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I'm doing another autocross on Sunday (tomorrow) and I have been working on a handful of changes/upgrades based on my experience from the last one:
  1. One of the rear tires was mounted backwards and I didn't notice it until that day. Need to flip it and rotate tires. This is DONE.
  2. I didn't have the center console bolted down and it flopping around was really distracting. This is also DONE
  3. Sticky brake pedal. I'm still working through this one. It has a new master cylinder, rebuilt front calipers, rebuilt pedal cluster, and new pads/rotors. Have any of you experienced something like this? It's possible that my caliper rebuild wasn't perfect but that doesn't seem to be the issue. I may pull off the brake booster and cast aluminum piece to see if any of those bushings are messed up or something is hung up. I'll check this out TODAY.
  4. Get a bucket seat. I picked up a Recaro Pole Position. Holy Ship has that made a huge difference in the canyon runs I've done since I installed it last weekend. This is DONE.
  5. Upgrade the bellcrank/throttle return spring and resync the carbs. It's had a high idle due to the 2/3 and 4/5 throttle plates not fully closing. I swapped on a new return spring yesterday and am planning to resync the throttles in a bit.

I picked the seat up for $800 off of Facebook Marketplace. It's two years old and came with the Recaro sidemounts, Recaro sliders, and a Planted bracket. The bracket was for a Subaru but the base plate actually mounts directly to the 74-98 seat rails once you cut the Subbie tabs off of it.



Based on my inaccurate scale (my arms) it seems to weigh about half as much even with the planted bracket. I could do away with that massive Planted steel bracket by getting the RS seat belt bracket but this works for now.



In the car it sits at the right height, a little lower than the stock seat, and is tilted back at the right amount.





I had a long break between meetings on Thursday so I cruised the Malibu canyons for the second time in a week. My impressions of the Pole Position are as follows: the fitment is pretty good. I have a narrow waist and wide shoulders. The waist is comfortable and not too snug but the shoulders are a little tight. I'm 5'7" 150 lbs with a 30 waist for reference. Driving in the canyons with this seat is ****** unbelievable. I had no idea what a difference it would make not having to grab onto the steering wheel and have my knee braced against the door card. I am quite a bit quicker and confident in my usual route because of this. It feels like one of the largest differences I've made to the car in terms of giving me confidence in what I can feel the car doing and not having my mind on not sliding out of the seat (which it never really was but I had no idea the difference until now).



Until next time!

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Old 11-21-2020, 08:54 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #261 (permalink)
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Regarding you tables -

I don't think the following has anything to do with your dyno numbers; you could set your barometric pressure range a tiny bit higher, and correct your initial pressure reading to your altitude, whatever that is.

Sea level is just over 101kpa, and I see that you have set a limit of 100.

Is there another table for rev limit, I didn't see one.

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Old 11-21-2020, 09:09 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #262 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixed76 View Post
Regarding you tables -

I don't think the following has anything to do with your dyno numbers; you could set your barometric pressure range a tiny bit higher, and correct your initial pressure reading to your altitude, whatever that is.

Sea level is just over 101kpa, and I see that you have set a limit of 100.

Is there another table for rev limit, I didn't see one.

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Thanks for helping out with this, I'll make that KPA change since I'm pretty much at sea level.

Here are a few tables that have to do with Tach output and Rev Limit:





These have more to do with the gauge output within tunerstudio itself that display when I have my laptop plugged in:

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Old 11-21-2020, 09:54 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #263 (permalink)
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Ed Pink must have had their dyno tach setting configured for an 8 cylinder engine instead of 6, hence the low RPM. If using the Dynojet software I don't think this would affect the horsepower numbers, but I don't know about their system. (Torque would be higher if the RPM was off, but not HP).

Does your VE table at 100% TPS approximately follow what the torque curve of your engine should be?
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Old 11-21-2020, 10:08 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #264 (permalink)
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I haven't use Megasquirt too much, but is your rev limit capped to 6000 RPM by coolant temp?
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Old 11-21-2020, 10:11 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #265 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Beau View Post
Ed Pink must have had their dyno tach setting configured for an 8 cylinder engine instead of 6, hence the low RPM. If using the Dynojet software I don't think this would affect the horsepower numbers, but I don't know about their system. (Torque would be higher if the RPM was off, but not HP).

