Did you pull the engine? Any car sitting for 25 years needs an number of things looked at, including clutch, flywheel, etc.
As for engine, you'll not likely get any accurate data on it until you pull it out, put on a stand, strip to the long block and go thorough all the proper diagnostics.

As for a build, either go stock with CIS, top end only if the studs are intact and there's no metal debris in the bottom of the cases, or get ready to spend. This'll run you $5-7k depending on if CIS is salvageable and what timing chain tensioners you have/need.

When you split the cases you'll release tension in them and 90% of the time they require line boring to get back to spec. Once you're this far in the price goes up to $20k plus depending on intake system, exhaust system and... if your cases are usable. The build I was planning was $25k (2.8, EFI, cams, headers,) and that was all to gain maybe 40hp. I decided to leave the 911 stock and buy a 914 race car for half the money...
For reliable hp the smart move is a 3.2 swap with headers and a chip.

Nope. Haven’t pulled the engine. Have tried to avoid a rebuild due to the costs you mention.

Update on the questions above. Valve covers now back on. Positive side, number 2 now has 100 psi compression. Negative side, I scoped it and see clear evidence of piston hitting something, assumed to be valve. Some slight scratches on cylinder wall.

If it now has 100 psi, it wasn't the valve hitting the piston. Make sure that all of the screws in the airbox are still there and if you have a cold start tree, check those screws too. Once it awhile one would fall out and drop in a cylinder.

Ok. I’ll try to fish a magnet in there.

I salute your diligence.

2.7 rebuild
 

Put some seafoam in the gas tank. That will clean up any old fuel that has turned to varnish and gummed up the passages.

Beware of armchair experts on here who hide behind silly Porsche engine names trying to tell you to get $2 or $3 thousand dollar machine work on that mag case. Especially the ones who like to spank other men!:eek:

These are not cheap cars to work on. The good news is once done correctly they are very durable - especially when smog equipment is removed.

You're nibbling around the edges with this one. Pull the motor and do it right. Even if you can get it to run, it needs any number of consumables replaced - which includes rings, valve guides, etc. For Pete's sake it's 42 years old...

And yo Jess - some latent desires going on there? Ask ANY reputable machine shop - starting with Ollies or CE and see what they say about a virgin '77 mag case. They move when split. And, nearly every thermal reactor engine needs the studs done, which requires a teardown to do right.

Best of luck with your project.

I had a valve on my 2.4L that got stuck in the guide. It didn't sound like the video. It had a definite clacking sound to it. The valve would go down and the piston would hit it & knock it back up. I removed the valve cover & poured some Marvel oil down the valve stem and put some in the gas for a while after that. Seemed to solve the problem because I never had a problem with it after that.

Alright, team, next question... as one thing gets fixed, another issue becomes evident. After installation of the rebuilt fuel dizzy, we now have fuel going where it's supposed to. For example, there's now fuel flowing to the CSV, where there was none before.

So, the CSV is now dumping fuel into the airbox and flooding it when the key is in the ON position. In a matter of 3-4 seconds, theres a nice little puddle of gas in the airbox. When I disconnect the wires to the CSV, the flow of gas stops.

Seems this has something to do with the wiring to the CSV. Have any of you seen this before, and have any clues you can provide?

I think the CSV goes through the thermo-time switch.