To turn the engine put the gearbox in neutral. Otherwise you’ll be trying to move the car forward with turning the engine. Chances are you’ve got the parking brake on, too, so it will be that much harder.
Use a breaker bar and socket on the nut that holds the pulley onto the fan. Turn clockwise. With plugs out and gearbox in neutral engine should turn fairly easy with breaker bar.

at this point i would remove the starter....and go from here....
Ivan

Good Morning Latin,

I think several of us will be interested to find out what a load-test tells us about the battery, so please post your results!

If the battery is healthy and it still won't crank the starter, then take Ivan's advice and remove the starter. If you can rig up a way to clamp it securely, you can test it on the workbench or send it out to an auto electric shop.

You're doing good! Try not to get frustrated. When I first started doing this stuff, I'd get so worked up that I'd start thinking the whole car was falling apart just to spite me! Don't fall into that trap! Just take it step by step.

Remember, this is supposed to be fun! ;-)

Good day to all...
Again thanks for the helpful advice from each one.

Today:

Took battery to have it checked... asked to do a load test. The guy said the battery is good.
Put battery back in... started to do the engine turn. As advised...but started out with 2nd gear, all plugs are still out. Marked the engine pulley and made sure it turned at least 2 turns. (Do to limited space, I took the advice to put in in neutral and push it back and then 2nd gear and pushed back and forth)
Then just to be sure... did it again in 5th gear (was getting tired)... that went a bit easier... pushed forward, neutral back and 5th gear forward again.

No sound of any kind. I'm thinking that, hopefully, the starter and flywheel were not fully engaged and it finally went in place.... I remember reading something similar on one of the post... read so many, cant remember which one.

So now what? I'm guessing, put spark plugs in and turning the key?
Hopefully someone responds before I'm done with putting back the plugs back in

Also.. I believe this starter does work...since last couple of tries, after cleaning the ground cable at battery... it had a sound of wanting to do something.. but wasnt allowed to... as if it was jammed or ?? But definitely not the old clunk sound of before.
Thanks again

Oh and NO... its not fun hahaha. But when I'm finally able to drive it again

Then it will be fun again. ��

how big was the device used for the load test?

if handheld, maybe repeat at a real electrical shop

if a big cart-based thing, then the battery is good

you could pull the starter out, and see if it works yourself - or take it to a good elec. shop and have them go thru it

you did take the big tranny gnd. strap all the way off and clean, right?

So when you pulled the plugs, did you try the starter? I had a hydrolock on my Ducati, so I just pulled the plugs and hit the starter. Gas gushed out the lower plug hole. Remove the oil cap and smell the oil. Does it smell like gas?

Seems like things are turning freely now, I wonder if that bang you heard was the starter and flywheel getting popped loose and aligning correctly?

If it was me, I would disconnect the fuel pump relay, disconnect the coil wire, leave the plugs out, and just try cranking the engine by turning the key. Just to see if the starter will spin.

Craig

Yeah.. the load test was done with a manual tester.
Havent placed the plugs in yet, was dealing in putting in the new v belt, dont have the special tool, so doing it as best as possible.

Did what Craig mentioned, since it was wondering the same thing about the loud metal bang. Disconnect the relay, unplugged solenoid wire and started the ignition.

YES... It moved the starter quite well and engine I suppose.
So will put everything back in place and test it again

THANKS ALL AND EACH ONE!!!!!
R

Probably all this time engine has been sitting idly, the oil dip stick looks low. I know it had oil and there is no drip....so not sure if I should wait until it runs to smell the oil???
With what little there was in dip stick and as best as I can.. I dont smell gasoline... but again...there was like 2 drops or so in stick

Your problems turning the engine are painful to read, as this is really a super simple task. First off, if you examine the alternator pulley you should see that there are two holes (or is it just one?)around the outermost rim. There is a simple and not expensive tool - the car's original tool kit contains one, #11 in the picture - which hooks into the hole on the pulley, allowing you to use it as a lever to turn the engine.



As noted, you usually need to put a thumb on the slack side of the fan belt in order to get enough tension on the belt to turn the engine from the fan without slipping. Not hard to do at all, and with plugs out should be very easy. But with the thumb method you can turn it.

Or use the big socket on the pulley nut, but again with pressure on the slack side of the belt.