Does your VE table at 100% TPS approximately follow what the torque curve of your engine should be?
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Originally Posted by Mr Beau View Post
I haven't use Megasquirt too much, but is your rev limit capped to 6000 RPM by coolant temp?
No, that feature isn't turned on.

I'd say that the VE table loosely follows the torque curve but then trends back up towards 7k rpm. Here's my current VE table:



And the log of the last dyno run shows it maxed at 6,930 RPM

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Old 11-21-2020, 10:27 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #266 (permalink)
 
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Judging by 3.2L dyno graphs your highest VE number should somewhere around 5000 or 5500 RPM. You have your VE increasing with higher RPM which doesn't mimic the torque curve, which is why your AFR is rich (11.7) at high RPM. You're leaving power on the table.

Ed Pink didn't have the pulses/rev setting correct on the dyno which is why the RPM doesn't agree.
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Old 11-21-2020, 10:34 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #267 (permalink)
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Happy new year everyone!

It's been so long since I made an update that I had to go back through my pictures in my phone to catch up on what I've been up to...

As of the last update we were prepping the Avocado for an autocross and making a few changes to the tuning. The autocross was a blast and the small changes I made to the car were significant out on the course. It was much more confidence-inspiring.



At the end of the autocross that Sunday I had about 18 days before heading out of town for the holidays for 18 days. Realizing we were so close to the end of the year lit a fire under me to start cleaning out the garage and posting some parts for sale. Both so I could raise some funds for my other project but also to see if I could horse trade my way to a pair of 3.6 engines.

Most of that 18 day period wasn't spent on the Avocado but there were things going on behind the scenes. With my garage sale I was able to sell the Stock 3.2 that was in the Avocado the last few months (that's the fifth time I took the engine out in 2020) and purchase a 3.6 swap from Joe aka 350 SIX out of the pelican classifieds. It was coming from Tennesee though which was the complication. I hired the guy that transported my 1973 chassis for me and that meant that he needed to find some additional jobs to/from that area from Los Angeles/Orange County.

It was a lot of hurry up and wait conversations as jobs were booked and then canceled. At one point my wife and I were considering taking a detour to Nashville on our road trip back home from our holidays in Wisconsin to pick it up. That would have been a really tight fit in an Audi Q5...

Fortunately, my transporter came through and ended up driving through all sorts of weather to deliver his loads to Phoenix, Las Vegas, and finally to our house in Los Angeles. It took way longer than expected but it was great to have it in my hands.



Joe did a fantastic job packing, wrapping, and securing the load to the pallet.

This engine swap came with a fair bit of it's own story. I believe Joe got it about 4 years ago and it's been sitting ever since. It's from a 1990 964 and came with a handful of swap parts (60/2 flywheel, fuel inlet line, PMS power steering blockoff, throttle cable, oil pipe, etc), 911chips chipped ecu, 1.75" Billy Boat headers/muffler, and came with both the OG Aluminum intake setup and a later Black plastic intake manifold. The guy he bought it from had it installed and running in an SC and was pulled due to an engine fire. It barbecued the harness around the fuel return area which was one part of this I forgot I had to fix.

The PO (not Joe), rather than using the numerous available wiring harness conversions butchered the portion of the harness that goes to the DME relay and 16 pin connector. I can't really make sense of the mods they did, it doesn't seem like it would run with the way they had it setup. After waffling on what to do for power distribution, I decided to run the relays similar to how I had it setup on my standalone harness rather than fix what's already been cut up and reuse a DME relay (which I'd also have to purchase).

Prior to getting it installed into the Avocado I did some preventative maintenance. I replaced the oil return tubes with new orings, resurfaced the flywheel and installed the Sachs Power Clutch I had on the stock 3.2 (only has about 1500 miles), installed new exhaust manifold seals/rings, muffler gaskets, belts, and oxygen sensor.







