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Originally Posted by AutoXer23 View Post
Your build is motivating. I'm about to hit the garage right now!!
Yea! Get to it.

Motivation for wiring problems is hard to come by but with the extra time I have lately it's one of the few things I can spend some time on. That and once this is figured out I can register and drive it!

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Old 05-27-2020, 06:27 AM
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I am worn out just reading this story! You are my HERO!!!!!! Were you a mechanic earlier in life?
Old 05-27-2020, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Keithg View Post
I am worn out just reading this story! You are my HERO!!!!!! Were you a mechanic earlier in life?
Haha, it's absolutely been a rollercoaster.

Never a mechanic but I did work at a Buick/Pontiac/Subaru dealer back in the day from Age 16-19 in the body shop and as a Subaru apprentice for a summer. I was the broom handler in the body shop. I learned and experienced quite a bit in those few years.

Most of what I've learned to be willing and comfortable tackling this project happened after that point though. It was from trial and error and working on larger and larger projects over the last 18 years.

-------------

As for updates, I had a few meetings early this morning and the rest of the day free to head out to the garage. I felt like I had a much more clear head than the last few days.

Diagnosing wiring issues is a methodical process even when it feels out of control early on. To me, much of that comes from not knowing how things are routed throughout the car. But with wiring diagrams you can see where connections are and when you know two endpoints you can start checking both continuity and voltage between them.

I got the reverse lights working yesterday, which turned out to be corroded contacts in the rear light buckets combined with the copper contacts needing to be pulled out a bit.

This morning I set about seeing what was wrong with everything else: the passenger tail lights, brake lights, and turn signals. Armed with my wiring diagrams, I started checking continuity on all the endpoints again. I was concerned about my diagnosis yesterday so I started over. I ultimately found that the wire that connects the tail lights to the fusebox had become brittle and broken off. It goes in the same location as that black/red wire in the picture below. I stripped the wire, connected it back to the fuse panel, tested the lights and... Success! Now we're making progress.



Next to check were the brake lights. I checked to make sure both switches had continuity and were operable (they were), then checked continuity on the wires from the fuse box to the switches and switches to the rear tail light plug (also good). After that I plugged them back in and tested voltage, all good! That leaves either the bulbs or the bulb contacts. When I wiggled the bulb I got it to work so I cleaned the contacts and now we have working brake lights

That leaves the turn signals. Earlier in the day I decided to buy a new flasher relay and turn signal stalk because I was pretty convinced they were both f-ed. I took the flasher module apart and cleaned all the insides and electrodes with isopropyl alcohol and plugged it back in. I was also having an issue with the turn signal stalk, in that it wouldn't want to go forwards or backwards for the high beams. Since I ordered a new one I started being less gentle with it and realized it was actually already in the forward position for high beams :facepalm: Once I got it back to center and cycled it a few times I was able to see that the turn signals and flasher relay were totally fine. Another win and I was able to cancel my order before they sent it out!

With all the lights and switches working I was able to test everything again and saw that the passenger headlight was out. The City light was working fine and because of that I never noticed that the light was out. When I took it apart, I saw why. It was smashed!



With the headlight replaced I now have all the lights and switches working with the exception of the hazard switch, I think that one may need to be replaced. It's gummed up and not doing it's job.

I felt like this was an extremely daunting task prior to starting it but once I found a rhythm today it wasn't so bad.

With all the lights working again I felt like I deserved to go for a drive around the block again, even though I'm still waiting on a windshield. I started it, went to back out of the driveway and it felt like one of the calipers was sticking, ugh. Once backed out of the driveway and into the street, the car died and has no fuel pressure again, wtf!

So with a sticking caliper and a car sitting in the middle of the street I attempted to push it back into my driveway and got about as far as blocking the sidewalk. Good enough.

At this point I just had to laugh, all these issues feel comical by now. With my wife's help I was able to get the car back into the garage and onto the lift. I'll take a look at the brakes tomorrow but the new Bosch fuel pump feels like it's seized, same as the last one.

I don't know why and can only speculate that having an 1/8 tank of fuel and cycling the key probably 50 times since whenever I got the pump, made it want to die. It wasn't having consistent fuel flowing through it and maybe it over heated? Thoughts anyone?

It has a one year warranty so I'll reach out to them to get it replaced tomorrow.

Gotta love this hobby.

Until the next time!
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Old 05-27-2020, 06:57 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #123 (permalink)
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Crap in tank is killing the pumps. Pull it and clean thoroughly. So much easier with a 911 than a 924/44/68, although that nugget is apropos of nothing other than a nod to my own project. The "chain technique" can work well but don't bugger-up the plastic swirl pot near the outlet. A fundamental thing to resolve now, and at least by those pumps expiring, hopefully your injectors haven't suffered. If you have a local radiator shop who'll dunk it in their big tank of nasty chemicals, that is money well spent.

