Help - Tips on removing sway bar from a-arm?
 

Next problem I need advice on from the group.

OK, castle nut is off pass. side...a-arm is disconnected. I'm having a bear of a time getting the sway bar out of the bushing on the a-arm. I've disconnected the two brackets on the sway bar but no joy

Any tips on getting it off?

Thanks.

Dave

Did you remove the castle nut from the ball joint to remove the A-Arm? It would be far easier to remove the swedge bolt and nut tap it out and seperate the shock tower from the spindle. Unless you were planning on replacing the ball joints? Anyhow, the best recommendation I have to get the sway bar out of the rubber bushing is brute force. There is no gentle way other then forcing it back out the way it was put in. It may off been easier to remove with the A-Arm attached and then you can lever against it with breaker bar, etc. What is your goal? Sway bar change? I can hopefully help you out if I know what your after.

I'm going to be taking the entire suspension off. I'm putting in new bilsteins, ball joints,turbo tie rods, a-arm bearings, bushings.

What I'm thinking is taking both of the a-arms off with the sway bar attached and then separating them. Putting them back on I'm planning on assembling them and on as a unit. I hope that works.

I'm waiting to borrow an electric impact wrench for the top strut nuts. I'm going to take the other side castle nut off after loosening the top nut.

I'll tell you...I'm learning so much about the car doing this.

Also, I've got several "might as well while I'm here" projects. I'm SLIGHTLY over budget.

Thanks.

Dave

You might want to think about going with a through the body sway bar rather then the one you have. Depends how far you want to go. If you drop the whole suspension, you shouldn't have a problem taking it out. Good luck.

If you want you can drop the a-arms/anti-roll bar/crossmember as a unit...and reinstall it that way too. As long as its all coming out I think it is easier that way. If you want to go ahead and remove the bar separately, disconnect the two mounts, then push one end forward which will make it easier to disconnect the other end when you pull it rearward. A little diluted soap applied to the end of bar you are pulling rearward will help ease it through the rubber. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the tips
 

Guys, Thanks for the tips. Since it's all going to be coming out anyway, I'm just going to take it out and disassemble it on the floor.

For re-assembly I'm going to put it together first on the floor and and then, with help, put the a-arms and the sway bar back in place together.

89911: What do you mean about a through the body sway bar? My rookie status comes out once again.

Thanks.

Dave

I'm not trying to encourage spending on things you may not need yet. A through the body sway bar is the original design for the 911 and was still used on the Turbo's as far as I know. It give better kinematics in function as opposed to the under body ones that came on later cars like yours. Mostly, you have no adjustability with your present bar and you have the stiffest one the make since yours is a late model. Through the body can be multi adjustable in bar diameter and the adjustability of the drop links. Usually the last item done in a suspension change. Torsion bars and shocks are recommended to be done first. Show is a SmartRacing 27mm bar:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/house.jpg

One thing that helps to remove the sway bar is to put your jack under the a-arm and raise the suspension closer to normal ride height. When the suspension is "drooping" the sway bars are very difficult to get out of those bushings. Raising the suspension like this really helps getting them back in, also....

Mike

Since your taking the a-arm off, wait unti then. The sway bar will slide right out. Just remember to reinstall the sway bar w/ new bushings BEFORE you install the a-arm and torsion bars. Installing the sway bar after the a-arm can be done but it is effortless to install the sway bar and a-arm at the same time.