Here's a portion of the barbecued harness. I didn't take any pictures of the fixes (only vids on instagram). It included replacing a few wires, depinning the connectors, and replacing with raychem heatshrink loomm. There were a few cable bundles that wouldn't fit in the size loom I had so I used PVC cover wrapped in Tesa cloth harness tape.



Trans installed and ready to go back in the car:



Where I left it last night:

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Old 01-11-2021, 10:17 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #268 (permalink)
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WTF.
Everyone has a 3.6!
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Old 01-11-2021, 10:29 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #269 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by chrisbalich View Post
WTF.
Everyone has a 3.6!
Lol, when I did the math on selling the stock 3.2 and purchasing the 3.6 it made too much sense. That 3.2 wasn't original to the car (I still have the built engine, I'll probably have some updates on that in the next few weeks) and this will be easier to make bar legal with similar power output to the built 3.2, I hope.
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Old 01-11-2021, 11:14 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #270 (permalink)
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Phew! First off, it's a monster and I'm so in love with my car again. The 3.6 swap is AWESOME and turned the Avocado into what it was destined to be.

Let's backtrack a bit though... Getting to this point wasn't without a lot of frustration along the way. The following was the list of things I had to get through to end up with some stellar drives yesterday.
  • Power Distribution
  • Spacing the engine mounts
  • Fuel leak
  • Vacuum leak
  • Exhaust leak?
  • Throttle cable too short
  • Failed crank sensor

Apologies in advance for the lack of pics. There's tons of video on Instagram Stories...

The power distribution aspect of creating a standalone wiring harness was the most difficult thing to wrap my head around when I first built the Megasquirt harness. Fortunately, those skills came in handy when it came time to fix the 964 harness.

The DME relay controls power to the ecu, fuel pump, injectors, and ignition coils. All things you can use regular, common relays to replace. These are all high current circuits that shouldn't be directly fed through a switch or an ecu. I replaced the DME Relay with 4 micro 280 relays for each of those circuits. The ecu, injectors, and ignition coil relays turn on with the ignition switch and the fuel pump gets a ground signal from the ecu that tells it when to turn on so that it's not constantly on when you turn the key.

I reused my bussmann block from the standalone harness to get it running but bought a slimmer end mount block to switch to at some point in the future. All the wires on the back of the fuse/relay block go through weatherpack connectors so things can be easily disconnected.

In mounting the engine into the bay (and also reading through a ton of threads) the 964 engine tins hit the underside of the engine bay before the engine cradle reaches the mounts. I used a 1" spacer to clear for now but I'm not happy with how low it made the muffler. It looks like I have enough clearance at the top of the intake manifold to use a 3.2 pulley, cradle, and tins so I might switch to that at some point.

With the engine mounted and the wiring done, I was ready to fire the engine. I cranked it over, it briefly caught, went to the back of the car, and saw that I had a pretty large fuel leak. Yikes! It was leaking at the crimp on the U shaped adapter that came out of the fuel filter which was a conversion line that came with my swap. I quickly unplugged the battery, cleaned things up, and resigned myself to working on it another day.



That another day ended up being the next day. I work fast. After some overnight research and a decision to shop locally and not at Summit, I found a local spot called Earls that specializes in AN fittings and whatnot. I ended up doing three trips there and back with various parts of my fuel system before deciding on new 5/16" line and 200psi hose clamps rather than converting to AN and finding some sort of adapter for the ball seat on the rail. It works with no leaks!

The car still didn't want to run after fixing the fuel leak but would briefly fire with a bit of starting fluid. When it fired on starting fluid it sounded like it had a massive vacuum leak. It ended up being a massive vacuum leak that took me FOREVER to find and days of diagnosis including visual inspections, confirming fuel pressure, tightening every clamp and connection (Why are there so many on this manifold?!), fogging starting fluid around connections, and then finally hooking up an extra vac line and blasting some smoke into the manifold. The leak was IMMEDIATELY apparent and was right behind a bracket that made it difficult to see. When I capped that connection it ran immediately. FACEPALM.