Best of luck, John
Old 05-27-2020, 07:31 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #124 (permalink)
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Re: fuel pump; could also be something gunky in the return lines that's killing your pumps, saw you bought a brand new Dansk one way back when so it can't be that. I've been solving fuel/ignition problems with a fuel pump that I've had in my car since October, it's a Bosch, and it starts pumping on the key; no complaints/problems from it yet.

Re: the entire energy of this build; DUDE! You're a machine, keep killing it! I just bought my 911 in Long Beach last year and I've been doing little projects here and there (the first big one was a valve adjustment, which took me 16+ hours, not a "natural" mechanic even though I have a Mech E degree) and the level of skill you've built on projects over the years is inspiring. I'm 25, and aspire to these levels of at-home mechanic work. Keep up the awesome commentary, loving the story and all the best!
Old 05-27-2020, 08:43 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #125 (permalink)
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Thanks for your thoughts guys.

Yep, it has a new Dansk tank and I blew out the feed line but not the return line because I had ~8 gallons of gas in it at the time and there wasn't a good way to block it from pouring gas out. I'd be surprised if a small amount of water would make such a difference but there are weirder things that have happened.

This time around I'll drain all the gas out (has ~1/8 tank), blow both lines out, and replace with fresh gas.
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Old 05-28-2020, 08:59 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #126 (permalink)
 
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This is better than any reality show! Dude, you rock! I have tremendous respect for you, and your amazing wife. Keep going, this is going to be an outrageous accomplishment.
Old 05-28-2020, 01:08 PM
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Awesome progress and man, that color is fantastic. I'm in the same shoes as you a couple weeks ago..building the wiring harness for my SC with Clay's kit. I lay awake trying to simplify what I'm needing to do.

I just looked at your business website. My parents live in Cedarburg! Did you used to drive a white S4? I had a buddy in college that bought some BBS wheels from a guy named Gabe with a S4. That you?
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Old 05-28-2020, 02:59 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #128 (permalink)
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You're absolutely killing it, Gabe.

With regards to the fuel pumps dying, how about buying a few feet of hose and using that in place of the stock suction hose from tank to pump and install a large filter? It won't work for driving, but it'd work fine on the lift.
Let the car run like that for a while to filter out any isht that's gotten into your fuel system, or just run the pump. You'll get the same result and hopefully prevent the untimely death of another pump.
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Old 05-29-2020, 04:43 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #129 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lonestarvendors View Post
This is better than any reality show! Dude, you rock! I have tremendous respect for you, and your amazing wife. Keep going, this is going to be an outrageous accomplishment.
Haha, thanks! All I need to do to get it on the road is get this damn windshield in. (well that and get it registered...)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpgroth View Post
Awesome progress and man, that color is fantastic. I'm in the same shoes as you a couple weeks ago..building the wiring harness for my SC with Clay's kit. I lay awake trying to simplify what I'm needing to do.

I just looked at your business website. My parents live in Cedarburg! Did you used to drive a white S4? I had a buddy in college that bought some BBS wheels from a guy named Gabe with a S4. That you?
Thanks Josh! You'll get through the wiring phase. I'll give you some thoughts on your thread. It's generally simple and Chris had some great advice for me. Work on one circuit at a time and eventually, you'll have it all done.

Yep, I owned a white B5 S4 while living in Milwaukee! I sold the BBS LMs I had to Victor and as far as I know, he still has them. I grew up in Cedarburg and my parents still live there (for now, they're moving to West Bend in the next couple months to be closer to my sister who's pregnant with twins, which will make 4 kids total). Small world!

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisbalich View Post
You're absolutely killing it, Gabe.

With regards to the fuel pumps dying, how about buying a few feet of hose and using that in place of the stock suction hose from tank to pump and install a large filter? It won't work for driving, but it'd work fine on the lift.
Let the car run like that for a while to filter out any isht that's gotten into your fuel system, or just run the pump. You'll get the same result and hopefully prevent the untimely death of another pump.
Hey Chris, I think you're right in that debris is what may have killed the last two pumps.

I drained the entire tank into a clean five-gallon pail (expecting there to be like 2 gallons left, it showed I had a 1/8 tank on the gauge) so I could install a prefilter and blow out the return line.

There ended up being almost 4.5 gallons left in the tank, good to know how low you can get this thing prior to filling it up! The gas in the pail sat while taking care of those tasks. I popped the cap off the pail to refill the gas tank and there was a decent amount of debris at the bottom of it:



I don't think this is a permanent solution but it should work for a few tanks while I figure out a different pre-filter. The Dansk tank doesn't have a filter built into it like the oem tank. I've heard several people that had no issues with not having a pre-filter, obviously, I did. IMO, it's worth it to spend a few dollars adding a filter to it to avoid killing your pump prior to putting any gas into the car.




