Need Help Getting 1970 911T to Start
 

I have owned this 1970 911T for ten years and have been slowly restoring it. I has been started about once every other month during that time and driven for short periods 3 times a year or so.

About two months ago, the car suddenly would not start. The starter would not engage. I traced that down to the connector near the back fuse panel. Once I got the motor to turn over, it ran for a short period and then quit. Since then, the car will turn over, but will not fire at all. It used to require starting fluid often to get the car to start, but even that does nothing now.

I checked the fuel delivery and it is getting fuel. I went ahead and replaced the fuel line and filter. I pulled #1 spark plug today and grounded it to the case. It fired OK.

The car acts like it is not getting any spark, as it doesn't spit at all when cranked.

I have not checked the timing, but it has not been touched for years.

Any suggestions?

David Nolen

1970 911T
1999 Boxster

Replacing the oil return tubes
 

Gonna replace my heat exchangers so thought I'd replace the oil return tubes at that time, as one is leaking. I was thinking I"d replace all 4, as the other 3 surely leak, as soon as I button her up. Agree?

What do you use to lube the return tubes? One video on Youtube recommended something from Napa, call silglide. I'm sure there might be other choices. thanx. steve

pull a plug and look at it - maybe replace the plugs, wires, rotor...

trace the ignition system out and see what's up; does a '70 have a CD box? check it out if so

oops, i messed up my post. sorry to contaminate this one. steve

Hi there. I had a similar situation with my 70 911T a few years back after it had been sitting for many years. Went through all the same checks that you did and couldn't figure it out. Finally realized maybe it was the points, took off the distributor cap and ran a nail file or something similar between the 2 points and it started right up. then I changed the points.......

It has a CD box. As stated before, I had spark on the #1 spark plug lead when I took a spark plug and grounded it to the case, so I figured the CD box was OK. I have no way of gauging the strength of the spark, but there was one there. It acts like there is either no spark (or very weak spark) or the timing is way off.

I stumbled on this as i was trying to post something on my own...but, I would get a helper who can crank the engine while you put a timing light on each and every plug wire to verify that you do have spark at each hole. Or, even better, again with a helper, pull each plug and crank the car, check for spark as you did on #1 and see if you get any compression pushing air out of that cylinder. Wear glasses and be sure to cover the hole with a rag so as not to splatter fuel everywhere on that compression stroke.

I'd also pull the distributor cap, that's easy and check it out, tho' you have spark.

Is the car MFI or Carbed? you said you had fuel, but to what point and how did you check it? I'm probably too much of a novice to help, but it's a start (pun intended). s

The car has the original 2.2 liter engine with Zeniths. I will try using the timing light on all of the spark plug wires.

What baffles me is that the car ran fine last Fall and was OK until the starter wiring issue.

Does the cd box make a high pitch sound?

I would pull the air cleaner off and look in the carbs while working the linkage. If you see gas squirting from the accelerator nozzles you are good.

As mentioned, it really sounds like points, so a check with a timing light is a good idea.

If it has the original CD box, that could be the culprit. Hard to diagnose them. If it is whining and you get some spark? Maybe about to go out?

It has the original CD. I will check it further in the AM.

I'm with track trash...pull the air cleaners, and move the throttle mechanism...should see the accelerator pumps pissin' away. if not, i'd wack those carbs with a soft hammer and see if you get some action. can you hear the fuel pump whirring? you have a full tank of gas, right? The other thing that's a bear to diagnose, is the coil, but the light test might help some. steve

Verify spark at each cylinder. Then make sure the jets are clean so that you are getting fuel.

Carbs that sit are very unhappy with today's fuel quality. The Ethanol content absorbs water and will not want to burn. It can also dissolve deposits and cause clogged jets.

Track trash, I like that. I'm still laughing. Actually sounds better than trackrash....

I checked the carb squirters ths morning and they are all OK. I looked closely at the control unt and realized that it is a Permatune unit, not the original Bosch.

I ordered a new coil this morning. I am beginning to think weak spark is the issue.

The premature may be shot. You can wire around it and the engine will run if coil is good and you have spark. And fuel.