sure we are on the same page. If the engine is a US spec, then you have OXS and a lambda box (ECU) installed? Please confirm this. If this is correct, you have the wrong WUR. WUR-089 is a vacuum assisted regulator and does not work with engines with FV and OXS. Keep us posted. Thanks.

Tony
My US 81 had an 089 WUR and I replaced it with the correct 090.

I wonder if that was a "hot" setup at one point in time for the US CIS platform as I believe the 81-83 ROW (maybe all ROW SC's) had the 089 from factory.
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Old 02-18-2019, 01:02 PM
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Yes I have confirmed but OXS no longer installed.
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Old 02-18-2019, 02:41 PM
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Take a look at the following.........

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Yes I have confirmed but OXS no longer installed.

Walt,

So you have deleted the OXS and using a vacuum assisted WUR-089 and what else? What else has been deleted or changed from the original setting? The lambda box (ECU) and FV disabled? Do you know what fuel distributor you have now on the engine? Is it a FD-031, FD-077, or FD-089? A picture of your engine would be a great help for people wanting to help you. Keep us posted. Thanks.

Tony

Last edited by boyt911sc; 02-19-2019 at 04:57 AM..
Old 02-18-2019, 04:04 PM
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I believe only the OXS has been disconnected, the FV is connected and seems to be functioning. The number on the FD is 218894-152.
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Old 02-19-2019, 05:12 AM
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FD ID numbers........

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I believe only the OXS has been disconnected, the FV is connected and seems to be functioning. The number on the FD is 218894-152.


Walt,

The Bosch FD ID # should read like 0-438-100-xxx. I could see from the picture you attached the metal tag that bears the identification. Just behind the fuel hose connected to the FD and right behind the air box. Do you want a simple fix or a complicated one? I bet you would like a simple one?

If I were you, I would simply revive the OXS and lambda ECU and get the correct WUR-090. How were you able to run this engine correctly in the past? Keep us posted.

Tony
Old 02-19-2019, 05:47 AM
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