84 3.2 with oil inside distributor and end play

[Classic11]

Hello, I finished my rebuild on my 84 3.2 a few weeks back and put close to 100 miles on the engine with no issue but noticed a tiny oil leak and after tracing it back to its origin it turns out to be coming from the inside of the distributor, not the o-ring but inside. The picture shows the inside of the Dizzy and it runs out of the small drain hole down along the engine. I searched the forum but could not find the answer.

It does not appear to have a seal on the shaft (inside)?
I did not measure my end play but it seems too much i read the spec is up to 0.25mm?
Can the end play cause the leak? Side to side seems ok, not much of a play there.
Does the end play cause other driving/engine issues?
Is there a bushing/bearing part number when i rebuild it?

Thanks in advance.

[ClickClickBoom]

Here:
https://www.************.com/c-37-engine-ignition-distributor.aspx The starred out letters are (p a r t s k l a s s i k . com)
I rebuilt my '84 dizzy due to axial play, one of the fiber shims disintegrated, causing variable timing based on or off throttle.
3.2 Distributor Overhaul...
Actually a 2 banana job, except the pin to hold the drive gear on needs to be peened. Don't be shy hammering the krap out of it, too many hits and it will work harden and become hard and brittle on the end. Do not use the split drive pin included in some kits.
When I rebuilt my dizzy, I bought a spare dizzy for rebuild since my car is my daily driver. I rebuilt my original as well, might entertain an offer for the rebuilt spare if you are so inclined.

[Classic11]

Thanks for the quick response and link to you thread.

I don't want to get the complete kit as i just replaced rotor and cap, all that is new. Is this all i need for the rebuild? The shim kits lists a brass version of the original plastic one. But are there not two plastic ones?

[smadsen]

If your '84 distributor is like my '82 (and I think it is), there is a bakelite type spacer on the shaft that gets brittle and disintegrates allowing about 3/8" of up/down play on the shaft. I found the remnants of mine (the spacer) in the engine case directly under the distributor. I had removed the round strainer gizmo on the bottom of the case during an oil change and scooped the crumbled bits out with a popsicle stick.

During the distributor rebuild I used stainless shim washers to tighten up the shaft float.

[ClickClickBoom]

Looks like you got it all, if I remember correctly. I couldn’t find a axial clearance spec so I just shimmed as close to .005” as I could get, for hot/cold expansion/contraction.
Do yourself a huge favor, after drilling out the smash pin, use a digital camera to record each piece as it comes off.
On install I used my pneumatic rivet gun to smash/peen the pin as a start and finished with a large ball peen hammer. It’s awkward so have a helper hold the dizzyfor the 2 minutes it takes to smash the pin.
Satisfying job, enjoy!

P.S. Don’t forget the felt plug in the center of the shaft. You can remove carefully and clean with carb cleaner. A couple of drops of engine oil at every valve adjust will keep the moving bits above the seal happy.