Starter or Battery?

[DRONE]

Battery is measured at 12.69 volts
Turning the key will not engage the starter
Bright lights radio all work charged the battery (1 year old)
Haven't jacked up the car (87 911) to tap the solenoid yet just wondering what it could be Should I try and Jump it? I did get it to start by rolling down a hill and bumping the clutch and got it home

[Techno Duck]

No click or anything from the starter? Sounds like ignition switch to me.

[sapote]

Don’t hit the solenoid yet, try to jump a wire from the starter big 12v post to the solenoid smaller wire connector. If it cranks then bad connection from key switch to solenoid.

[DRONE]

Nope no click everything goes black, would jumping it narrow it down any?
Hadn't heard anything earlier from the starter and it would start easily before.

[bourgeois911]

Ground possibly.

[DRONE]

there has been quite a bit of rain here of late I'll check my grounds and move on from there

[DRONE]

Do you think a spray of contact cleaner into the switch might help?

[sapote]

Get under the car:
1) using a small wire — 12 gauge or so — jump from the starter big 12v to the solenoid small connector. If cranks then bad connection from switch to solenoid. If not then next step,
2) short the solenoid big 12v post to the braid cable connected post with a large screwdriver (bypassing the solenoid). If not crank then check the trans/engine ground cable to chassis.
Hint: measure from trans to chassis when short the solenoid 2 posts with screwdriver. If more than 3v then bad ground.
3) if (1) doesn’t crank but (2) cranks, then solenoid posts internal contact is bad/worn.

[sapote]

One more: measure across battery posts during turning key to start position. If battery dropped below 9v then battery has little energy.

Do this if steps above failed to crank.

[JSV798]

Do you have a multi-meter? If so you need to check that the solenoid is getting battery voltage. Connect the red probe of your meter to the solenoid terminal where the yellow cable is attached, black probe to earth and turn key to start position. This is much easier said than done and an assistant to turn the key would help a lot. The yellow cable comes from the start position of the ignition switch and is live only when the key is turned to start. No voltage would suggest yellow wire is broken or starter switch faulty. If you have voltage then solenoid looks faulty

[OldSpool87]

Goes without saying and at the risk of sounding obnoxious the crank tests should be done with car in neutral.

You can also get a remote momentary start switch at an auto parts store. It has alligator clamps on leads and a button on the end. Clamp to the starts lugs and press button to test.

Good luck!

[T77911S]

stop all your tests.

clean your battery connections first.
clean the battery to body ground connection
clean the body to tranny connection
check the 14 connector on the relay panel, see of the contacts are dirty. you may be able to just remove and plug it back in a few times to clean it up.

then try to start it.

if no start
measure battery volt WHILE cranking/trying to crank
get a test light, connect it across the battery and note how bright it is.
then check the power cable at the starter
then check the yellow wire while cranking. should be as bright as the power wire at the starter, at least.


the solenoid needs a lot of current to pull it in. a MM needs no current to measure 12v. a MM can be very misleading.

[Knockdown]

One of the best tools I have added to my toolbox has been these 12’ long clip leads. It allows you to monitor voltages at different points on the car while you operate the key switch. In this picture I’m locating a voltage drop while cranking that is resulting in crank timing errors with my EFI install. A short while back the contacts on my 14 pin connector needed to be cleaned when the engine would not crank.

[DRONE]

T77911S I'm not sure where the 14 connector on the relay panel is, is it in the front on the fuse panel or in the rear by the engine?

[gomezoneill]

engine compartment on the left side under the black cover.

[sapote]

Originally Posted by T77911S

the solenoid needs a lot of current to pull it in. a MM needs no current to measure 12v. a MM can be very misleading.

Just wanted to set the record straight, that
1st two sentences are correct.
3rd sentence is not. The DVM (MM) would display a lower voltage, I.e. 8V, if the ignition switch or wire connection drops too much voltage, just as the test light bulb dimmer. There is no reason of using the light bulb is better than a DVM.

[darrin]

Drone -- have you tried jumping it to rule out a dead/defective cell?

your "no click, everything goes black" could suggest that your battery lacks the amperage necessary to turn over the starter while still having enough power to run less power-intensive stuff --

might as well address "low hanging fruit" first --

[DRONE]

I guess there is no harm in taking back the battery to O'Rilley since it is about a year old and get a new one I do not know how to test amperage/load test

[darrin]

DRONE -- for sure, they can quickly load test it and give it a clean/fail bill of health . While the battery's out, check the battery tray for corrosion or moisture, which could provide another clue to the root cause of your problem

[Joe Bob]

Whacking the solenoid isn't gonna hurt it.....