Well I get it if you have a stand which locks. Without the locking stand the crows foot is a non starter. Suspect the impact socket does not require a locking stand. I’m going to see if I can find a shop (muffler) to weld a nut on top of my stand fixture from HF.

Then I can go either way.

Cam shaft holder.........
 

Mike,

Aside from the 46-mm crow foot tool, do you have cam shaft holding tool? If you do, all you need is a 4 feet long chain to keep the engine from turning. Use the yoke or a cross bar and place the chain to it. And anchor the other of the long chain to the engine stand near the caster wheel. Adjust the tension accordingly.

If you have the cam tool holder and the crow foot, you could loosen the nut with the motor sitting on a pallet or floor. And you will need additional leverage to your breaker bars. I use two (2) four (4) feet long pipes. One to hold the cam holding tool and the other to the crow foot.

Unless the cam shaft nuts were torqued to more than 300 foot-lb., removal should not be that difficult using the correct tools. Could you take a picture of your set-up with the crow foot and cam shaft holder tools? Are you using a breaker bar plus extension pipes? Keep us posted. Thanks.

Tony

Greatly appreciate your tenacity to help me. I’ve got a P201 yoke coming tomorrow and the cam holder socket should arrive Monday. I’ve a 3 ft pipe for the crows foot and a 2 ft breaker bar for the cam. I think I can extend my breaker bar a bit (with some pipe not sure I need to). I’ll lock the flywheel too. I’ll get assistance to hold the cam center tool/breaker bar.

Should be posting pictures and updates Monday and or Tuesday. I’m not nervous about this but am taking my time to be sure I don’t hear the splat of a flat six hit on my garage floor :eek:. Then I’d have another entry for the dumb things done thread.

Thanks for all the input everyone. I’m sure it’ll be a lot easier putting it back together ;);):D

Happy dance time. Got the nuts off in solo! Used 3 ft pipe on crows foot and P202 on 2 ft breaker. Fastened my engine to my hoist so the stand would go no where. Got a yoke and pinned it to the stand and locked the flywheel. Went relatively easy solo this way. Tricky part keeping crows foot seated while turning the pipe and holding the breaker bar.

Anyway nuts are off.

Ex motorcylce guy here...
Chains stretch from wear, not from force. And chains and sprockets wear together. Impact for removal of cam nuts is what I do. But its your world so do what works best for you!

So this dowel pin in the cam (pictured) which is supposed to fall out per Wayne’s book) How do I get it to fall?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1560265707.jpg

Take a very small screw driver, and tap it with a hammer (a plastic head one would do, but any way to strike mild blows will do)so it goes under the Woodruff key. This may leave small indentations on the key (which seems to be softer than the very hard cam), but you can clean those up with a fine file for the reinstall.

Those keys have a mind of their own, and want to fall down into the engine's sump, or out on your garage floor. Rags in the openings where the chains go into the case are a good idea when manipulating small parts in the chain box.

I used the cutter pliers method. Worked great

When you tighten the 46 nut, you can’t use impact as the cams are cast iron and will break from impact tightening.
Bruce

Yup, thanks Bruce, one of the reasons I decided to get them off with the crows foot. I knew I needed to practice for the install.

And with help from many, the heads/cam holders are off this PM! Woohoo! Exciting times for a first timer!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1560304365.jpg