That seems unlikely unless a oil hose blew. Go pour a gallon of water on the concrete floor and see how much fluid that is. A quart of oil would be the size of your car if not bigger on the concrete.

Whatever the amount, it must be a large leak. I doubt it is just from seals, I bet it is a hose with a hole.

Find the sources of the leaks before you pull the engine. That way, you have a list of locations to address. For example, the oil pressure sender and/or warning lamp sender at the back of the engine are both difficult to access as well as one likely source. In fact, any leak on the top side of the engine, due to e.g. a misaligned intake valve cover gasket, cracked valve cover, failed cam box hose, other leaking engine sensors, etc. will end up on the floor. Start at the top.

A good technique is to degrease the top of the engine, then after all is dry, run it for a minute or two. Engine OFF, then inspect with a good light. If the top is good, repeat for the lower half of the engine. If the oil leaks are repairable AND the cylinders pass a compression test, it's usually driveable, even with a broken head stud. Just keep an eye on things as the engine won't heal itself.

Sherwood

Still running cool as before, maybe even cooler. Seems with less oil, the entire volume gets cycled through the engine oil cooler faster. Pressures are the same as before. Seems like a pretty fail safe system (leave it to those clever Germans).


Joe
87 on 5qts

nailed it!! 100%

So now you know why I find 5 qts so appealing.


Cheers,

Joe
87 Carrera on fixed limited income