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Rear Suspension Help: CV Advice & Banana Arm Removal

Hello,

Need some advice as I am stuck on my rear suspension project on my 1988 G50 Carrera.

Trailing Arm Bushing:


Am trying to remove the rear trailing/banana arms from the chassis (have removed everything else, including disconnected brake lines/emergency brake, etc). I am working on jack stands and the engine and transmission are in place, and in the picture above it is the bolt #4 that I am essentially trying to remove.

Accessing the nut and bolt is next to impossible to apply enough torque to get it to move. Things I have tried but haven't worked:

1) Shortening a 7/8 and 22mm socket - incredibly tough to get it to stay on the bolt side without slipping while trying to apply enough force to get it to move. On the nut side, I can't get a socket on as there is not enough space on the passenger side and on the driver's side there are too many wires/cables to get even close.

2) Using this to try and cut the nut. MasterCraft Multicrafter:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZldBBCqf-4

The rubber on the bushing is tough to get through and the blade action is super slow. It is also extremely hard to stay away from the aluminum trailing arm.

3) Have also tried a u-joint with the socket's above. This just slips off the bolt side. On the nut side I cannot get enough space to attach socket plus u-joint.


I read that some people hacksaw these, but am unsure how they can do this neatly without damaging anything in the process.

If anyone has any ideas, that would be great.

I also am in the process of servicing my axles/CVs and have them out of the car.

There is some "play" on the wheel side of the axle and it sounds like this (video makes it sound potentially louder than it is). Is this normal? The reason that I ask is that it is present on both my driver's side and passenger's side axles and on both only on the wheel side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3kuHKLXnVM&feature=youtu.be

Last edited by Skepa122; 02-10-2019 at 04:33 PM..
Old 02-10-2019, 04:28 PM
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have you gotten one of the two sides off yet?
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Old 02-10-2019, 05:16 PM
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I have everything off the car with regards to the rear suspension except both the trailing arm bolts that hold it to the chassis.

This is where I am currently stuck and looking for some advice
Old 02-10-2019, 05:44 PM
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If the bolt - #4 in the parts diagram - is oriented as shown - which is how Porsche installed it, how are you going to get it out after you remove (or cut off) the nut? It will bump into the torsion tube, won't it?

Which is why guys cut off the bolt head, and drive it out from that end, I think. When I removed my bananas, I had the transmission out of the car so none of that applied to me.

Removing the factory rubber bushings, which hare a steel outer, is kind of tough and tedious once you have the arms out. What are you planning for a replacement?
Old 02-10-2019, 06:40 PM
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I am the exact same spot as you are right now on my ‘87. I am running into the exact same problem as you are. This is the only fastener on the entire rear suspension I have been unsuccessful with.

I am going to try one more thing: putting a 22mm box wrench on the nut and try to get enough leverage to move the nut. If I can get the nut to move then I might try to shorten a socket to get it on the bolt side. I’m nervous about rounding the bolt head so I won’t go too nuts. I’ll end up cleaning the trailing arms while on the car and replacing the bushings at some point later when I drop the engine.
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Old 02-10-2019, 07:02 PM
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Matt i was just about to send this too you.. damn G50!
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Old 02-10-2019, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt Fricke View Post
If the bolt - #4 in the parts diagram - is oriented as shown - which is how Porsche installed it, how are you going to get it out after you remove (or cut off) the nut? It will bump into the torsion tube, won't it?

Which is why guys cut off the bolt head, and drive it out from that end, I think. When I removed my bananas, I had the transmission out of the car so none of that applied to me.

Removing the factory rubber bushings, which hare a steel outer, is kind of tough and tedious once you have the arms out. What are you planning for a replacement?
On the G50 cars there is a dimple in the torsion tube, so the bolt should come out once the nut is off. Like you said, this is how Porsche oriented it, so they must have been able to put it in this way. If the bolt head faced inward then you would have to cut the bolt head off unless the engine were removed from the car.
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Old 02-10-2019, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brasch View Post
Matt i was just about to send this too you.. damn G50!
I know. The multi tool is an interesting idea. This gives you more control than a sawzall but it still makes me nervous. I’d probably be more worried about cutting into the trailing arm than the bracket since the trailing arm is aluminum.
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Old 02-10-2019, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt Fricke View Post
If the bolt - #4 in the parts diagram - is oriented as shown - which is how Porsche installed it, how are you going to get it out after you remove (or cut off) the nut? It will bump into the torsion tube, won't it?

Which is why guys cut off the bolt head, and drive it out from that end, I think. When I removed my bananas, I had the transmission out of the car so none of that applied to me.

Removing the factory rubber bushings, which hare a steel outer, is kind of tough and tedious once you have the arms out. What are you planning for a replacement?
My plan was to cut it off right between the rubber sandwich that part #3 in the diagram makes. I would hope that this would allow me to pull out the bolt and the nut end. Otherwise I guess would have to make 2 cuts on either side.

