Tips for Engine Re-seal required (Heads)
 

Hi all, I am in the midst of a restore on my 1987 911 cabrio and now that
the weather has warmed enough here in the Great White North I started the
engine portion. The lower end is fine with only 70,000 miles and the
heads look great too, however I had horrible oil leaks and decided to tear
things down for a re-seal.

I do not plan to split the case however I need to know some
recomendations.

The heads will be sent out to check valve seals and seats as well as have
brass inserts installed for the spark plugs, (threads were stripped due to
previous owners maintenance neglect) Is there anything else that needs to
be looked at here?

Head Studs are all fine... would an 87 engine require new head studs?

Tensioners look good and alternator was replaced not too long ago also
have the updated head temp sensor... anything else to look at while I have
things torn down?

Any recommended sealer to use with the gaskets for the head job?

Any other pointers will be accepted at this point.

Aaron Sudds
1987 911 cab, 924S for sale and 944S for sale
Windsor, Ontario
atsudds@cogeco.ca

Corrosion is what kills the lower studs on these motors. If your studs aren't rusty you are probably fine. Send your heads to someplace that knows 911 heads, not Chevy, not Bug, etc. Gasket go on dry. I use Loctite 518 for the cam tower to head seal. There is more to this than can possibly explained with Q&A on the list. Get Waynes book when it comes out or at least get the Bentley manual.
I've never heard of brass inserts but I don't get out much.
-Chris

I had my heads fly-cut when they were out. They had been loose and they would probably not have sealed well if I hadn't. I'd recommend replacing the exhaust-side studs, regardless of what they look like. The factory steel ones are not much more than $10 each and they don't fail. If I were you, I'd also split the case in order to replace those wimpy Carrera rod bolts. While there, I would pop in a new set of bearings.

THanks for the input, more is appreciated!!

Aaron

Locktite 574. Worked on mine. 45 minute curing time if you're a little slow like me.

Its just sooooooo easy to do rings and rod bearings while you are in there. Nice opportunity to balance the rod/piston sets as well.

You should definitely replace the usual leak suspects - oil thermo cover, oil temp sender seal, oil press sender seal, etc. Wayne's book has 'em all. Buy the book - the pics alone are worth more than the price for what you are doing.

Here's what I have so far, in case anyone is following the thread:

"Hi Aaron,
Typically, if you have the engine out, it is a wise move to just replace
the oil pressure switch (top front of engine) and the oil thermostat O
ring (near the oil pressure switch). Both are cheap and much easier to
change with engine out.

Other things to consider would be:
oil return tubes (no brainer if you're doing a valve job)
cam tower oil lines
front and rear main seals
inspect/replace clutch disc, TO bearing and pressure plate
inspect/resurface flywheel
transmission input shaft seal

As for sealers, I believe Locktite 574 Flange sealer is the current one
for sealing the cam towers (there are no gaskets here). Anywhere their
are gaskets, I don's use any sealer.

The list can be quite long but these are the things I usually end up
doing.
HTH
Jon"

Aditionally I was advised to check and or replace valve guides

And as above...

Aaron

Aaron,
I agree with Jon's advice. 574 (orange cheeze wiz) will work and that is what the factory used but the the 518 (red) will seal larger gaps so it is a little more forgiving.
-Chris

ON AN 87 TAKE A MAGNET TO THE LOWER STUDS, IF IT DOESN'T STICK THEN YOU HAVE DELVAR STUDS AND THEY SHOULD BE REPLACED WITH THE STEEL ONES LIKE THE TOP ROW.

KEITH EPPERLY
87 SLANT NOSE TURBO LOOK CARRERA CABRIOLET