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RDM RDM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ab1752 View Post
Only question is do I build mine up out of the cat I have in the garage or find something else?
Finally a use for cats! I can't wait to see this build!;-)

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1980 911SC Targa • Petrol Blue Metallic • Cork special leather • Sport Seats • Limited Slip • 964 Cams • SSIs • Rennshifter
1990 250D Opawagen • 2003 C180T Kompressor Familienwagen 1971 280SE Beverly... hills that is
Old 01-25-2021, 10:31 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #281 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RDM View Post
Finally a use for cats! I can't wait to see this build!;-)
haha...thick fingers on a samsung keyboard, "car"! BTW I'm a dog person, just as the 95 lb ball of bernese fury that rules the roost around here.
Old 01-25-2021, 12:53 PM
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RDM RDM is offline
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Our Goldens would agree.





Obligatory tech content: I'm really happy with my garage floor and driveway.
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1980 911SC Targa • Petrol Blue Metallic • Cork special leather • Sport Seats • Limited Slip • 964 Cams • SSIs • Rennshifter
1990 250D Opawagen • 2003 C180T Kompressor Familienwagen 1971 280SE Beverly... hills that is
Old 01-27-2021, 10:29 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #283 (permalink)
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Phew, been a wild month getting the car dialed in after the swap and ready for a Feb 21 autocross with the PCA-OCR.

As an aside, I'm likely doing the March 21st event as well if anyone is interested in joining: https://www.motorsportreg.com/events/poc-autocross-championship-series-march-21-2021-el-toro-marine-base-333344

To get the Avocado prepped I had a short but important list of things to take care of:
  • Add a second oil cooler
  • Change/upgrade shift bushings
  • Purchase/install Fuchs wheels
  • Add an LSD
  • Figure out my sticky brake pedal issue

First thing on that list was to add an additional oil cooler, I had the bright idea to rummage through some of the boxes from my other car and found an additional driver side cooler and (most of) the oil cooler lines. I made myself a bracket, paid too much to have -12 line extension made, added a relayed fan to the passenger side cooler, put everything together and then changed the oil. Oil temps are very steady and if things ever start to creep up I can flip the fan on. Eventually, I will install a thermo switch but this was good enough to get things going.





When rummaging through all those boxes I figured it would be worth looking to see what else was on my shelves that I had no idea was there... In the process I found some shifter components I could use. There was a new shift cup bushing, Bugpack poly shift coupler bushings, and what looked to be a new rod bushing. The shifting on my car wasn't terrible but the worn bushings were noticeable when coming to a stop and shifting into first gear. I installed the cup and rod bushings and called it good because the shift coupler bushings had looked to have been replaced and seemed to be in good shape, more on that later...




I've had a set of 225/275 15" Hoosier R7s sitting in the corner of my garage that were mounted on the Gold Minilites when I bought them. I came to the realization that I'd likely never use them unless I found another set of wheels to mount them to. I found a local set of 15x7/8 Fuchs that were kinda in rough shape for a reasonable deal, had the Hoosiers mounted, cleaned them up, and then weighed and test mounted them to make sure they'd clear. The front wheels/tires are 5 pounds lighter each and the rears are 6 pounds lighter each than the minilites. I know that R7s aren't meant for an autocross but they're better off being used than sitting in the corner... More on that later.





Once I got on that weight kick, I started removing other simple stuff from the car to see how much weight I could drop. Out came the jack, spare tire, frunk carpets, center console, rear bumperettes, windshield washer jug, and a few other pieces. Combined with the wheels that was 100lbs that I dropped.

The two bigger items on the list were to add an LSD and to figure out my sticky brake pedal. The LSD was the first item on that list to take care of and required me to remove and send my stock open diff to Jae at Mirage so he could swap bearings, speedo ring, ring gear, and shim it. I sorted out my boxing skills and double-boxed it with tons of extra cardboard. You don't want that solid piece of steel bouncing around! A week later, the OS Giken LSD arrived ready for me to install along with some Swepco 210. Not much to look at but oh BOY did it make a world of driving difference.



Onto the brakes...
a few hundred miles after I rebuilt my front calipers and swapped in a new master cylinder I started to get a brake pedal that can only be described as sticky. If you pushed it down a certain amount it would suck itself down further and need to be pulled up with your foot. It was really annoying. I made it a goal to figure out what the hell was going on prior to the autocross. I've rebuilt the pedal cluster, swapped the old master cylinder back in, greased all bushings, and greased the brake booster, all to end up with the same problem. Eventually I had the bright idea to check if the brake booster check valve was working and if the booster itself would hold vacuum... no it doesn't.
Ah ha! To test my theory of the booster being bad I disconnected/plugged the vacuum source and took it for a drive. Besides having a really stiff pedal, it was no longer sticking and operating normally. I have yet to get a replacement booster so I've been driving around boosterless including doing the autocross that way. It's not ideal but you get used to it. I'm supposed to meet up with Efren to grab a used booster either tomorrow of Friday. I'm looking forward to getting that installed and having working brakes again!

As for the autocross, this is the most dialed in my car has been since I got it so I was pretty excited to see what it would feel like on the course. I managed to stuff four 15x7/8 Fuchs into the back seat of my car and swapped them on while we were in the paddock. Not being able to do that would be one downside to getting a rollbar! Hard to see in this pic but there are four tires back there:



With the 3.2 I never got beyond second gear, at the most there were a few spots I'd hit the limiter. This also meant that I had never really needed to do a fast third to second downshift which immediately became apparent on the second lap. The POC course is setup on an airstrip with two 180s at either end. I was unable to downshift from third to second on the first 180 and coasted through the whole thing until the gear finally went in. Ugh.