I also finally got a windshield! Yay. Installing it, not yay.



Using a Uro seal:


New trim installed



I had two helpers trying to install this with me and the inner lip of the seal just doesn't seem to go far enough over the windshield lip. I need another 1/8" around the whole seal and it would be better. Does anyone have any tips?

I've read through a few threads that state that the proper installation and location of the trim is really important to getting the seal to be in the correct spot. There were a few people that recommended a few taps with a wooden wedge/hammer. That might be what I try today.

We also tried starting the rope at both the bottom and at the top. We had the best luck starting at the bottom. Is there any wisdom as to which way is best?





And lastly, a picture of the full car since it's been a while... It's funny that the car looks like it sits "high" in pictures but nearly perfect in person. Those Fuchs I have are 16x7&9 with 225 and 245 tires. I'll do a test fit with them at some point to see how they fill out the wheel wells.
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Old 05-30-2020, 06:02 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #130 (permalink)
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Looking good!
When we installed my windscreen, we started at the bottom center and worked our way right about halfway up the A-pillar and then went and finished the bottom until halfway up the other A-pillar. Then back to the first side around the next corner...but not to the middle, then the other corner all the way to the middle, and then pulled them together.
I think the secret sauce was once we got around the two bottom corners, we (while applying inward pressure) also pushed edge-wise down to fully seat the seal at the bottom. That made the top corners much easier and the whole thing come together. It took us three attempts to get it in and sorted.
*I have not verified that it's water-tight. So it's not at all impossible that mine isn't as well-installed as I think it is.
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Old 06-01-2020, 04:32 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #131 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisbalich View Post
*I have not verified that it's water-tight. So it's not at all impossible that mine isn't as well-installed as I think it is.
Definitely recommend 3M Glazing Compound to put this worry to rest. It's not a glue and it doesn't harden, but it does fill up the spaces that the water might like to use to get into your window channel (or interior). Less than $20. Good stuff.
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Old 06-01-2020, 12:18 PM
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Looking great Gabe!

Regarding your fuel pump problems, I saw on a recent post that new Dansk tanks have a protectant inside them that must be remove or it will "destroy your carburetor".

Might be worth looking into (towards the bottom of this post) -

Need some input -> Problem with 3.2 transplant going lean and misfiring after two min
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Old 06-01-2020, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by chrisbalich View Post
Looking good!
When we installed my windscreen, we started at the bottom center and worked our way right about halfway up the A-pillar and then went and finished the bottom until halfway up the other A-pillar. Then back to the first side around the next corner...but not to the middle, then the other corner all the way to the middle, and then pulled them together.
I think the secret sauce was once we got around the two bottom corners, we (while applying inward pressure) also pushed edge-wise down to fully seat the seal at the bottom. That made the top corners much easier and the whole thing come together. It took us three attempts to get it in and sorted.
*I have not verified that it's water-tight. So it's not at all impossible that mine isn't as well-installed as I think it is.
Haha, just wait until you read this update.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RDM View Post
Definitely recommend 3M Glazing Compound to put this worry to rest. It's not a glue and it doesn't harden, but it does fill up the spaces that the water might like to use to get into your window channel (or interior). Less than $20. Good stuff.
Sounds like a good idea for those seals that may not be perfectly fitting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Solamar View Post
Looking great Gabe!

Regarding your fuel pump problems, I saw on a recent post that new Dansk tanks have a protectant inside them that must be remove or it will "destroy your carburetor".

Might be worth looking into (towards the bottom of this post) -

Need some input -> Problem with 3.2 transplant going lean and misfiring after two min
Thank you! I don't recall there being a pamphlet in the box but you never know. That would totally mess things up.

We'll see how this filter works out.

-------------------

On Saturday I messed around with the trim a little bit more and tried rotating it within the seal to get it to stick out more in two of the corners. That helped a little bit, but not enough to get this damn thing seated... More on that later.

A month or so back I bought a set of gold 15x7/9 minilites from Bravoaloha. They had 225/45/15 and 275/35/15 Hoosier R7s mounted on them. My plan was to burn them off at the track, whenever I get there, and then mount some sticky street rubber instead so I can use these as my regular wheels. At some point this weekend I realized that I could just dismount the hoosiers, have them stored in the garage, and then mount them up whenever I want.

I'm a big fan of Toyo R888rs but they don't come in sizes that flatter wide 15" wheels. Nankang has a newer 100tw tire called the AR-1 that has been getting some really good reviews and they happen to come in 225/45/15 and 245/40/15. The problem is that I could only find two places that sold them in the US. Somewhere in New Jersey and I think the Chicago area. It seemed crazy to me that there wasn't anyone in Los Angeles that carried or sold them, so I just shelved the idea for a later date.

