Vague feeling accellerator

[Artfrombama]

When I step on the accelerator to pull away from the light there is nothing there for about an inch, then I move it a fraction more and the motor revvs to 2500-3000. Couple this with a clutch that engages at the very top of the travel.... Does not make for a very enjoyable Sunday drive.
I have replaced the quadrant bushings in the rear, no improvement.

[75 911s]

Three main areas of concern for the accelerator:

1. The pedal assembly. Most of these need to be rebuilt by now. Get the bronze bushing set and get to work.
2. The tunnel bushings. 3 bushings in the tunnel, one under the shift tower, 1 under the ebrake, and one near the shift coupler.
3. The accelerator bracket (sometimes called bell housing) on the top of the back of the motor. This is probably your culprit. The plastic bushings in there disentegrate. Rebuild with new bronze bushings and new springs.
3a. The two bushings under the car on the trans that transitions the accel rod to the rod that sticks up through the firewall to the accelerator bracket.

As for the clutch, again, rebuilding the pedal cluster is a good start. Replace the clutch cable and check the arm on the bottom of the trans. The 101 book describes the clutch pedal adjustment nicely.

[steely]

Originally Posted by 75 911s

....
3. The accelerator bracket (sometimes called bell housing) ....

am sure you meant bell crank

sage advice too BTW

[Artfrombama]

Previous owner installed bronze pedal bushings.

I can hear the accelerator rod rattling in the trans tunnel. The clutch cable looks easy. I noticed 25mm (+/-) of flat washers allowing more adjustment to the clutch cable, this along with clutch engagement within 100mm (+/-) from the top of pedal travel lead me to believe the clutch is history.
I've ordered "tunnel bushings" and a clutch cable from our host.

[stownsen914]

See if the tube that the cable goes through in the tunnel has broken free at either end. That would certainly cause the symptoms you describe.

EDIT - mixed up my Porsche models apparently. What I meant was looks at mounts on the chassis to see if any have broken free.

[Artfrombama]

I replaced the clutch cable as well as the three tunnel bushings. Wow, what a difference!
Unfortunately I had to pull the drivetrain to replace the ring and pinion, discovered the clutch "fork" is making contact with the fingers of the pressure plate so I assume the fork is either worn or bent.

[hughc]

" discovered the clutch "fork" is making contact with the fingers of the pressure plate so I assume the fork is either worn or bent.[/QUOTE]

Shouldn't the clutch "fork" be held firmly in place on the throw out bearing? I can't understand how the fork would be touching the pressure plate springs unless it was improperly installed at some point in the past, or as you say the fork could be damaged.

I'm just trying to visualize your situation as I also have to replace my clutch so this is all new to me.

[icarp]

Get a helper , you go to the engine compartment , they put their hand on the gas pedal and move it
Then you have your hand on all the different parts of the accel linkage while he moves the pedal
Make your way through all the joints . If everything is tight jack the left rear up . Where the axle meets the trans is where the accel linkage is , same test here. The last place to check is the pedal box it's self . Pull the carpet , the remove the pedal board . You will have to pull the ball link out of the gas pedal to remove the board , reconnect and repeat the test . Flashlight in hand

[gptom]

could be the vibration isolator on the accelerator cable has let go & only the safety cage is holding on