Replacing rear quarter windows: What's the best way to cut Lexan?
 

Also, if anyone has any pointers on replacing the glass/Lexan in early pop-out quarter windows, I'm all ears. Is there a way to minimize the stress of dealing with those seals?

I've been told a jigsaw with a fine-tooth blade is best. But I've also been told to use a multi-tool.

I have some hazy vent and quarter windows -- and enough material on hand to do this correctly just once. :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1558464456.JPG

Waterjet... :)

I'd use a bandsaw. Leave the protective plastic on till done. Then touch up with a disk sander or file. A portable jig saw would work as well.

As long as you file the cut edges to eliminate the rough or sharp edges AND the thickness of the lexan matches the glass it should be no problem installing it.

Lexan scratches just by looking through it, I would go with acrylic, esp for a side window.

Mcmaster sells jig saw blades intended for plastics, they clear the chips without melting the cut edge. Worth every penny.

Did I just give advice to Jack Olsen :eek:;):D:D

I used Macrolon.....cut with bandsaw. Had no real issues installing in rear quarter pop-outs.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1558467768.jpg

I've just used a jigsaw with a fine blade in the past. Bandsaw would be nice option too if you've got one.

What I've got isn't branded Lexan. It's from McMaster, and they call it 'Scratch-, UV-, and Impact-Resistant Polycarbonate.' I wish I'd known about their blades. :)

I used Macrolon.....cut with bandsaw. Had no real issues installing in rear quarter pop-outs.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1558467768.jpg

I've never done these before. Is it possible to pop the piece in, if I reuse the old seal, or do I need to disassemble some of the frame so it can slide in?

Jack, I used the same Polycarbonate sheets from McMaster. I’m fortunate that their HQ and primary distribution center are just 30 minutes from home.

I cut it with Bosch 21 teeth per inch bi-metal blades in my Milwaukee cordless jigsaw. Worked flawlessly. I also used 2 layers of blue painters tape along the cut line for extra scratch protection even with the protective film still on both sides. I just cut very slowly, had to blow off the cuttings from the surface, the blade does a such a good job of self cleaning that it would obscure my cut line mark every few inches.

Can't offer thoughts on installation, mine are installed in 993 seals, not pop outs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1558475134.jpg

You have to disassemble the frame. It's been a while since I did mine, but IIRC there are small screws that hold the front straight piece on. I had no problem re-using my seal, but that was years ago.

Probably too late for you, but I used tinted plexi on my car.

I highly recommend the Bayer Makrolon sheet material.

Best way to cut this (other than waterjet) is to use your previous window as a template (or use it to make a soft MDF template), double-stick-tape the template to the sheet, and then use a router table and bearing bit to trace/cut the new window from the template.

Always have used a jigsaw with a fine tooth blade and always worked well. If I had a bandsaw I would have used that.

Cheers

Scratch resistant can be either 1 side or 2 side. Not sure what what they sell but the masking should be labelled. Also the scratch resistance is just a very thin coating. Still need to be careful with it.

The best stuff we have used over the years when cutting our own windows is Lexan MR10 Margard. Scratch resistant on both sides and quite durable.

Cheers

hmm.. haven't tried to cut Lexan on my laser yet....

[edit] nevermind. Lexan laser cuts like crap.

As Trackrash stated, disassembly required...... It worked well with factory seals.

I would bet if you called a few plastic specialty shops you will find one with a computer controlled router. We have a local company that can just scan the old part, clean it up a bit, and cut that shape from any sort of plastic sheet you want. They would leave the paper backing on the plastic so all you have to do is peel back the edges past the rubber seal, install the window, and then finish the peel.

We used to have custom cut pieces cut by them all the time for big display booths at conventions.

Did this years ago and used Margaurd Polycarbonate. I made rear quarter panel, side roll-up and front wing quarter windows. They lasted for about 10 years before needing replacement. Careful cleaning when dirty. Make sure they are very wet before wiping dirt off. I had more issues with UV crazing over time than direct scratches.

Tape the edge profile.
Lay on a pillow or soft surface. place old window on top. Its curved so you want to account for the curve by allowing PC to recess into the window shape.
Trace profile.
Use fine blade to cut to outside of profile line.
Use belt sander to trim into line.

Assembly, remove old seal from Quarter window frame. \
There are 2 screws top and bottom. Remove the screws and slide out vertical frame section from rear curved frame section.
Slide out glass and glass seal.
Install seal on PC "windows"
slide into frame
reinstall front vertical section and secure screws
install exterior seal. Cuss and swear and complain when it doesn't fit into channel
Eventually get seal installed.

Put back in the car.

I used to cut polycarbonate on a router table with a pattern bit and a template of 1/2 inch plywood taped to the plastic. You just have to make sure you keep the workpiece moving or it could melt. Makes a nice clean factory-looking edge with no trim or sanding required, unless you melt it;)

You can do it by hand unless you're in the biz. Use the recommended jig saw blade and cut close to the line. Then use a belt sander, drum sanders and files to trim/finish to size/contour. The edges don't show so they don't have to be polished. And of course, protect both sides until it's installed. Take extra care when cleaning to reduce scratches.

Sherwood