Re torque cylinder heads

[hienz]

Now that my 75 911s engine is still out for transmission nose-one seal replacement, and I like to re-torque all cylinder head. Is it ok just to torque all head stud nuts to specification or should I removed all head nuts and put on new red lock-tie then torque them down to factory specification? Thank you so much in advance for all you opinions.

[john walker's workshop]

Just go clockwise to 23#. They will either pull or not. 2.7s are touchy.

[hienz]

My engine head studs are not yet pulled.

[rwest]

You don’t want to mess with trying to re-torque studs; real good chance to snap one and then you have a mess, an expensive mess on your hands.

John’s suggestion of 23# of torque is just a way to make sure none are snapped or so weak that they will snap soon anyways.

[Trackrash]

Originally Posted by rwest

You don’t want to mess with trying to re-torque studs; real good chance to snap one and then you have a mess, an expensive mess on your hands.

John’s suggestion of 23# of torque is just a way to make sure none are snapped or so weak that they will snap soon anyways.

You won't snap a steel stud, which is what the 2,7s have. Pulling one out of the case, is a concern, however.

I'm not sure I would try to re-torque the studs on a '75, unless it was just rebuilt and had case savers installed.

Not a bad idea to check for loose nuts by gently applying torque to the nuts. If you find a loose one, let us know.

DO NOT put locktite on the cylinder head nuts.

[john walker's workshop]

They all have to be 23#. No sense leaving any loose so the heads flap and leak oil/fuel. Lots of 2.7s are loose and torque up ok. Some damage may already have been done, running loose, but if they can't take a stock torque without pulling, then it's time for a rebuild.