All day Saturday I was also waiting for UPS to arrive with this stupid plastic throttle clip. Once it arrived I took it for a drive around the block late Saturday afternoon and then a little further over to a friends to give him a ride. On full-throttle it sounded like it had some sort of exhaust leak. We were planning to go up to the canyons on Sunday morning so I let everything cool down overnight and retightened all the exhaust nuts and bolts.



On Sunday's drive it still sounded like it had an exhaust leak and while the car felt quick it still felt muted, similar to when I swapped in that stock 3.2 longblock (which if we recall ended up being down a cylinder from an ignition problem, if I remember it correctly). So that meant spending some more time in the garage with MORE diagnosis. I pulled the plugs to start with a compression test. Spark plugs on 1-5 looked normal but 6 was black and wet with fuel. Compression on cylinders 1-5 were mint (205-215 psi) but then the compression tester failed on cylinder #6 prior to getting a reading. UGH.



So I did a leakdown that had interesting results but it showed that cylinder 6 was the best of all of them. That was a plus. Eventually, I broke down and went to Harbor Freight to grab a compression tester. I test cylinder 4-6, it read lower numbers than the other tester I had but cylinder 6 was still strong, so that's good! Engine health was confirmed. At that point, I stopped for the night.

Being that I had fuel I felt like there was something wrong with the ignition system. More overnight googling yielded the usual stuff. On Monday morning I went through every part of the ignition system and wanted to confirm that the #6 cylinder wasn't firing. I took the heat wrap off each of the header leads and sprayed water on them with the engine running. Cylinder 6 was indeed dead. With that confirmed I swapped plugs, ohmed out wires, cleaned grounds, cleaned cap/rotor, used spark plug tester on ignition coil and every side of the plug leads (it always fired), unplugged ignition modules, pretty much everything. Everything tested out. I was so puzzled.

My friend Charlie suggested testing fueling again. I begrudgingly agreed. I swapped injectors first, no change. At that point I decided to put a 12v noid light on the fuel injector plugs, 4 & 5 flashed, 6 was on CONSTANTLY. Oh boy. That could be why the plug is wet.

That meant more wiring tests. I tested continuity on all injectors on the fuel injection harness, no issues. Then I turned my attention to the plug from the ECU. AH HA, I found what I thought was a short between the cylinder 6 injector pin and the Red/White power wire. I removed the loom I added from that section of wire and there were no issues or shorts. From there I took that plug apart (which I had never touched) and looked to see if there were any issues to the wiring there. It was at that point that it looked like two pins were switched. That plug has one power wire, two permanent grounds, and switched grounds from the ECU for each injector that turns them on/off on that plug. One of the permanent grounds had been switched with the #6 injector ground. What the heck?! How long has this harness been like that?

The Avocado fired up and purred like a kitten upon the first turn of the key after switching those pins. I basked in this wizard-like feeling for a few minutes, cleaned up, made some lunch, and then went for a drive. Oh boy, it RIPS.

On one of the pulls that I filmed the car started sputtering and died. It eventually started back up and I made it home, I thought it might be low on fuel. I put some extra gas in at home, washed the car, and then went to fill it up on fuel. That seemed to have solved the issue so I called it fixed.



Later that evening I went to take my buddy Charlie for a ride. He was super pumped as I had been texting him updates and videos all day. On the way over to his house the car stumbled again, died, and I ended up on the side of the 405 freeway during rush hour. When I cranked the key I wasn't getting any tach signal. My theory was that the crank sensor might have died. I waited for a tow (god bless AAA premier), called my wife to pick me up, and then waited. When we all got home we tucked the car into the garage and called it a night.



After all the constant fussing with the car the last two weeks I was actually ready for a break. It was nice.

In the morning, I tested everything crank sensor related and it had indeed died. I replaced it with another I had lying around and it fired right up. In my quest to make this car/engine/setup bulletproof I'll probably replace all the sensors with new prior to doing any significant distances or roadtrips. I don't want to take another 200 mile tow...