I have the elephant racing replacements that I planned to put in there.
Old 02-10-2019, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxnofx View Post
I am the exact same spot as you are right now on my ‘87. I am running into the exact same problem as you are. This is the only fastener on the entire rear suspension I have been unsuccessful with.

I am going to try one more thing: putting a 22mm box wrench on the nut and try to get enough leverage to move the nut. If I can get the nut to move then I might try to shorten a socket to get it on the bolt side. I’m nervous about rounding the bolt head so I won’t go too nuts. I’ll end up cleaning the trailing arms while on the car and replacing the bushings at some point later when I drop the engine.
You'll find very little space on either side of the transmission, but give it a go. It would almost be doable with the right tool but there are some lines/hoses in the way on the driver's side.

This is by far the toughest part of the whole refresh.
Old 02-10-2019, 08:37 PM
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The key for me on this was to lock the nut so I could turn the bolt.

Look at the second picture in the permalink below. I ground off a ring (I forget what size exactly now) and the third picture shows where to slip it on. Start turning the bolt and the nut (with ring on it) will turn until it catches-then you are all set

This worked for both sides, to both loosen and tighten.
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Old 02-10-2019, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reachme View Post
The key for me on this was to lock the nut so I could turn the bolt.

Look at the second picture in the permalink below. I ground off a ring (I forget what size exactly now) and the third picture shows where to slip it on. Start turning the bolt and the nut (with ring on it) will turn until it catches-then you are all set

This worked for both sides, to both loosen and tighten.
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I see, that makes sense.

What did you use to turn the bolt? Have a shaved shortened socket but cannot get it to sit well enough (causing slip) on the bolt side when I apply any force.
Old 02-11-2019, 06:10 AM
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Using the right tools.......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skepa122 View Post
I see, that makes sense.

What did you use to turn the bolt? Have a shaved shortened socket but cannot get it to sit well enough (causing slip) on the bolt side when I apply any force.


Skepa,

Use a six-point socket or box wrench for this job. Leverage is your friend. Stay safe and make sure the car is properly supported. Keep us posted.

Tony
Old 02-11-2019, 06:41 AM
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Gave it a shot on the bolt and can’t get it to budge without slipping. Which is rounding that bolt unfortunately. Using a 7/8s and 22mm shortened socket

Good advice in supporting the car.

With regards to the CV:
I took apart the inner cv joint and noticed there was no concave washer under the cage. Is this normal for some models? Thought they all have the washer there. Unless the later G bodies had a different design.
Old 02-11-2019, 10:31 AM
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Are you on stands or do you have a lift?
I have found that using a lift it can be night and day when in awkward spots.
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Old 02-11-2019, 10:58 AM
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On stands, which doesn’t leave a lot of room for moving any levers/extensions. I could potentially lift the car up slightly more but don’t want to have it too high as I am applying a lot of force on these bolts.
Old 02-11-2019, 11:26 AM
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Bought one of these to use with my shortened socket:



Best thing so far to use but can only attach it on the bolt end and am getting slippage as I apply force. The other trouble that between the ground and the engine, there is not much space to turn. So if you get the bolt at an odd angle, it doesn't give you any space to press the level to turn the bolt.

On the nut side, still not enough space to get in there and put on a socket.

For anyone else, this is a good thing to try with fresh bolt heads and more working space under the car.

Last edited by Skepa122; 02-11-2019 at 12:48 PM..
Old 02-11-2019, 12:38 PM
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Use an inductive heater.......

Skepa,

You could easily overcome your problem getting these stubborn nut & bolt by using an inductive heater. I was initially skeptical about its worthiness when a forum member posted his newly acquired tool. I have been trying to remove the ‘’89 Carrera 3.2 car seats’ slider bolts for awhile without any success. Later found out that these slider bolts were factory thread lock type fasteners and could be a real problem getting them loose without heat application.

Another member saw my request wanting to borrow it and kindly offered his inductive heater instead. The bolts I was attempting to loosen for weeks without any sign of progress were no match to the Inductive Heater. It’s hard to believe if you have not seen or experienced how these stubborn fasteners could withstand and resist tremendous force applied to them.

It is not how hard you work and tackle a problem but how smart you did the job to achieve your ultimate goal. Keep us posted. Thanks.

Tony
Old 02-11-2019, 01:57 PM
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Appreciate the advice ^^.

The heater is a bank breaker though. I am sure it works after watching a couple videos.
My plan B is to do everything else on the suspension and do this bushing last while in the car, and on a car lift.

This seems like the best solution as I can still progress the project forward. Or I get brave and start cutting.
Old 02-11-2019, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skepa122 View Post
With regards to the CV:
I took apart the inner cv joint and noticed there was no concave washer under the cage. Is this normal for some models? Thought they all have the washer there. Unless the later G bodies had a different design.
I took the inner one apart a couple years ago and don't remember there being a concave washer. I just remember the snap ring, outer housing, cage, and balls.

I am going to replace the outer cv boot in a couple days and that seems to require removing the inner cv and boot to get to the outer one. I can let you know what I find.

Matt
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Old 02-12-2019, 02:03 PM
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