When the first set of four runs was done I decided to realign the shifter linkage, which I did and called it good but didn't drive around the paddock to test it. When it came time to do my second set of runs I went to drive over to the grid and it wasn't shifting into first, trying to get it into first would put it into third! I missed my second run group working on this adjustment.

There's probably no better place to be than a Porsche event when you're having problems like this. I met Jeremy from TRE and Steve Wong (they were in the tent next to us) who gave me a hand. Jeremy thought that my shift coupler was a little too loose and was allowing way too much play. With new bushings all around I felt that was a reasonable conclusion to come to. I eventually somehow got the shifter aligned to get into all gears including downshifting from third to second and the coordinators allowed me to get my second set of runs in with another group, SCORE!



The rest of the runs went off without a hitch. The Avocado is stable in braking, acceleration, and cornering and despite the Hoosiers being R7s they started off with equal cold grip as my r-compounds and when they warmed up they only got better.

I narrowed my times to within 7/10 of a second to my friends e30, although on his best and final lap he shaved 2 seconds off but clipped two cones. That is a win in my book! I think we were off by like 6-8 seconds at our first event with both of these cars so that's a pretty large improvement.



When I got home I HAD to take a look at that shift linkage. What actually happened was that my "new" shift rod bushing had disintegrated. I picked up a new rod bushing, swapped on a different shift coupler with new Poly bushings, realigned it, and it's as good as it's ever been. Had I not used sticky poly grease this probably wouldn't have happened. The new bushing is a white "plastic" OE replacement lubed with red synthetic mobil 1 grease.



I'm really enjoying the car at this stage and I find myself waffling on what to do next or to just enjoy it for now.

I debate with replacing all rubber bushings with either new rubber or spherical while leaving stock torsion bars and sways vs going all out. There are so many dope suspension products out there for our cars it's hard to know what route to take. The stock carrera stuff is really compliant and with new bushings would probably feel great. I should try to get some seat time in some other Porsches prior to making this decision, it feels like a big one!

I've also been considering backdating with a fiberglass carrera RS rear, 911s front, the OE fenders from my other project, and a conversion hood. I'm really curious to see what a backdated moss green in a hot rod style 911 would look like.

It would probably be smart to leave this car alone and work on other projects for now... we'll see.

Thanks again for following along,
Gabe
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Old 03-03-2021, 08:44 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #284 (permalink)
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By brake booster, are you talking about the cooper pipe vacuum boost on the engine? Dump that POS, absolutely no need to replace the stock component! It’s a crazy easy fix:

Three pieces of rubber tube
T connector

One tube runs to the brake line, another to the vacuum line on the back of the TB and the other to the vacuum line on the intake. The result is a little stiffer brake pedal, but significantly better brake feel, consistent pressure and a slightly shorter pedal. Granted this is on a dedicated race car, so no clue how it may fare on the street.

I was having braking issues at Cal Speedway about 10 years ago, asked the other carrera guys for advice and was almost laughed out of the paddock when they saw I still had that vacuum line in place.
Old 03-03-2021, 09:12 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #285 (permalink)
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^^ The booster is the big black circular thing the master cylinder bolts to. It's often called a brake servo across the pond.
Basically a huge vacuum reservoir used to assist the brake action and reduce pedal effort.
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Old 03-03-2021, 10:42 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #286 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mehoff View Post
By brake booster, are you talking about the cooper pipe vacuum boost on the engine? Dump that POS, absolutely no need to replace the stock component! It’s a crazy easy fix:

Three pieces of rubber tube
T connector

One tube runs to the brake line, another to the vacuum line on the back of the TB and the other to the vacuum line on the intake. The result is a little stiffer brake pedal, but significantly better brake feel, consistent pressure and a slightly shorter pedal. Granted this is on a dedicated race car, so no clue how it may fare on the street.

I was having braking issues at Cal Speedway about 10 years ago, asked the other carrera guys for advice and was almost laughed out of the paddock when they saw I still had that vacuum line in place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisbalich View Post
^^ The booster is the big black circular thing the master cylinder bolts to. It's often called a brake servo across the pond.
Basically a huge vacuum reservoir used to assist the brake action and reduce pedal effort.
Chris has the right idea on this one.

It's this thing:



I still haven't replaced it, Efren has been tough to meetup with. In the meantime I've gotten used to driving around with boosterless brakes.


_______________________________________________

This kinda barely counts as an Avocado update anymore because this engine is slated for my other car, but it's worth regaling you with the tale because this engine's story started it's journey here.

The hot rod engine is now fully assembled! Here's what was wrong with it:
  • Bent intake and exhaust valves, both were replaced with new
  • Cylinder was out of spec where the debris hit, this was replaced with a good used one that I got honed
  • The piston probably would have been fine to run but I replaced it with a new one and new rings anyways

When I got the rebuilt head back and prior to getting the new/used cylinder, I assembled cylinder #2 and then attempted a leakdown. It wasn't getting great numbers with the cylinder at TDC which lead me to check it with a bore gauge. It was out of spec by a few thousandths and it was leaking combustion pressure past it.

That meant I needed to source a new cylinder. Jae at Mirage found a good one that was in spec and sent it over. Once I got it and had it honed these parts sat on any flat surface I had in my garage for a few months. I've been working on other Avocado projects and house projects and wasn't really in the mood to get this thing back together... until last weekend. I had a free weekend with no plans so when I found myself bored I popped into the garage to get crackin! 5 days and ~12-15 hours later we had a complete engine.

Pics below:












I also decided to refinish the valve covers, fan, and fan housing. After sand blasting and paint application it went into the oven at 200 degrees for 60 minutes and we had some delicious wrinkle black and chemical resistant clear coat:






And it's complete! Think we're going to go with the black 1.8t ignition coils over the red R8 coils.




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Old 03-23-2021, 05:35 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #287 (permalink)
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