While I was under the car I messed with the throttle cable too. It was slightly too short which put too much tension on the bell crank and didn't fully allow it to fully close at idle.

With those things fixed it was time for more test drives. The car is FAST. Like break the 245 width R compounds in first gear fast. I love it.

There is still more to be done but for now it's a running, driving car again. The other things on my list to do are an additional oil cooler, add a thermostatically controlled fan to the carrera cooler, see what's going on with the sticky brake pedal (I've messed with everything at this point so it's time to go back through it all), tweak the windshield frame some more to get a better windshield seal, and then focus on the suspension upgrades. Weeeeeee!

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Old 01-20-2021, 11:15 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #271 (permalink)
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Nice build and even better troubleshooting. I see some points where I would have given up and sold the car. What are your oil temps without the front cooler? Enjoy the car, looks like a blast. The 3.6 changes the car overnight. Can you talk about what headers,muffler you are running?
Old 01-21-2021, 11:30 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #272 (permalink)
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Great following your build and continuous development of the car. Best of luck.
Old 01-21-2021, 01:46 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #273 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SalazarS2K View Post
Nice build and even better troubleshooting. I see some points where I would have given up and sold the car. What are your oil temps without the front cooler? Enjoy the car, looks like a blast. The 3.6 changes the car overnight. Can you talk about what headers,muffler you are running?
Haha, I hear ya. I try to take it all in stride.

It still has the fender-mounted Carrera cooler (no fan), no engine cooler (although I wish they fit without so much work) and the highest the temps got were around 250 degrees. Those temps are not something I want to see on a regular basis and I knew it would need some upgrades there.

There's no natural airflow through that fender mount cooler. I'm going to add a fan and some ducting which should help but I'll really need to add an additional cooler. I haven't decided which route I want to go; additional driver side fender mount, front mount with a RUF style valence, or fit an oil cooler where the front AC condenser goes.

It's a Billy Boat exhaust setup. 1.75" primary headers to dual 2.5" inlets w/3" out.

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Great following your build and continuous development of the car. Best of luck.
Thanks!
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Old 01-21-2021, 03:50 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #274 (permalink)
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Fantastic thread, and I feel your video just cost me around $40,000, glade you're not my financial planner haha!

Keep them coming, awesome work. Cheers
Old 01-23-2021, 09:24 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #275 (permalink)
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Fantastic thread, and I feel your video just cost me around $40,000, glade you're not my financial planner haha!

Keep them coming, awesome work. Cheers
Hahaha, if it's in your budget then go for it. The swap was far less than $40k unless you're talking about the whole car...

It's been a really rewarding project. Thanks for following along!
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Old 01-24-2021, 06:41 PM
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I see more oil cooler in your future...
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Old 01-24-2021, 07:10 PM
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Hahaha, if it's in your budget then go for it. The swap was far less than $40k unless you're talking about the whole car...

It's been a really rewarding project. Thanks for following along!
I'm in Canada so everything fun is $40,000 minimum haha. Keep up the great work, I am following right along. Only question is do I build mine up out of the cat I have in the garage or find something else?
Old 01-24-2021, 07:21 PM
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I see more oil cooler in your future...
That was this weekend's project!

I swapped in both an additional fender mount on the driver side and installed a fan on the OG passenger side cooler. The oil cooler lines I had were too short so I just ran with the fan on today's drive. It was cooler outside (40-50 degrees for most the drive) but with the fan on oil temps dropped by 20 degrees pretty quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ab1752 View Post
I'm in Canada so everything fun is $40,000 minimum haha. Keep up the great work, I am following right along. Only question is do I build mine up out of the cat I have in the garage or find something else?
Ah, that will make things a bit more expensive. If you like the car you have, upgrade that one!
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Old 01-24-2021, 09:13 PM
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INCREDIBLE story to follow!!!!!!!!!!!!

Old 01-25-2021, 06:51 AM
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