How to do RS / RSA door panel handles right
 

I don't like RS door panels, but I had to install a pair on a client car.

It was all new to me. But the idea of using "jack screws" to mount the handles seemed ludicrous. I tried one and I figured even if I could get it to stop turning in the hole, it wouldn't last through more than a couple removals/reinsalls.

Here's how I fixed it.

1. Positioned the door panel to establish where to drill the bolt mounting holes, marked & drilled.

2. Cut a short piece of aluminum bar stock, used the door panel to again find the drill points, then drilled *smaller* holes for the bolts.

3. Matched the thread of the handle mounting bolts with a tap and tapped the holes in the aluminum bar stock.

4. Mounted the bar stock piece in place behind the inner door shell with handle bolts & drilled 2 positioning holes for rivets - pop riveted the aluminum bar in place

5. Done.

The RS / RSA door handles now mount rock solid to the door.

Additional hint from Dave at TRE: on the RSA style handles that pop in place, use a couple additional washers under the handle bolts to raise the handles enough to give a grip for the handle bezels.

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552746074.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552746074.jpg

These type of insert nuts are technically for attaching to plastic not sheet metal. I suspect they use them because they are easier to set. The riv nuts designed for metal applications are a pain to set by hand. However once set they meet the same tensile loads of most class 8 nuts.

I used rivnuts on the license panel of this car.

What comes with the RS/RSA door panel kits are jack screws, which are like expanding anchor screws for sheetrock. Junk.

I prefer using the threaded block. Less of a pita.

Good creative solution. Thanks for sharing!

I just did my RS panels, don't use the jack screws that they supply, absolute junk. Do the rivnut thing, pain to install right but they wont spin or let go. PS, love cell phone cameras they let you look in places that you could never get to.

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552776461.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552776461.JPG

Looks great @Snitzler was eliminating the lock knob turning thing a pain, I found it touches the door card. Did you have to alter it in any way?

cheer

No I didn't. The door panel (Appbiz) had a cutout for the lock knob stuff but no cut out in the soft foam and leatherette. All I did was put a layer of duct tape both sides of the vapor barrier and 2 layers on the inside of the door panel, over top the foam. When the panel is installed you can't really feel anything where the square lock thing is and you certainly can't see anything. Operating the lock knob shows nothing as well. Picture shows nothing which is good!


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1552785039.JPG

glad to read this. part of my plan to use these door cards.

You can see the leather is raised in a slight bump above the handle.

I recently did my panels and went back to a 73 RSR style. I also wanted to remove the lock knob on the later style cars because I think it looks cleaner. In order to avoid the bump, I removed the locking boomerang and sawed off the block that attaches to the locking knob mechanism. Now that the block is gone the door panel is 100% smooth.

NOTE: the threading between early and late style locking pins are different. I still need to find a solution so that you don't get locked in the car when the late style lock pin sits flush with the door trim.

I like idiot-proof solutions. Some ham-fisted tech in future could overtorque a rivnut... and kill it.

Overtorque the threaded block and you can tap to the next size bolt.

Of course, if you’re the only person who deals with it, no problem.

Nice Solutions
 

Great alternatives & solution(s) but I've never had any problems with the jack nuts provided with my RS door panels. I think I originally installed them in ~ 2006 timeframe

I've removed and re-installed the door panels more times than I would like to admit (multiple window adjustments -- seeking the Holy Grail of a sealed Targa..., door speaker installation, finding / fixing annoying rattles, installing tilt vent windows, removing the handles to get the spacers right so the outer handle cover clips stay on...) and haven't had any problems with the jack nuts coming loose.

Meanwhile, I'm sure I just jinxed myself - and will be pissed the next time I try to remove the handles and find that the jack nuts came loose and are spinning...

Gordo

advice...dont use the pins they supply for pull straps...i put a small bolt in with lock nut. biggest pain for me was getting the black caps to stay on..had to adjust mount screws to get them to "lock" in...i am sure there is a better way for those to be mounted

So let me get this straight: the handles on RS door panels are only attached to the door card itself? Not to the door itself? Is there some type of RS style panel that uses the factory mounting holes for the handle?

I put my rivnuts in the door sheet metal.

RS door pulls should be mounted to the door sheet metal with rivnuts

It makes more sense now that I've read some installation instructions. I have no experience with rivnuts but I've watched a few YouTube videos so now I'm basically an expert (hahah). It seems pretty straightforward with the right tool.

Anyone have a recommendation for a rivnut tool? Seems like there are plenty on Amazon. Normally I buy high quality tools, although I'm willing to get something less expensive in this case due to the fact that I envision rarely using this.

I bought a 7 dollar rivnut manual tool off amazon for the same reason. Only needed it for two rivnut. In any case it didn't work and I ended up using a super delicate hemostat (like ultra fine- nose pliers) to hold the nut in place while I set the screws. It worked okay and once the piece grabbed, I was able to tighten without the grip. Hope this helps
Q

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I hate RS door cards unless it's an actual race car. The storage of the factory armrest/door pockets is super useful and it doesn't really weigh that much.

mine are empty.
whatever you could need can fit in the glovebox, the rest can fit in the frunk.

If it were me, I'd reinforce the rivet area behind that thin shet metal with a wider washer before final clamping of the rivet