Turning the engine by rolling the car back and forth is, frankly, just nuts. Sure, it works, but that's sure the hard way.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1565124845.JPG

Wait till it's running and warmed up. If it's on the dipstick now, you're fine. Most guys run the oil about mid point on the dipstick when warm.

Hahaha... let's just call it a good day's workout.
I had originally tried turning by turning the alternator nut and squeezing the belt.. but that sucker was tight.
Then did what was suggested...removed plugs out and again.. still tight...that's when I used the 17mm wrench as best as possible to crank the engine.....that's when I heard the sharp metal bang... it was loud enough for me to stop everything.
Then did the car pushing and it seemed easier for me.

So finished putting the belt (which I didnt do a good job at it).. so did it again later on. It is good now

Every thing in place and turned on the engine. Starter sounded different like I read it would... Nice tune to it and stronger....worked well...engine started but it was smoking like crazy... so left it for a bit but turned it off...
Fixed fan belt... turned it again just out of happiness that major ordeal is over.
and left it as is....

Do I let it run longer? I tried accelerating it a bit at engine but seemed to want to decelerate and just doesnt accelerate... 2nd time I did it..almost wanted to turn off. But went back up and sounded ok.. just was blowing white smoke.

Gracias again....
R

If the engine has been idle for a while it will smoke. My car smoked my shop up when I fired it for the first time after the engine had sat for about 3 years. I'd let it run while keeping a watchful eye on it and see if it clears. If the engine sat too long you could have some injector issues. I sent my injectors in prior to my initial start just to make sure they were flowing and balanced.

Ok...
Last time it ran, although not well due to the FPR it was like a month ago or less than 2.
I'll let it run more tomorrow and keep an eye on it.
Thanks
R

Good Morning Latin,

Congratulations! You got the car started! You're doing great!

As for the smoke, like Nick, my engine smokes on start-up after sitting idle for an extended period. Let it run, maybe blip the throttle a few times after it warms up. Or, do what I do, ride around the neighborhood and smoke out the mosquitos on everybody's property. My neighbors love me for it!

Just keep an eye on the engine temps and pressures.

Thanks everyone for helping out all throughout this ordeal

Hopefully I wont bug anymore after this Haha
So started running a bit smoother, still smoking but less.. when i try to "blip" the accelerator a bit.. it doesnt rev up... the opposite, it wants to die out. So I let her be.
The engine idles a bit up and down and then settles.. but I can tell it's not smooth as before.

The oil dip stick shows a high level of oil..and the viscosity is low and there is a smell of gas. So started draining it... engine off.

Is there anything specific that needs to be done prior to putting in new oil? I have used Castorol GTX 20-50 ... but started reading a long post/thread that apparently there are better ones....
Versus reading on and on... what is a good oil that can be purchased at common flaps or walmart?

Do I need to replace my K-M oil filter? Its probably like a couple of years old but havent driven car much..especially the last 3 years.

Thanks again for the advice
Best
R

Have to wonder if you don't have a stuck injector. When it's running do you get a strong smell of gas? You might want to pop over to the 86 911 wont rev thread and subscribe. Almost sounds like you might have a similar issue.

Latin - one of the most common mistakes new 911 owners often make is to read the oil dipstick in the morning after the car sat all night. Or especially several days or more after last it ran. What happens when you turn off the engine is that oil starts to migrate under gravity from the oil tank into the sump of the engine. You don't need to know how, just that it happens. So the dipstick shows low. You add a couple of quarts, and go drive. Now you have too much oil in the tank, and it gets places where you don't want it, smokes, drips, etc. Not apt to be damaging, but not something you want.

To check oil, get the engine thoroughly warmed up by driving it. Stop on a level surface. Pull the dip stick (you can, but don't have to, shut the engine off to do this)and check. That gives you an accurate reading of the level in the tank, anywhere between the two marks is fine usually, but if at the bottom mark maybe add a quart.

Once you do your first oil change on a cold motor you will see how much oil gets into that "dry" sump. You need a pan about as large as you use under the oil tank drain. Running the engine lets the sump pump move the excess oil back to the tank. So I suppose you don't really need to drive it, and it isn't the temperature you need to care about - the difference in volume of hot vs cold oil isn't enough to worry about.

Please continue reading on and on... or this will turn into another infinite on and on oil discussion.

Oil filters are cheap enough so I would change it.