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Initial setup, rear alignment
I've replaced rear spring plate bushings, indexed both plates to 32.2* (should get me close to Euro height) and have the rear suspension hanging at full droop.
Is there a "baseline setup" I can use to adjust the toe and camber cam bolts while at droop? No engine in the car currently but I want to be able to install the engine and have it driveable enough to get all the major systems function tested. I'd like to get the car sorted, without needing an alignment asap. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1560387722.jpg |
In the past I've just put a tire on, jacked the wheel up until it wants to come off the jack stand, then eyeballed the toe. You'll end up way off with uneven camber and toe out of spec, but if you're only going to drive it a little bit to make sure everything is okay then it's not going to hurt anything.
Unless you're aligning with string method, though, I wouldn't want to go far with it until it's professionally aligned. |
I would set it to max. positive camber and max. toe in, that should be good to drive. You can also verify with toe plates/tape measure and a camber gauge if you want to get closer to specs.
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how much "sorting" are you going to do.
just get it aligned. find a tire shop that has done porsches and take it there. its usually about $80. just ask the guy if he has done them. |
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I'll probably end up doing a string alignment early in the sorting process. Too many possible variables (corner balance, height etc) to want to pay good money for an alignment at this stage. |
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I've seen several threads about "rear alignment maxed out" just couldnt remember which direction was common. I'll start with max toe and camber, then proceed to a string alignment. |
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Car's been off the road, partially dismantled for ~ 15 years. I've replaced engine, tranny, brakes, suspension bushings, bearings, rod ends etc. I'm hoping for a short 'sorting' but planning for a project... |
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