Over the weekend I started looking at the tires again and was considering shipping them when I happened upon a place called R-Compound USA that's in Whittier which is about a half-hour away on a good day (which with coronavirus, traffic has been great). I gave them a call, they had them in stock, and I made an appointment for 4:30 that Saturday afternoon, f-in WIN!

The guys at the shop were great and it was nice to chat with some fellow enthusiasts. They also shot some beauties:



Loaded up in my truck for their trek home:



These are significantly shorter than the 225/50/16 that were on the car already so this should make it accelerate quicker, even though I have no idea how quick this car is anyways. They're more similar in height to the 275/35/15 Hoosiers






These look absolutely bananas mounted onto the car! I'm in love. As you can see I was also able to get the windshield mounted...





On Sunday morning I had the bright idea to remove the trim/seal and line the window up in the frame to see how the gaps were. I also measured the diagonals. If you recall, there was a tree that hit at the top of the passenger a-pillar. I was always convinced that the result of that impact was the dent on the roof buuuuut, no. The diagonals didn't measure out the same. Shiiiiiip, I spent about 5 minutes thinking about what to do before I decided to go to harbor freight for a heavy-duty ratchet strap.

As you can see below, I made my own frame puller

Strap + Tree + Force = straightened pillar/roof

The window was incredibly easy to install once things were straightened up. Good to know for the next one.



At this point, what I need is to get the car ready for the Brake and Light inspection. I drove it around the block after getting the windshield in and the brakes are still not that inspiring.

For the light inspection, all lights and adjusters need to be operable, lenses can't have any cracks, gauges, and dash lights need to work, etc. My headlights, turn signals, brake lights, running lights, and reverse lights work well but I'm not sure if the fog lights work. At the moment my clock lights up without the lights on and shuts off when the switch is turned on. My hazard switch doesn't seem to work, probably a result of the flood. I'll ask about these things needing to be fixed prior to scheduling the appointment.

I'm also planning to rebuild all the brake calipers. Hopefully, that will solve my braking issues.

Until the next time.
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Old 06-02-2020, 08:17 PM
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Amazing build .. you got me looking for minilites now


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Old 06-03-2020, 04:08 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #135 (permalink)
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Holy ship indeed.
Tweaked roof will definitely make it hard to get a windscreen in.

Glad you got it sorted and excited for some video of this thing ripping around.

I looked at those tires at PRI last year and the distribution was abysmal. I think the Chicago outfit is Touge Factory IIRC. They were like, "You want to put them on a what?" I'd forgotten all about them when it came time for tires on my CCWs. I'm interested in some feedback on wet road traction.
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:31 AM
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Best update ever. You and Chris are some most amazingly practical dudes.
Old 06-03-2020, 05:05 AM
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This thread introduced me to the Nankang AR-1s.... did some reading... they appear to be a better tire than the R888r, which I currently have and am not a fan of.

They will be my next choice
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Old 06-03-2020, 07:07 AM
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This thread introduced me to the Nankang AR-1s.... did some reading... they appear to be a better tire than the R888r, which I currently have and am not a fan of.

They will be my next choice
Going off on a tangent. What is it you do not like about the R888R?
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Old 06-03-2020, 07:43 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #139 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by romango3 View Post
Amazing build .. you got me looking for minilites now
https://www.minilitewheels.us/styles

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Originally Posted by chrisbalich View Post
Holy ship indeed.
Tweaked roof will definitely make it hard to get a windscreen in.

Glad you got it sorted and excited for some video of this thing ripping around.

I looked at those tires at PRI last year and the distribution was abysmal. I think the Chicago outfit is Touge Factory IIRC. They were like, "You want to put them on a what?" I'd forgotten all about them when it came time for tires on my CCWs. I'm interested in some feedback on wet road traction.
That may be a while considering it doesn't rain here often in the summer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixed76 View Post
Best update ever. You and Chris are some most amazingly practical dudes.
Haha, I consider that a compliment.

----------

I rebuilt all 4 calipers yesterday, made/replaced a brake line I messed up, and bled the brakes.

For the life of me I can't get the air out of the system. I initially used my Motive power bleeder, did that twice. Then had my wife help out pumping the brakes, also did that twice. The second time using the pump the brakes method I went around the car three times. Within two pumps it removes all the air bubbles but when your circle around the car and come back there is a lot of air again.

What do you guys think? Bad master cylinder?

I also started to diagnose my wipers. The car arrived with the wipers in the up position and I never thought much about it until I got the car running/driving and wanted them to go back down. None of the positions on the switch work. I checked to make sure that the connector was receiving power and it is, as well as power on each terminal with each part of the switch in the on position.

What do you guys think? Dead wiper motor?

New seals and dust shields





Made a new line for the front driver brake caliper


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Old 06-03-2020, 12:47 PM
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