ROW SC Electrics working but no start :mad:
 

Hi
I started the car midweek and it worked fine, went to start it today and nothing beyond the electrics works. Car just had a new battery.
When i turn the key the Gauges work, Battery and alternator light turn red but there is no fuel pump whine or ignition of any sort. Two years ago i switched the CDI to MSD streetfire & red coil.

ANyone have any idea whats going on ?

And it won't crank over, right?

And it won't crank over, right?

Yes exactly. Electrics go on, but nothing else.
Relays all seem seated right.

Confirm thAt the starter/ solenoid is good. Jump from where battery positive attaches to starter to the solenoid to make sure it works you can go across it with s screwdriver if you can access it. Make sure to avoid grounding to the body unless you like light shows. If you’re good then work back from the solenoid wire to find problem. Divide and conquer is the old saying.

I have a similar issue. 78SC My post is right after this.

I have the high torque starter. My multimeter says I have 12.9 V at the starter spade where the big black wire attaches. To test the solenoid, do I jump the blue covered solenoid spade directly to the starter spade?

How can I easily test the ignition switch to see if it is the cause?

Do you hear the starter trying to turn the engine over?

If you jump pins 87a and 30 on the fuel pump relay you should hear the fuel pump whine.

A possibility is the ignition switch. When I bought my car the mechanical part of the ignition switch was worn out. The key was turning but not engaging the contacts on the electrical part. It’s not uncommon as the cars get some use on them.

Testing to see if it is the switch is a pain in the butt, so I’d rule everything else out first.

Here’s how to do it. The ignition switch is two halves — the mechanical part with the lock tumbler and the electrical part. The mechanical part is usually the part that fails. To test it you have to get under the dash and separate the electrical part from the mechanical.

Once you have the electrical part freed, you can stick a flat blade screwdriver in the front side and give it a twist. If the car starts, the mechanical part has to be replaced. That involves taking the whole assembly out. Not fun. That was my first project in 911 ownership.

Thanks Tim. I am thinking of converting to a push button start. Anyone have detailed instructions on how to accomplish that and recommendations for a kit?

[QUOTE=tirwin;10426380]Do you hear the starter trying to turn the engine over?

No, there is nothing, no click, no fuel pump whine. I had the ignition switch replaced a year ago whe i went to MSD.

Im going to replace all the fuses, but DK if he starter is dead. One thing i noticed was a slightly lumpy idle almost as if i had the oil cap off.

Could it be a dead alternator ?

Have you checked battery voltage?

Yes. Its brand new.

If you had a bad alternator, then the battery wouldn’t be recharging.

To test the fuel pump, turn the key to the last position before start and jump pins 30 and 87a at the fuel
pump relay. Does the fuel pump whine? It should.

To check for power at the starter, there is a good explanation here (post #10).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1026638-79-sc-starter-woes-help-please.html#post10426393