Can you check my jack stand setup?
 

Before I get under here I want to make sure I got this right. I did the front first and the rears are on the torsion bar tubes.

Car has a 935 front end so I can't put the jack stands where I used to.

Any concerns you'd have on this setup?

Thanks and sorry the pics are sideways, wish I could figure out how to fix that too!


Front
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1565912566.jpg

Rear
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1565912575.jpg

Anyone? Suggestions? The front cross member infront of the fuel tank looks solid.

The link below shows lift points for a 2 post lift, but the front lift points it shows can be used with jackstands as well. I have used these points before. I use a hockey puck shaped pad with a slot through the center to protect the pinch weld. Farther down in the link the same type of pad is shown. Your rear points are fine, I use that point all the time.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/688733-2-post-lift-points-pictures.html

I think you are fine. I've not used those style of jack stands, so the slender design is odd to me.

The board up front is fine imho because of the light weight up there.

The inner torsion bar tube is fine but I would only use if I needed to work on the spring plates/torsion bars. It's much easier to put them outboard, but you probably have the 935 rear spring plates. not sure if you can put them on the outside between the chassis and the fender.

When in question put the jack lolipop jack plate in the side jack point and a jack just under it, or put the tires under the car when you work on it.

Get some real jack stands.......those look pretty wimpy to me.

These posts show jacking support locations that work well.

This drawing by Icemaster updates Bill drawing above to show locations for supports (the O's) but you will be hard pressed to put a jack on these points.

Those SCA axle stands will be fine - they are plenty strong enough, all looks fine

Ditto.

The problem is at the base - the square tubing is too close to a "point source" for safety. :mad:

It reminds me of the "widow-maker" stock jacks that come with the cars (I carry a 944 jack).

SCA stands for Super Cheap Auto. What does that tell you.

I thought you were kidding. Had to look it up, nope :eek:

Agree with others, those stands may be fine for gentle oil changes, but I'd not risk my life working on a car under those.

I would not slide under a car supported like this. I can't help but picture everything toppling over the first time you bump, yank, or turn a wrench too hard.

I do not think a 2x4 is sufficient in the front. I believe I have actually attempted this before dropping the front suspension and the board was surprisingly slippery. I would at least increase the width of the board, I think I ended up using a 2x12. Also the jack stands don't appear to grip the board well either. The car up on jack stands with no tire chuck is quite susceptible to shear forces, especially with a light front end.

Those stands also look like they are waiting to crumple.

Is this jack stand already showing damage? It looks like a crease/fold is showing on the base. I think the shadow makes it more obvious.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1565999554.jpg

In addition to jack stands, when I slide under the car I also have wheels/tires and thick blocks of wood positioned such that if all four jackstands suddenly disappeared, the car will fall an inch or two and rest on these 'back up' blocks.

I concur! would rather have other kinds where the weight is distributed throughout the jack base not at the jack base

Yes, always use a backup - spare tire or big blocks of wood timbers


the Esco jack stands look as good as anything I've seen

In the front, if I am not going to remove the front A arm holders, I use those - their roundness fits into the V of a standard adjustable jack stand.

To start the process I run a front tire up on a 2x4, which gives me the clearance with the jack (lowered race car with low front spoiler/valance)to get in there. Jack one side high enough to get a jack under the other side, lower, reposition jack, raise enough for the 2d jack.

This is stable. A jack stand with a flat top isn't going to grip things as well as one with a V.

I think the 2x4 method is OK to use the jack to raise the front so you can put the jack stands on a support point not covered by the wood. Rear wheels can be chocked, or car in gear with handbrake on. Getting under there to change a fuel pump, though, you want good security.

those stands made me cringe just a little when I first saw them.

your trusting your life to that weld at the bottom.

you could weld braces to them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_fqF09QQjc
Our Finnish friend at the Hydraulic Press Channel have tested a few cheap jack and stands. None of which look too promising...

I disagree with your conclusion.

To my way of thinking, they all failed when a load if at least 2x their rated capacity was reached. My take away is that you jack with a decent jack and support with quality jack stands. Be sure you have a back up support system in place as well.

You're right. I watched it without sound or paying much attention to the ratings he showed on the screen. 1 ton = about 8 bar on the gauge.
Doesn't say anything for stability. I have a habit of giving the car a good heavy shake while its on the stands before I slide under the car. I feel like that might be the more likely method of failure. not chocking the wheels or trying to balance the car on too few jack points (like one on the motor only). It really doesn't sound like fun having your chest crushed by a car.