Door moisture barriers

[911Tfan]

Hi I am getting ready to replace the missing plastic moisture barriers in the doors of my 1970 t. How does the door upholstery/hardware come apart and what would I fasten the plastic sheet to the door with? 3m adhesive spray? Any pitfalls to avoid?

[Rich Lambert]

I use duct tape to attach the plastic to the door. Easy to put on, easy to remove, and reuse when a regulator pivot goes south. Plus, invariably, once I get a door all the way back together, I find an extra part and have to take the whole thing apart again. Last time, I forgot the driver's door plastic sheet, which has been sitting on my workbench since spring.

[chris 964]

As far as the weatherproof is concerned use a thick plastic sheet, cut to size, use spray adhesive just on the edges(4") then across the bottom and about 10" up the sides about use gaffer/duck tape. You'll need to make a hole in the sheet for the door pull rod, double up the plastic sheet here.

To check it's fully weatherproof sit inside with the door card removed and get someone to spray the outside with water.

[cole930]

911Tfan,


Bob at APPBIZ has die cut moisture barriers for under $10.00. Our host may carry them. Perfect fit.........


Cole

[Charlie V]

Originally Posted by rich lambert

i use duct tape to attach the plastic to the door. Easy to put on, easy to remove, and reuse when a regulator pivot goes south. Plus, invariably, once i get a door all the way back together, i find an extra part and have to take the whole thing apart again. Last time, i forgot the driver's door plastic sheet, which has been sitting on my workbench since spring.

+1

[m110]

Host has them...cheap, fit perfectly, all hole sin the right spot. I used 3M spray adhesive from body supply shop.

[UrQuattro]

+1

pelican has them. Sells them as a pair for something like 5 bucks or something silly like that. They are pre-cut with all of the necessary holesalready there. I highly recommend getting a set.

I am gonna be installing them as soon as I re-install the speakers that I installed directly on the door. I want to make a spacer so that I can mount them on the outside of the door panel itself. And have a decent looking grill.

Thanks
michael

[911s55]

I personally don't and wouldn't use a "vapor barrier", trapping moisture and condensation within the door panel seems to be a bad idea considering the contents, mechanical and electrical.

David

[RWebb]

the door is designed to use a vapor barrier & has weep holes at the bottom

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by 911s55

I personally don't and wouldn't use a "vapor barrier", trapping moisture and condensation within the door panel seems to be a bad idea considering the contents, mechanical and electrical.

David

The door panel is fiberboard and will absorb moisture in the door cavity and rain dripping down the side window. The moisture barrier reduces/prevents the effect.

Sherwood

[Laneco]

You guys are probably going to throw rocks at me for this...

There is a sticky product that is tar-like on one side and aluminum on the otherside. You get it at home improvement stores. It is in 4", 6" OR 8" width in a roll. It is used to seal up windows in buildings.

I use it across the top edge and a few inches on the front and rear of the panel, leaving the bottom of the plastic panel completely open. It seals very well, is impervious to moisture and yet still easy to get off the door when you need to service it. With just a few inches on the forward and rear of the panel, break those lose, flip the plastic up as it is still adhered to the top, work on the door, drop it back down.

angela

[ossiblue]

I use the black caulking ribbon used to seal glass into thermal windows. I believe it's like the 3M black caulk strips sometimes referred to as Dum Dum (which it really isn't.) Like what Angela posted, it secures the vapor barrier yet allows for removal of all or part for access to the interior of the door and can be resealed as it stays sticky and pliable. It's what many newer cars use to secure the barrier to their doors.

[Reuben911]

I purchased a set of pre-cut moisture barrier plastic. I was wondering, why can't I stick the barrier to the door pad instead.

What's the cons to this idea ?

[pampadori]

Most oe's use "dum-dum" to adhere the vapor barrier sheet to the doors.


you set the plastic out on the table and put the dum-dum on it around the outside edge, leaving a little bit of plastic overhanging the dum-dum. THen transfer to the door. Viola!

[jlex]

Proper way is to use 3M Windo-Weld Ribbon Sealer part #08610. Sold as a 1/4"x15' roll. I believe they also sell a flatter, wider product but the 1/4" should do the trick. Non hardening; remains sticky. Looks like that's what pampadori posted.

[blucille]

and, the proper moisture barrier has a second layer of plastic so you can tuck it into the holed in the inner door-skin, to direct water flow into the door drains, and still protect the hardboard door panel. A seal within a seal.

[Artfrombama]

Glue the barrier to the door.
I used a bead of 3M weatherstrip adhesive along the top of the top of the door/barrier. Used the old door card retainers to hold it in place until the glue dried. You still need to reach inside the door and tighten a nut that holds the armrest after the door card is in place so don't glue the barrier in at the bottom.

[OsoMoore]

I've always used a folded-over black trash bag with black duct tape. Not visible from the edges, and takes a few minutes to cut properly with scissors. I've had my doors apart a half-dozen times for various issues, so this strategy has saved me a lot of money.

[nene]

Glue in a can works fine, which I used and have had no problems.

Serge

[jlex]

The trick is to use something that allows you to pull the vapor barrier off later without destroying it. Glue will require you rip up the barrier next time you want to take it off. Use the 3M window stuff and you won't be looking around for more plastic the next time you have to get into the door cavity. The stuff stays pliable and sticky.
It's also great to hold screws and bolts in place on a screw driver or socket when working in difficult places where they're likely to fall off and get lost. I keep a bit of it in my toolbox and use it frequently to keep from losing fasteners.